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08 M1000 - Crazy BD Box numbers???

i know it went lean i think at the low 5000 # obviously since it blew but its been irratically fat seeming at the same #... it blew up at 15 mph going down the road slow on and off the gas. talking about the lo # starting at 7200 and higher, why would you ever want to be at anything except 0? when are you ever at that rpm and not pretty much wide open? i thought if you had any positive # there it would go fat when on and off the gas? i know i took off from a lower elevation than i ever do and it was colder than usua, i just never blew up and engine because of a lean needle ya know... and i thought i was a master engine blower uppppper!!!

Look at it as feeding in from the HI from 6500 and into the MID at 7200... they should all sort of feed into each other from what I understand.

Make sense?

-Jeff
 
bd mount, built this one so I can adjust it up and down and if I happen to stuff the sled in a bank or something it just rotates down out of harms way. started with a piece of 4" aluminum channel and started cutting and grinding. I can see and adjust it standing and sitting.

P2140014.jpg P2140008.jpg
 
ttt

Way to lean. I ride 07 m1000 with reflash and slp y-pipe and pipe and can. I pull 1150 on the egts at wfo on a long pull plugs look good. For some reason or another I have a mid range lean and if I try to richen in up around 5000 rpm it bogs. So i just watch the temps and blip the throttle when I am on the trail. Now if I code only get my clutching solved still blows belts.

I understand it was lean, but every single different ecu reprogram is also going to change #'s. After the dealer reprogrammed my ecu at the end of last year my sled was so fat it literally wouldnt even go down the road... Now bd #'s from before and after that reflash will be alot different. RIGHT?
 
Way to lean. I ride 07 m1000 with reflash and slp y-pipe and pipe and can. I pull 1150 on the egts at wfo on a long pull plugs look good. For some reason or another I have a mid range lean and if I try to richen in up around 5000 rpm it bogs. So i just watch the temps and blip the throttle when I am on the trail. Now if I code only get my clutching solved still blows belts.


Any chance you would post your numbers? I have the same set up as you, except no belt problems. I put in a RKT clutch kit and side vents for cooling and have no belt issues. I do however have a bog/hesitation around 4800- 5000......can not seem to get rid of it............its exceptionally bad when the outdoor temp reaches 35' or more.......
Egts top out 1200......
thanks
 
Any chance you would post your numbers? I have the same set up as you, except no belt problems. I put in a RKT clutch kit and side vents for cooling and have no belt issues. I do however have a bog/hesitation around 4800- 5000......can not seem to get rid of it............its exceptionally bad when the outdoor temp reaches 35' or more.......
Egts top out 1200......
thanks

my low end bog was all clutching, put a 44/36 helix in and she rips off bottom.
 
Mine bogs the worst when at WO, let off then back on it............it takes a bit to catch up.....boggy....gurgily.....

I have the 36 helix..........made a vast improvement..but did not eliminate it....

Also out of curiosity......I see some are running 64/56 gear ratio.....my 07 comes stock with 60/34...........that seems like a huge difference...can anyone explain how much of an effect this has on performance........
 
Mine bogs the worst when at WO, let off then back on it............it takes a bit to catch up.....boggy....gurgily.....

I have the 36 helix..........made a vast improvement..but did not eliminate it....

Also out of curiosity......I see some are running 64/56 gear ratio.....my 07 comes stock with 60/34...........that seems like a huge difference...can anyone explain how much of an effect this has on performance........

what are you riding
 
Bog in midrange.

The bog sounds like clutching or gearing to me.... Mine was doing the exact same thing wwith an RKT 38/36 with green snopro spring. I loosened my secondary off to the 2nd softest setting and it is alot better. It still there a little so I have put 57/63 gears in it. I'm taking it for a rip Friday so it should be better now.
 
what are you riding
07 M1000 162"....Slp pipe, can, and Ypipe....
booondocker fuel box and digitron egts, RKT clutch kit.........I'm afraid i dont know any thing more about the helix other then its a 36.

The only reason I dont know if the bog is clutching or gearing is because it bogs worse above 35'..........and better when its cold..........25' or below.....( I know they run leaner the colder the air.....just wouldnt think the bog would be so different)

However I also didnt know the gearing could be changed so much in these either..............
 
