09 Dragon 800 163 not right

[Eli]

You are at a pretty low elevation and have only 70 and 80 lbs? Absolutely....the fix. My friend is running the PCV and Slp pipe and everything stayed the same....except performance. Do Not put the stock stuff back in. You got lucky-really lucky.

Don't ride it till you do the top end.

 

[rmkboxer]

mine has 120 psi per cylinder. I pulled my clutch today and found that one of my rollers is bad, could not tell till I spun them all. it does not feel right. hopefully I will get the parts and see what happens. if you are running 10-68 polaris weights at over 6000 ft they are to big for the elevation also

 

[modjunkie]

Cylinders 70-80 psi. Cylinders and pistons surprisingly not scored, tops were worn out? I'll check if i got that right, doesn’t make sense, and probably my misunderstanding.

This engine seems to have held-up well with stock pistons.
Was I lucky?
Did I get a good set of pistons?
Are my cylinders perfectly shaped?
Am I the best at warming my engine and running good oil?
Don’t know?

SO with that need to make decision…

· OEM pistons in stock and ready to install. They lasted 2000 miles before…
· “The Fix” is at least 2 weeks out and more expensive.

· “The Fix” gives more horsepower?
· “Will I spend the rest of the year tuning “The Fix”?

· Will the Fix work with a Power Comander V?
· Will the combination work with a aftermarket head?
· What head and Flash to use with “the Fix”?

I have a SLP pipe and think I’d like more power, but I have been riding with flat pistons so new ones will be nice.

If you go stock you are gambling that the next set of pistons will be right. Unless you do the work and make sure that the next set of pistons is in tolerances. There will be no new tuning the fix. I'm currently running 08 flash with slp single and power addicition head with no pcv, and the fix, and have not had a problem. I'm running around 7-8,000 and that could be the differnce between needing a box and not. My stock pistons had 750miles with very little scuffing. Had one small spot on intake side of mag cylinder. I quite measuring on the top side of my stock pistons when the clearance was .016 because i was so mad the skirt torlances were closer at .009. Just guessing that that is what you are seeing also. The stock pistons are not built right and not worth saving that hundred bucks.

 

[harrysmith500]

Put a lift kit on it!!!! Mine is running awesome.

 

[PowderMiner]

Dealer had stock set on shelf and The Fix was at least two weeks out, so upon hearing from the dealer that the pistons and cylinders were not scored. I wanted to ride this weekend so I had him put stock in. He did check the tolerance of the new pistons going in and they were better than recommended.

When I picked it up I looked at the old pistons and the rings were worn, but no scoring on the piston skirts and hardly any "polish". The tops were rough looking.

I guess I’ll be a good comparison gunny pig. 55 (torturous) miles and counting…

Came down to being able to ride while we are having a great spring snow situation and this sled might be my back up next year. If this was to happen when the snow was no good or at the end of the season, I’d have to think about it a little more.

Clutch seems to be fine; I will have it gone through next winter. And 68s are good with this particular set-up for my riding area (not stock, and there seems to be a couple different "local" clutch set-ups), and switched to 66s for West Yellowstone with good results, especially since my engine was probably beginning to loose compression.

A compression tester is going to be my next new tool.

 

[Eli]

Dealer had stock set on shelf and The Fix was at least two weeks out, so upon hearing from the dealer that the pistons and cylinders were not scored. I wanted to ride this weekend so I had him put stock in. He did check the tolerance of the new pistons going in and they were better than recommended.

When I picked it up I looked at the old pistons and the rings were worn, but no scoring on the piston skirts and hardly any "polish". The tops were rough looking.

I guess I’ll be a good comparison gunny pig. 55 (torturous) miles and counting…

Came down to being able to ride while we are having a great spring snow situation and this sled might be my back up next year. If this was to happen when the snow was no good or at the end of the season, I’d have to think about it a little more.

Clutch seems to be fine; I will have it gone through next winter. And 68s are good with this particular set-up for my riding area (not stock, and there seems to be a couple different "local" clutch set-ups), and switched to 66s for West Yellowstone with good results, especially since my engine was probably beginning to loose compression.

A compression tester is going to be my next new tool.

We checked my friends sled the night before the grenade attack. 120lbs. Good compression doesn't meant piston/cylinder tolerances are right. Two weeks is nothing when you are sitting in the bottom of some hole with antifreeze running into the snow. I wish you luck-I think you are going to need it.




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[harrysmith500]

We checked my friends sled the night before the grenade attack. 120lbs. Good compression doesn't meant piston/cylinder tolerances are right. Two weeks is nothing when you are sitting in the bottom of some hole with antifreeze running into the snow. I wish you luck-I think you are going to need it.




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That's kinda an insult to his intelligence. You may need to criticize more artfully.

 

[PowderMiner]

Some gota' have the latest and greatest on their sled and others like to ride them

 

[INDEEP]

mine has 120 psi per cylinder. I pulled my clutch today and found that one of my rollers is bad, could not tell till I spun them all. it does not feel right. hopefully I will get the parts and see what happens. if you are running 10-68 polaris weights at over 6000 ft they are to big for the elevation also

Your pulling 68s below 6000ft? That seems huge.

 

[rmkboxer]

Your pulling 68s below 6000ft? That seems huge.

I am running 10-64's. My opinion also

 

[INDEEP]

I'm running 64s here in Washington too. I'll have to throw in some 62s if I head south. Thx

 

[PowderMiner]

As I understand it, and that is a stretch, you want the most weight you can pull and maintain desired rpms in a good pull. I do realize there are two different trains of thought on this to get similar results… I have gone to a higher # initial angle helix, rather than the lower # (need to get some of the clutch gurus to explain) but that allows me to get a different shift out and pull the bigger weight which seems like more torque to the track.

I let the people who know set it up and tell them if it doesn’t respond the way I want, but I am a heavier rider and like to boondock in the trees and have a second to decide what route to take. All I know is that after reading several months of discussion about clutching on here I went into the shop and threw out some #s and the Mechanic said “how do you know those #s”? And then said “that that was what was discovered with boxes of parts and a lot of testing on the mountain”. I ride 3500-6500k in central Washington. I know there is another set-up that uses lighter weights that must work ok as well.

It also has been mentioned on these posts that a lot of guys are running too light of weights and not getting full shift out or not loading the engine having poor results and engine issues.

 

[clutch man]

clutches

your sled has 2000 miles on a clutch service? is this a rebuild or service?
at 3000 miles your clutch is junk unless at 1500 miles it was rebuilt.
springs.... i replace ever 500 miles. get a new clutch have it set up wright then see where you our.

My sled is acting like it has only 50-70% power to the track. It still ran really good just 4 rides ago. I notice this on hill pulls or really deep snow. It seems like it revs up but the clutching seems “rubber-bandy”. I have SLP pipe, and Clutching very similar to Aksnowriders set-up in the sticky post. The clutch work has about 2000 miles on it so… it might be time for a rebuild. I have over 3600 miles and 2000+ since update so am concerned that I might be on the verge of catastrophic failure.

 

[PowderMiner]

It wasn't the clutching, and it was rebuilt at 1600, then serviced ~1100 ago now.

I am planning on having it rebuilt next season, so it doesn't sit with new springs compressed all summer. Or sooner if something goes bad before the end of the spring snow.

You say new can't they be rebuilt? Or better to start over?