09 700 BD PG problems

[tree climber]

not enough of these 700's boosted it seems like or they just dont post here. mine is terrible off the bottom also but i have low compression head that likely contributes to the problem. so im just gonna mess with springs and weights till i find something that works i hope.

 

[snowman429]

On the boosted 800's from 08/09 there was an updated flash to the ecu that worked best with the BD boost kits. When the top end recalls came out the upgrade included a new flash that gave symptoms similar to yours. Many of us had to go back to a tech with the digital wrench and install a flash that was not the most current. I want to say on the digital wrench has it listed as the "superseded 09" flash. I am not positive on that though. Superdave3 or JKinzer or mountainhorse on here would know. Again, I know this to be an 800 issue for sure but not certain on the 700's.

Might also check your exhaust valves to make sure they are functioning properly. TPS is always a good idea. Made my boosted 08 start on first pull instead of 2nd or 3rd. Good luck man. Hope ya get it dialed. EW

I've thought about the flash thing and wondered about the 700's. I had the TPS check last week, it was good. I've checked exhaust valves, I just got done checking fuel pressure and fuel lines in the tank. I have checked everything i can think of. I would like to find a stock pipe, can and air box and put it back to stock and see how it runs.

 

[theshadowrider]

Is your check engine light still flashing? If so what code is it flashing? Have you checked your compression?

 

[snowman429]

Is your check engine light still flashing? If so what code is it flashing? Have you checked your compression?

Nope check engine light isn't flashing anymore. I took it to the dealer thursday, they checked compression, injectors, tps. All checked out good. I still think it is the control box, I took it to Boondocker and they said it was good. When I have it on the stand and hold it around 5k rpm's it just doesnt sound right. I'm going to run it at the rpm for a few minutes and shut it down and pull the plugs and see what they look like. I've been meaning to do this the last few time I had it in the garge. This last weekend I turned the boost up and ran straight av gas. Runs like a raped ape on the top.

 

[theshadowrider]

Nope check engine light isn't flashing anymore. I took it to the dealer thursday, they checked compression, injectors, tps. All checked out good. I still think it is the control box, I took it to Boondocker and they said it was good. When I have it on the stand and hold it around 5k rpm's it just doesnt sound right. I'm going to run it at the rpm for a few minutes and shut it down and pull the plugs and see what they look like. I've been meaning to do this the last few time I had it in the garge. This last weekend I turned the boost up and ran straight av gas. Runs like a raped ape on the top.

Does it do it consistently, or can you always re-create the problem? Seems like either tuning, or clutching if everything else checks out? Have you adjusted your mid psi? Have you got into the super tuner mode and seen what is in for you 6,000 settings; lo, mid, high?

 

[theshadowrider]

Sorry just re-read the thread to see your bog is between 4000-5000 rpm on engagement correct? Once you are moving does it bog? If you clean it out then slow down but keep moving then power up does it bog? Does it seem to be a lean bog or a rich bog?

 

[snowman429]

Does it do it consistently, or can you always re-create the problem? Seems like either tuning, or clutching if everything else checks out? Have you adjusted your mid psi? Have you got into the super tuner mode and seen what is in for you 6,000 settings; lo, mid, high?

I have unlocked the advance mode and played with the upper rpm ranges. I have lowered the psi and raised it. It does it all the time. After riding for a while it seems worse. I pulled the clutches off again and went through them all checks out. Clutch alignment is good. I check clutch and belt temps after a long pull and they were warm but not hot.

 

[theshadowrider]

I have unlocked the advance mode and played with the upper rpm ranges. I have lowered the psi and raised it. It does it all the time. After riding for a while it seems worse. I pulled the clutches off again and went through them all checks out. Clutch alignment is good. I check clutch and belt temps after a long pull and they were warm but not hot.

Do you know when the Turbo kit was installed? I am just wondering if this was a kit that never got updated to the ADA kit. I think the first kit didn't come with temp sensors, not for sure on that though. Do you have temp sensor in your airbox? What is your charge temps showing on your stats screen. Maybe you have a bad boondockers temp sensor which is messing with your tuning once it gets hot or warms up.

