'12 rmk pro 600 with inconsistent power fade
- Thread starter t30mg
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Cleaned power valves, replaced rubbed hose, and ran it again.
Even with the track off the ground and no load it will do it.
Just keep the throttle slightly off of WOT and it will scream its heart out. Open it that last little bit and it falls on its face and bogs at 6k rpm.
From idle, pin the throttle and it bogs up to 6k and stays there. Back off a little and it will scream up to almost 8k.
In spite of the bog, it is definitely running smoothly and on both cylinders.
It is like the fuel gets turned down a bit when the throttle bodies open that last little bit.
What gives?????
I can't see it being the fuel filter or clutching because it provides enough fuel for 8k rpm if I just back off the throttle a touch. I think it's reasonable to say that 8k rpm should use more fuel than 6k rpm, given that it is load free in both cases.....
Cleaned power valves, replaced rubbed hose, and ran it again.
Even with the track off the ground and no load it will do it.
Just keep the throttle slightly off of WOT and it will scream its heart out. Open it that last little bit and it falls on its face and bogs at 6k rpm.
From idle, pin the throttle and it bogs up to 6k and stays there. Back off a little and it will scream up to almost 8k.
In spite of the bog, it is definitely running smoothly and on both cylinders.
It is like the fuel gets turned down a bit when the throttle bodies open that last little bit.
What gives?????
I can't see it being the fuel filter or clutching because it provides enough fuel for 8k rpm if I just back off the throttle a touch. I think it's reasonable to say that 8k rpm should use more fuel than 6k rpm, given that it is load free in both cases.....
All this electrical crap now days makes it hard to diagnose these problems.
I had a sled that acted similar to what your explaining. It didn't have all the electronics, so it was easier to diagnose. It was the roller that the primary clutch weight swings against. It stopped rolling, wore a flat spot in it, and RPM was very erratic.
I had a sled that acted similar to what your explaining. It didn't have all the electronics, so it was easier to diagnose. It was the roller that the primary clutch weight swings against. It stopped rolling, wore a flat spot in it, and RPM was very erratic.
Overrev will pull timing and back rpm off to 6.
Doesn't show on the gauge it happens lightning quick in the midrange of the shift.
If you can ease into it slowly and keep it under max rpm how high can you get it?
Doesn't show on the gauge it happens lightning quick in the midrange of the shift.
If you can ease into it slowly and keep it under max rpm how high can you get it?
F
Flying Dutchman
Well-known member
Have you tried checking the throttle lever safety switch?? Remember there are 2 pins to make it work properly. Just worked on a '13 where the hinge pin was sticking and caused very similar running issue. Had to remove the lever to find the small pin hidden in the block. With a small screwdriver, nail, find the pin and see if it moves freely. Can remove the back side (4 screws), spray some electric contact cleaner and see what happens. In our case it was a simple 10 minute fix.
^^^^^^^^^^^ this is my thought also.
Just to eliminate one more thing, stick heavier weights in the primary. My guess is the motor is revving too fast in the midrange. The ECU has a protocol built into it if the crank spins up too fast it pulls polls timing or fuel-- the ECU sees the acceleration rate of the crank and assumes the belt broke. It is trying to save the crank from spinning to the moon.
It is most likely to do this in low traction icy trail situations, it will also do it on the stand with the track in the air.
Can you get full rpm if you ease into throttle and build rpm SLOWLY?
As Sheetmetal Fab indicated, it happens quickly, no check engine light, rpm doesn't overrev in the classic sense of 8500+ rpm, the engine accelerates too quickly. This is one of the reasons the heavy heel weights are so popular on Pros.
In 2011-2012 the "bog" most were experiencing was due to improper weight, traction, or unloading of track on a climb or on/ off throttle situations.
I know back in the day on my 900 when the tps went bad during a day of riding it would run awesome around half to 3/4 throttle but would fall on its face when wide open. Your situation sounds a little like the same thing. I think I would be leaning towards tps issues or injectors.
I had the same problem with my 600-12. In my case it was over rev. Changed weights and the problem was gone.
I also had a similar problem almost identical with my 12 600. Only difference was my check engine light was on and my issue was a combination of a loose egt sensor, poor fuel and I think sticky clutch weights. After I fixed the sensor the light went away, still had the bog a couple times then after 5 minutes worked itself out. That was the beginning of this year and I've put on 500 miles since (sled has 1400 now) no issues at all been running great.
