08 D7 - Don't know where to start. Clutching?

[theletup]

I have a 2008 Dragon 700 163". Like to boondock. Just learning about clutching. I've read a lot of clutching "how to's" on the forum but I'm having trouble trying to figure out how I should be clutching my sled. I ride mostly from about 3500' to 7000' in North Idaho/Eastern Montana. My sled is currently all stock with a SLP single pipe. I thought it pulled pretty well until I rode a buddies 700 that is clutched and realized that his pulls way harder than mine. He hired somebody to set his clutch up and I prefer to tinker with my own toys.

Can you guys help me with what I should be looking at for a sring and weights. Any preferences you guys have for this sled?

Thanks!
cory

 

[Ski-Dont89]

First thing you need to do is make sure all the "free" stuff is good first...all the special clutching wont help at all if your clutching isnt setup properly. set belt deflection, and then check alignment...clean the sheaves on both clutches and blow out the primary with compressed air every few rides. Also check belt to sheave clearance. Also inspect your belt, depending on the miles it might not be a bad idea to get a new one. Use the 1115 belt you will get the best performance and the longest life.

As far as the actual clutching itself i really cant help you.

just my 2 cents

 

[canj]

Here is the clutching chart with the slp single pipe kit. I hope this can help you :

 

[theletup]

Thanks guys,

Chas04F7 good advice. I took apart my secondary yesterday to give it a good cleaning. I noticed that it felt a little rough. Upon further inspection I found the face of the inner sheave that rides against the washer of the outer sheave has a pretty bad divit in it about 2 inches wide. It almost looks like the metal just got hot. It looks like I'm in need of a new TSS-04 or atleast a new inner sheave (which I haven't been able to find).

Also I've found a lot of clutching guys talking about changing the secondary helix from the 42 down to a 40. What's your thoughts on that? I was planning on just leaving my secondary completely stock and maybe getting a kit from Carl's and having the primary balanced.

Thanks again guys!

 

[Ski-Dont89]

how many miles on your clutches?

 

[green_denali]

Call Carls Cycle, they are very knowledgeable on clutching.

 

[snoboy]

IMHO the factory helix sucks. Or I guess I should say it sucks with the stock black spring. I believe in '07 Polaris used a black/purple which is a good spring. Because you have the SLP single you DO need to reclutch. I have grown to love the MTX weights BUT I had to learn more about tuning them from Fastrax. What I ended up doing was using a modified version of SLPs single pipe set up for the primary because I had the stuff already. A good secondary set up that will shine is a 58/40.46-58/38.46 helix set in the 40 ramp with a red/black spring. While this may not be the absolutely most aggressive secondary it's a super combo AND will work really well if you learn to tweek your primary. I reccomend calling FASTRAX about your clutching.

snoboy

 

[429dhm]

Call Carls Cycle, they are very knowledgeable on clutching.

X2

I have a 2008 700 Dragon 155 and I have Carl's Cycle Custom clutch kit (weights, springs, helix) and I am very pleased with their recommendations.

 

[theletup]

These clutches have about 2200 miles on them. I'm pretty sure they've never gotten any attention from the previous owner.

I need to know if I screwed up today. As I stated in one of my previous posts, the moving sheave on my secondary had a good sized divit in the face that rides on the washer between the two sheaves. I decided yesterday to take some emery cloth to it and smooth out the roughness on the surface area. After cleaning all parts thoroughly and putting the clutch back together the clutch still felt pretty rough. Today I decided to try something that I'm not sure I should have done but I figured what the hell I can't make it any worse right?

I fix cars for a living so I rigged up the sheave on my brake lathe at my shop and machined the damaged surface area to true the face. It worked great! I got rid of the divit and the face of the sheave is now shiny and perfectly true. However, I had to remove about 0.020" to 0.030" of surface material to make the face smooth again. I put the clutch back together and it feels excellent. 100x's better than before. note that I also hand polished the washer that rides between the two sheaves with emery cloth as well as the delrin washer under the spring.

I have a couple of questions:

1. Will it matter that I removed this amount of material from the moving sheave face that rides against the washer between the two sheaves? Seems like to me that the only thing this would effect is belt deflection which I should be able to easily compensate for since it was only a maximum of 0.030" of face material removed.

2. There was only a delrin washer on the inner side of the spring that rides on the sheave. Should there be one on both sides? It feels like to me when I rotate the sheaves I still feel a tiny little bit of spring bind (1 little click each way)?


Thanks for any advice guys. I meant to call Carl's today but was using my spare time at work to fix my secondary. Hope to hear some advice