Because it is only a high compression head, can and reeds you do not a fuel controller. It is the most power upgrade you can go with out needing one. I didn't want to deal with fuel mapping issues...
1900 miles, rebuild?
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Because it is only a high compression head, can and reeds you do not a fuel controller. It is the most power upgrade you can go with out needing one. I didn't want to deal with fuel mapping issues...
Not trying to hijack the thread I just didn't want to start a new one with the same questions.
Diamond Dave. I thought I saw on Indy Dan's web site that he said Polaris piston's are the best out there. My kid is thinking buying OEM pistons, rings, and gaskets. Would that be better or worse than the MNTK. I am not arguing or being a smart asss. I haven't messed with two stroke engines and know very little. In the end the decision is up to my kid. Thanks in advance for the info Dave, and you too! PPK for the thread.
I apologize for not seeing your questions here until today. I will answer the best I can.
First off, I have the utmost respect for IndyDan and have recommended many customers with Polaris motors to him. I've installed two of his reinforced mono's with MTNTK fix kits. Both have been performing excellent.
His recommendation for the stock piston is IMO more based on his modified cylinder and tightening up of the cylinder wall clearance to the piston. Dan prefers a cast piston. Dan reinforces the cylinder skirts and tightens up the nicasil plating so that the stock piston fits much tighter. This scenario makes the stock 800 CFI much, much more reliable especially if we're talking about a 2013 and newer monoblock.
I am (and have been) a huge proponent of the MTNTK Fix kit. They were the first shop that was able to actually fix the Dragon motor around 2010-2011. A motor that another shop that has been mentioned said couldn't be fixed.
I have installed approximately 25 MTNTK Fix kits since the inception of the Fix Kit. I do always use OEM seals, gaskets, and caged bearings with the kit. I have had 2 of my personal sleds ('09 CFI-4 and '12 CFI-2) crack cylinder skirts with less than 400 miles on each sled. Luckily both were found during off-season teardowns. Proper warm-up's, extra oil didn't matter. On the '09, I used the even thinner cylinder skirt monoblock. That engine is still going with over 4,500 miles today.
The nice thing about the Weisco piston in the MTNTK Fix Kit is it fits a properly honed, used cylinder much better than a stock piston does. And the 3 motors that I have torn down after approximately 2,000 miles each have shown 0.001" - 0.0015" collapse which equaled to a max of 0.007" piston to cylinder clearance. I have measured stock pistons that had in excess of 0.012" - 0.016" with alot fewer miles and have never seen one with less than 0.010".
Someone else asked about using the kit with a PAR head. This kit works great (in fact runs even better) with the PAR head. I would just recommend (and emphasis) that you verify proper squish (which should be done anyway) when you install new pistons in any motor.
As for a fuel controller...the '11-'12's were fat enough with fueling that you can get away with fix kit's, heads, pipes, reeds, etc without the need for a fuel controller. However, 2013's and newer run a much more leaner mid-range than earlier CFI-2's. You can install a Fix Kit in 2013-2015 without a fuel controller BUT if you install a head, pipe, and or reeds, be prepared to possibly needing a fuel controller.
Both my cylinders tested at 100 a couple a days ago at the dealer 5000ft. They told me to run it until spring then we will pull the motor and send it out to get the crank rebuilt, then put a new top end in it. They said they've had way more crank issues then top ends. They are afraid I'll spent money on the top end and then lose the crank. 1300 miles. Hoping it will make it until spring.
What year are you running?
i have a 2012 163, and been debating the hell out of what to do to it- i order weisco pistons the other day and gaskets thinking i will get to check the cylinder tabs for cracking and have good cylinder to piston clearance confirmed, less than 85 bucks each on ebay is cheap insurance against a busted up motor.
cranks live easily thousands of miles for most of us i think from reading here.
i will take my chances on the crank,
cranks live easily thousands of miles for most of us i think from reading here.
i will take my chances on the crank,
My gut said take the chance also but my dealer has done nothing but take great care of me over the years. I have a couple of amazing stories about them taking care of me, going way out of their way to fight for me. Twice with a snowmobile manufacture and once with a trailer manufacture. They totally got me handled all three times. That's why doing consistent business with the same dealer is so important.
If he tells me the crank is a way bigger issue and to rebuild the crank before the top end that's what I'm going to do.
They recommend me risking it until spring.(1300 miles) If it blows I put a short block in it with new top end. If not we rebuild it and make it better for next year. Of course rebuilding will be the cheaper option.
One thing he told me, he feels like people who didn't summarize them properly are very suspect. Mine has always been summarized. The dealer also turned the oil up from the first day and it's had one gal of race fuel dumped in every tank of gas with 5 oz of oil.
They recommend this form the beginning for extra protection. So hoping this all helps it live a little longer.
If he tells me the crank is a way bigger issue and to rebuild the crank before the top end that's what I'm going to do.
They recommend me risking it until spring.(1300 miles) If it blows I put a short block in it with new top end. If not we rebuild it and make it better for next year. Of course rebuilding will be the cheaper option.
One thing he told me, he feels like people who didn't summarize them properly are very suspect. Mine has always been summarized. The dealer also turned the oil up from the first day and it's had one gal of race fuel dumped in every tank of gas with 5 oz of oil.
They recommend this form the beginning for extra protection. So hoping this all helps it live a little longer.
I don't know man, that's great that you really trust your dealer, but that is not the same experience most of all of us have. It's piston and cylinder issues that these engines suffer from, times 5 on engines 2012 and older. You just don't hear about much bottom end trouble.
well i tryed, do what you need to do your the one flipping the bill, read up on the topics here the trend is loose clearance cylinder to piston causing broken cylinder tabs when not taken care of. 2012 is not a fine wine lol
To the op I would compression check if it's good run it with good maintenance and run it till compression goes away then rebuild. Imo
Compression means very little when you are prone to having cracked cylinder skirts and imploding piston skirts.
A motor with cracked cyl tabs cam still make good compression and be ready to destruct all because of no visual check for cracked tabs so for a 2012 pro that's bad advice.
Due process would be to pull the top end off and replace them crappy stock Pistons and fit new ones to the bore,s inspect the cylinder tabs, once a tab breaks off its going to be an extreme bill compared to just checking on the known problem and dealing with it ,
