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166 belt replaced by 383

Went to purchase a new belt today and found out the 166
Is no longer available so I got the replacement 383 put it on
And adjusted the deflexsion And headed out when I hit the
Hills my sled would not hold rpm, so I put my
166 back on and got my rpm's back. Has any one ran into
This problem with the new belt and if so What did you Do to
Fix it?
 
run the -288 belt. Havn't heard much good abou the 383, they are pretty soft (lowers RPM) -288 is the harder version of the -166, if your dealer has a hard time finding it, they were on the '05 440 race sled and also on the new 600 race sled. Best belt for the Rev IMO.
 
383 belt

The 383 belt is 1.5 mm wider and a secondary adjustment probaly would be needed to get the rpm right. longer belt life also because of the extra width.
Terry
 
About the belts - If you can continue to find the stock 800 belt (166) that would be great, however when you go to buy them if you can still find them, try to get to measure them and make sure they are at least 1-7/16 wide.
There is a real good belt from brp, the hard compound xp summit belt 417300377
The 417300288 is a soft compound belt but what makes it act like a hard compound is the aramid fiber difference from all other brp belts. The fiber is harder to bend and creates rpms.
Dooooooooooooooont use the 383 if you can help it.

Confirm that you have the correct belt width (measure) - The belt is supposed to be 1.44~1.5 inches
wide. Some belts with 166 number and white writings are 1-3/8 wide, this will contribute to high system
temperatures from fluctuating rpms and poor belt deflection and only .009” away from the wear limit (100 miles or less left to wear limit)

The 383 will reveal low rpms upon break in.
Then correct rpms for a few tanks of fuel.
Then fluctuating rpms after that until....................BOOM!
what pile of garbage - I F$%^G still can't get consistent rpms with that drive belt and my friendly trail clutch kit competitors will say the same thing if you ask. Example, Billy Howard (howardsinc.net) will tell you to run the 377 with any of his 800 trail kits.

As with my kits too, you run a 383 you are the master of your own disaster.
 
Whoa Joe, Mountain sledding forum here. Ya get lost? haha just kidding, any experience in the hills with the 383? I work for a brp shop in BC and have sold quite a few 383's. Nobody seems to be having issues. Running one right now on my '06 SLP'd 800. 400 Miles so far and she hits 8100rpm and holds through anything I can point it at. If there are issues with certain width's of 383's or ???? I'd like to hear more about it. And it might be a topic of interest at Club right around the corner.

BTW - I used the 288 when we were riding rev's for demo's. On my 06 and 07. Changed a bit more often, but never because I had to, but being an ex-racer and changing belts every race.....8-10 rides is plenty reason for me to keep things working optimum and fresh.
 
Reebster...I don't know how many people you talk to, I do know how many people I talk to & keep a "tally" sheet on issues. I also talk to mountain dealer parts people & mechanics all over the west and hear what they have to say.

I am merely an editor, gathering comments of people who talk to me of their experiences and my own experiences that I test myself - then put into a cohesive whole.

I give out 383's to my "mountain" test guys. two of them would not take them because of their previous experiences, one telling me to "don't waste your $".

The question arises, why is there a 391 belt now to replace the 383?
 
Many of my customers and a few dealers north, and a few south of us. What I was looking for was, what are the issues they are having? Certain belts with lofty width dimensions or compound or???
I'd be interested in what you've documented and your analysis of the problem.

As far as the 391 belt, it's the belt for the '10 800 E-Tec. Maybe I'm mistaken but I was under the impression we rode in the mountains and most of these discussions were Summit related. Sorry for my ignorance if the question was short track related in the first place. I'd still like your opinion as they seem to be working fine for myself and my customers but I see Doo has about 200+ 391 belts right now so should I ship the 383's back and bring in the 391's asap? For my 800 Summit REV customers?
 
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I agree with DJ. My dealer said the same thing about the 383 replacing the 166 so I bought one and put it on my 2006 800 159X. It does not hold rpms. I put the old 166 back on and it ran like it is supposed to. That 166 belt actually lasts quite a while and still runs pretty much the same even when they get quite a few miles. I don't suppose they would take back the 383 and let me apply the $$ towards the 288 as I had heard it is better? I think the dealer has the 288 at $145. I think I am stuck with this 383 unless someone wants to take it off my hands?
 
Tried the 288 this weekend and it acted alot like the 377. Will not hold Rpm's
and horable back shift. What are you guy's changing for clutching to run the 288 ? Winter Brew do you still sell clutch kits for 07's. This is on a 07 159 X.
 
Tried the 288 this weekend and it acted alot like the 377. Will not hold Rpm's
and horable back shift. What are you guy's changing for clutching to run the 288 ? Winter Brew do you still sell clutch kits for 07's. This is on a 07 159 X.

If you had correct rpms with the 166 and now are running a 377 or 288 and observing low rpms then the next best move would be to change the pinweight.

This is no different if you used a 166 and went to carlisle belt, you'll observe about 200 rpms lower. Ok then adjust pinweight or raise clicker number to gain rpms back.

Set deflection and go
 
I have DJ clutch kit on my 07 Summit X and am running the 377. It holds RPM's just fine. I've blown two 383 belts in one day (before the clutch kit) and I won't run them on my sled anymore. I'm gonna try the 288 next to see if I notice a difference between it and the 377.
 
Tried the 288 this weekend and it acted alot like the 377. Will not hold Rpm's
and horable back shift. What are you guy's changing for clutching to run the 288 ? Winter Brew do you still sell clutch kits for 07's. This is on a 07 159 X.


Yes, we have a setup that uses the TEAM secondary. Make sure your RPM issues are truly clutch related, I would say 90% of clutch issues are engine related.....if that makes sense.
 
Pulls hard, will hold Rpm's and backshift good with a 166 ( clicker # 2 ) Put on a 377 and have to go to clicker # 5, will pull Rpm but not hold them on long pulls. The warmer the clutches get the worse it gets. Found similer results with the 288.
 
I would say go through your sled engine management and give it a check over.

commentaries 1 & 2

Also do Hot v. Cold compression check.

A glazed belt will provide quick rpms. A test of this "feature" scour the belt angle surfaces with hot water and green 3M scotch brite so that the anglesd surface has that yellow/green colour revealed again - install belt back on and might end up observing lower rpms for some time, then eventually rpms will be correct again.

Belts harden with age. The harder the belt gets over time the rpms can be quicker. When the belt starts to fail is the material starts to shear, rubber temperature differences. (what I mention here is from gates sae papers)
 
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Pulls hard, will hold Rpm's and backshift good with a 166 ( clicker # 2 ) Put on a 377 and have to go to clicker # 5, will pull Rpm but not hold them on long pulls. The warmer the clutches get the worse it gets. Found similer results with the 288.


I would pull apart both clutches, the '07 is known for bushing (primary and secondary) and roller issues. If ANYTHING is excessively worn it can show those symptoms.
 
Thanks for the replies, just went through clutches. New bushings & rollers in primary. Secondary still good. New motor & exhaust valves. If I through my good 166 back on the clutching is spot on. 8300 on clicker 2 with great backshift. Dealer has no more 166's so I need to make this 288 work. I have heard of a few others having the same results.
 
How many miles on your -288?? Give it at least 50 miles to wear in before making any changes.
 
I am having the same issues, 166 works perfect. I have a new motor in my 07 went through the clutchs and rave valves everthing seems fine but these new belts. If I go back to my last 166 it works perfect.:mad2:
 
Put some miles on the new belt and then adjust pin weight as needed.....different compounds require different setup....this is assuming everything else (wear parts and engine etc....) are all OK.
 
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