I sent Keith a text. The machine isn't mobile. If I knew the tip dimensions, I'd make my tool a little more perfect.
2004 700 motor locked up
- Thread starter Leardriver
- Start date
I sent Keith a text. The machine isn't mobile. If I knew the tip dimensions, I'd make my tool a little more perfect.
I've used the puller before, I just don't have one handy, darn it!
What I have should be working. I was hoping you or one of the other tech geniuses had one laying around, and could tell me what the diameter of the tip is.
3/4-16 seems course to me arent most clutch pullers a finer thread than that? i know the threads in the crank are usually a course thread i will go look.Yep your right 3/4 16 it is any thing that will bottom under that bolt should do. why not put fluid under it and hydraulic it off that works really well
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Does that work? I'm not too proud to try anything.
Should I use water, oil, Mt Dew, etc? Just fill the hole and drive the bolt in until I hear the elusive pop?
Should I use water, oil, Mt Dew, etc? Just fill the hole and drive the bolt in until I hear the elusive pop?
Water works. Wrap your puller threads with teflon tape, tip the sled on its side and fill the hole clear up then run the puller in, water will come out the bolt hole initially until you get it started. I through a big rag over the hole thing so it doesn't blow water all over the garage.
sled_guy
sled_guy
If your going to go that way use grease not water it will be a little more clean up but will not leakout like water.
I got the clutch off using my original puller. I think the socket extension I used wasn't particularly square when I was pushing, so it was a touch sideways in the center of the clutch. I put a socket on it to hold it a little more square, and the clutch popped off.
Engine is out, next hurdle seems to be getting the flywheel off without a puller.
I'm so close to opening this thing up and inspecting. Like any job that you haven't done, it would go 3X as fast the second time.
Thanks a ton for everyone's help and suggestions. I have the factory service manual, and it's not very descriptive.
Engine is out, next hurdle seems to be getting the flywheel off without a puller.
I'm so close to opening this thing up and inspecting. Like any job that you haven't done, it would go 3X as fast the second time.
Thanks a ton for everyone's help and suggestions. I have the factory service manual, and it's not very descriptive.
They make tools for pulling things off tapers
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boxster7614
Well-known member
Go down to your local autozone they have a loan a tool program, get a 3 side steering wheel puller. They also have one for sale for like $15, You will need to purchase some extra long M6 bolts to use with the puller. Put some preload on the flywheel with the puller, then apply heat to flywheel and it should pop right off. Just a tip; mark your stator before you remove it so you can put it back in the same spot.
Ok, update time:
Got everything pulled apart. The two crank bearings on the PTO side had the bearing cage disentegrate, so the immediate problem was obvious. Why it happened, I don't know. There was lots of oil present, no sign of excessive heat. The cases look great. No scoring.
Any idea what is involved with replacing those bearings and giving the rest of the crank a clean bill of health?
You guys were great. Thanks again for all of the help. I'm dissapointed with this failure, but after 15 Polaris machines, this is the first mechanical problem,
Got everything pulled apart. The two crank bearings on the PTO side had the bearing cage disentegrate, so the immediate problem was obvious. Why it happened, I don't know. There was lots of oil present, no sign of excessive heat. The cases look great. No scoring.
Any idea what is involved with replacing those bearings and giving the rest of the crank a clean bill of health?
You guys were great. Thanks again for all of the help. I'm dissapointed with this failure, but after 15 Polaris machines, this is the first mechanical problem,
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boxster7614
Well-known member
You are going to want to replace all the bearings. They have to press the crank apart to replace the bearings and true the crank. Send it to over to www.jjmachineryonline.com they do great work and probably the cheapest around. They will put the wide bearing on at the same time just make sure to drill the case out for the oil to get to the new wide bearing.