Do you have a push to pass button you can setup to capture stat when its bogging? Really seems like tuning to me. Justin at code red told me low psi is for the first 1/3 of boost you have set. Mid psi is 1/3 to 2/3 of boost. And Hi psi is for 2/3 to WOT. (IE. 9 lbs set, low psi is 0 -3 lbs, mid psi 3 to 6 lbs, high 6-9 lbs.) Then you can tune specific rpms by adding fuel to 3000 5000 ect. If it seems to be burble bog/rich at 4000 lo to mid throttle try adding fuel to low and mid 3000 and low mid 5000 to verify this. Try like 5 points in each. Ride it and if its noticeably worse then you are rich at those spots and take fuel away. Try and make it worse first to verify you are going the right way at the right spot. If it gets worse then I would try maybe 3000 -5 -5 0 5000 -5 -5 0.

Not sure if you already know all this and have already tried all this if so disregard.

 

[snowman429]

Do you know when the Turbo kit was installed? I am just wondering if this was a kit that never got updated to the ADA kit. I think the first kit didn't come with temp sensors, not for sure on that though. Do you have temp sensor in your airbox? What is your charge temps showing on your stats screen. Maybe you have a bad boondockers temp sensor which is messing with your tuning once it gets hot or warms up.

Do you have a push to pass button you can setup to capture stat when its bogging? Really seems like tuning to me. Justin at code red told me low psi is for the first 1/3 of boost you have set. Mid psi is 1/3 to 2/3 of boost. And Hi psi is for 2/3 to WOT. (IE. 9 lbs set, low psi is 0 -3 lbs, mid psi 3 to 6 lbs, high 6-9 lbs.) Then you can tune specific rpms by adding fuel to 3000 5000 ect. If it seems to be burble bog/rich at 4000 lo to mid throttle try adding fuel to low and mid 3000 and low mid 5000 to verify this. Try like 5 points in each. Ride it and if its noticeably worse then you are rich at those spots and take fuel away. Try and make it worse first to verify you are going the right way at the right spot. If it gets worse then I would try maybe 3000 -5 -5 0 5000 -5 -5 0.

Not sure if you already know all this and have already tried all this if so disregard.

Yes It has the temp sensor in the airbox. I have the top end running good just need to figure this bottom out. What is a good AFR at idle? Right now I'm 14.5-15.1 WOT I'm around 12.0-12.5 at 9 psi of boost. Thanks for you help.

 

[theshadowrider]

That's is about right for idle. What is your afr at when it bogs, throttle position, and rpm?

 

[snowman429]

That's is about right for idle. What is your afr at when it bogs, throttle position, and rpm?

I want to say its around 12-13 at the bog, RPM is 4500-5000, Thottle position varys, I can pin it from a stop or ease into it and it bogs. I'm going out again this weekend and try some more stuff. I think I'm going to pull the reeds out again and check them. Maybe the new reeds I put in were bad.

 

[fastgas]

Check the control box bypass jumper to see if it has 2 wires or 4 wires - some jumpers only have 2 wires, in which case you will get a check engine code since the ECU can't see the other 2 injectors.

A lot of changes were made to these kits over the years. Check where your boost sensor is attached - earlier kits had them on the intake side of the throttle bodies, and later kits had them on the airbox, which makes a big difference in tuning.

 

[Jmanwillis]

IF you bring it to Salt lake with a few different part changes and a cost of around 7 hundred you can have one of the smoothest running 700's also.

 

[snowman429]

IF you bring it to Salt lake with a few different part changes and a cost of around 7 hundred you can have one of the smoothest running 700's also.

What kinda of changes?

 

[Jmanwillis]

Efi Box Fuel Reg and Clutching.

 

[snowman429]

Well I think I have figured out part of my problem. While we were taking a break I started messing with my wastgate. If I opened the wastegate by hand it hangs up and stay open a little. Also I think my Bd box is having some issues. It was running great in the midrange then all of a sudden it would lean out some. I kept having to add fuel to it. Then it would go rich so I would have to take fuel away. I think I'm goping to try an attitude box on it and see if that helps.

 

[snowman429]

Well a little update. I replaced the BD box With one from Derek at attitude. I also put on a rising rate FPR. Last night was the first time I had it out since. Man what a different sled. I had my BD box checked again and they said it was fine. I'm pretty sure I got it narrowed donw to fuel pressure was way to high. Right now I have my fuel pressure down to 38 and the bog I was having is pretty much gone.