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It builds more hp when cold, so when its cold you have the power to pull the belt and engage the secondary, but a little warmer you don't, but you may be able to lean it out a little when warm and bring it back. Or loosen up the helix some more. there are two ways to engage the secondary, one you over power it forcing the engagement, two it falls right in with the primary engagement. so you may be able to pull a steeper helix and make it work or you need less spring tension on the bottom. When I was in cooke running a 060 built it would fall on its face and then take off(could get the sec. to engage fast enough) the 46 belt work though due to slippage on the bottom, but when I dropped down to 7000ft on the road with the extra power I could run the 60 and it pulled harder than the 46. Went to a slp 44/36 helix with stock spring and it worked better with either belt. if you have the mtx weights or adjustables, you could try taking weight out of the inner hole to slow down the engagement and reduce the bog. But thats not to say its not fueling either just some ideas. and I'm still not perfect with the clutching stuff.
 
07 M1000 162"....Slp pipe, can, and Ypipe....
booondocker fuel box and digitron egts, RKT clutch kit.........I'm afraid i dont know any thing more about the helix other then its a 36.

The only reason I dont know if the bog is clutching or gearing is because it bogs worse above 35'..........and better when its cold..........25' or below.....( I know they run leaner the colder the air.....just wouldnt think the bog would be so different)

However I also didnt know the gearing could be changed so much in these either..............

stock gears for a m1000 are 60/60 you said you have 60/34??????

A lot of people like the 56/64 gears or 57/63(m8) gears I'm am going to get mine clutched right for stock gears and go find the best running geared down one I can and see what happens, but I think either of these gears would benefit me due to my weight and how hard this sled hooks up.
 
stock gears for a m1000 are 60/60 you said you have 60/34??????

A lot of people like the 56/64 gears or 57/63(m8) gears I'm am going to get mine clutched right for stock gears and go find the best running geared down one I can and see what happens, but I think either of these gears would benefit me due to my weight and how hard this sled hooks up.


Ok this is where I really show my ignorance...........I looked at the gears in the transfer....which is 60/34....however if your saying 60/60 then the gears "we" are talking about would be the main 60 in the transfer and the 60 on the input? I WILL figure this out.......
 
It builds more hp when cold, so when its cold you have the power to pull the belt and engage the secondary, but a little warmer you don't, but you may be able to lean it out a little when warm and bring it back. Or loosen up the helix some more. there are two ways to engage the secondary, one you over power it forcing the engagement, two it falls right in with the primary engagement. so you may be able to pull a steeper helix and make it work or you need less spring tension on the bottom. When I was in cooke running a 060 built it would fall on its face and then take off(could get the sec. to engage fast enough) the 46 belt work though due to slippage on the bottom, but when I dropped down to 7000ft on the road with the extra power I could run the 60 and it pulled harder than the 46. Went to a slp 44/36 helix with stock spring and it worked better with either belt. if you have the mtx weights or adjustables, you could try taking weight out of the inner hole to slow down the engagement and reduce the bog. But thats not to say its not fueling either just some ideas. and I'm still not perfect with the clutching stuff.


Your explaination here sounds VERY familiar..........I've noticed it does run better down low...just assumed it was strictly a fuel thing......I will see about adjusting my secondary, put it on a softer setting and see what happens.......

I want to try one thing at a time....that way, hopefully, I can pinpoint the problem.......

I appreciate the help............this sled is great even when its not performing at its best...If I can just get it right.........wow....
 
You may be able to adjust your deflection and reduce the bog to, (if its in the clutching) if your sled bogs when its warm out, its prob because of the less power your putting down, if you run your belt a little looser it will bring your rpm up into a higher hp range before engagement and eliminate the bog. but it may take a little different fueling to, all clutch setups require diff mapping if you want it perfect. or carry two diff belt like I do 60-46. I learn a lot from my clutching by switching belts and understanding why there is a change.
 
MR Quick Bog

Hey Bud I Have A Nos BD Box On Mine & I Put The Tune/LED Combo Button
On Mine From SLP & Set My BD Box So I Can Add Feul Only With Ther Button
It's Been The Best $37.00 Ive Ever Spent For Tuning You Can Push The Button & Add Fuel It Boggs It's Rich /// Boggs & You Push The Button & It Picks Up & Rips It's Lean Might Be Worth It To Up Date BD Box & Add Button
 
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