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08 RMK handling - help!

A

AlpineSMB

New member
OK, nooby here to the IQ chassis. My previous sled was a 98 RMK 700 which never wandered on the trails. New sled is a 08 RMK 600 w/ the 155 track- been experiencing a ton of wandering/darting while on moderately packed trails, so much that it gets downright sketchy at moderate speed.

Did some searching and I went ahead and measured my ski 'toe out' and it is just under 1/4". I have the rear torsion spring cranked up to the mid setting and may even go to the firmest one as I'm mostly using the sled for backcountry ski access and at times have a bunch of skis etc... on the rack

My question is - should I also crank up front shock preload and should I also mess around w/ the limiter strap settings? Not really sure which direction I'd need to go w/ the limiter strap - if skis are aligned properly would I need more or less pressure on the front end to help the tracking?

Thanks for the help - tried searching and nobody really broke it down into simple terms.
 
OK, nooby here to the IQ chassis. My previous sled was a 98 RMK 700 which never wandered on the trails. New sled is a 08 RMK 600 w/ the 155 track- been experiencing a ton of wandering/darting while on moderately packed trails, so much that it gets downright sketchy at moderate speed.

Did some searching and I went ahead and measured my ski 'toe out' and it is just under 1/4". I have the rear torsion spring cranked up to the mid setting and may even go to the firmest one as I'm mostly using the sled for backcountry ski access and at times have a bunch of skis etc... on the rack

My question is - should I also crank up front shock preload and should I also mess around w/ the limiter strap settings? Not really sure which direction I'd need to go w/ the limiter strap - if skis are aligned properly would I need more or less pressure on the front end to help the tracking?

Thanks for the help - tried searching and nobody really broke it down into simple terms.

check your skags and make sure they arnt bent..and have the alignment checked(caster/camber besides toe in/out)...normally these sleds track pretty good..stiffening the frt(shocks, shorten limiter,) should help the frt end.....also the new style swaybar helps as well..carls cycle has a kit to put it on the older sleds....
 
I think all the IQ's do that with the stock skis. If you really want it to stop then buy simmons flexi or similar that have dual skags on the outside edges of the ski. I have 3 iq's with stock skis on two and simmons on one. The simmons are ultra nice on the trail but I don't think they will hold up as long as the sidehillers. Just my .02
 
if everything is tight then toe out more and don't be shy

If it continues to be an issue you can work on skag alignment (angle and contact pressure) and easy test is to simply retrace your path and move your body position dramatically starting back first and see if you can keep it from happening. (IE too much ski pressure at speed)
 
Loosen the limiter strap and soften the rear springs in the skid. This will allow the sled to sit back on the rear skid and reduce the ski pressure. You will experience some ski lift when accelerating but the front will settle down when cruising. If you try to increase the ski pressure you will amplify the darting problem by forcing the skis into the trail ruts. You will have to play with these adjustments a little to get them right for your weight. good luck. CS
 
Ah it's a snowmobile! The idea is to mash it too the bar and go as fast as you can..ALL DAY LONG!:D

The stock gripper skis are about as good as it gets including trail. Just a balance of ski pressure and alignment tied in with decent shocks and you can eliminate darting or wild wondering. ( I am a huge fan of replacing the 4" factory carbide to a 6" from woody's and then readjusting everything for setup...really improved the driving aspect of you outside ski when they are in contact with the ground)
 
So as I was increasing the front shock preload and seeing where the limiter strap was set at - I noticed the Front shock for the track also has another mount position, this one a bit lower from where it is now.

What effect does this have?

Thanks for the help. just trying to grasp what effect all of the adjustments have
 
I was having some wandering and darting issues and I discovered that I had a huge amount of slop in my ski bushings. I was able to turn the handlebars slightly(1/4") from left to right without the skis turning. I discovered that on either side of the bushings, on the sides of the spindles, there was a good size gap. I was able to find the right washers at the hardware store that fit right in there. Problem solved. Nice and tight! No more wondering.
 
Don't sweat the road.

How does it do off trail? I really don't care how my sled does on the road, as long as it rips in the pow ect. I rotated my front track shock forward and swear it jumps up on top of the pow quicker, and it does great doubling up when we shuttle ski/board. I also have my limter in the middle position with the stock skis and it does pretty good on the road. I am on an 09 d8 155, so its similar to yours. Hope this helps.
 
Seems to do OK off trail, problem is the snowpack here in UT blows this year so we're spending more time on the trails getting to our ski stashes than in years past-we use this for doubling at times while skiing in the BC too...

now when you mean rotate the front shock forward is it in the upper or lower mount holes?
 
I have moved my front track shock to the lower hole, it lays the shock down flatter. The stock setting puts the shock in a more vertical position. My friend has an 08 d8 and his seemed to get up on top of the pow slower, climbed slower too. he changed it and likes it too. hope this helps.
geoff
 
my 07 has "loose steering" as well ie can move the bars 1/4 inch each way before the skiis move, where do I look to add the washers to tighten it up? Do I have to pull the motor?
 
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