i have a 07 dragon 700 with full SLP exhaust and EPI clutch kit in it. 1 3/4 track. 121" just wondering if there were any other bolt on mods. i have C&A skis also. i dont wanna turbo or bore it out or anything. just seeing if there was anything else i could do. thanks
I have a 2007 D-7, 3700 trouble free miles, my bud has the identical sled, 2500 trouble-free miles
BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS
1) PC III from Jim @ DYNOTECH, $365.00 w/MAPPING INCLUDED (
www.dynotechresearch.com) (585) 993-2777 I'm @ 5-10% LEANER on top, RICHER in the mid-range, that dreaded 5000 r.p.m. flat spot is GONE. I'm reunning the RICHER of the (2) programs that Jim has for a stock piped D-7. He also has the PC III program to work with the SLP single, Jim dynoed a 2008 D-7 January 2009, tested both stock and SLP pipes.After the install of the PC III, it's the first time my plugs had any color on 'em other than black. Keep in mind re: PC III mapping the 2008 model has approx 5% RICHER baseline program into the factory E.C.U. and has the "ethanol wires" to lean it out 5%. The 2007 model has approx 5% LEANER baseline E.C.U. than the 2008 model due to it's not having the 5% ethanol wires. So
2008 w/wires plugged in= 2007. That being said, and
PLEASE CONFIRM WITH DYNOTECH JIM, you may want to richen up his SLP PC III program by 5%,.
2) SLP push arm (part # 23-63) , installs on the MAG side, (2) holes to drill, 20 minute installation time
ALMOST FREE MODS
1) I checked the engine belt/alignment and center to center, (c/c was fine) offset alignment (engine crooked) mine and my bud's were WAY off, removed the engine and slotted the MAG side engine bracket an unbelieveable 1/4" to 3/8" to get it straight. And yes the tools I used are good and straight, I actually triple checked them plus used Slp and a GENUINE GOLD PLATED POLARIS tools, same end result. Other guys on H.C.S. reported similar problems.
2) Check your belt to primary sheave side clearance with a new belt, set it at .010" to .015" (mine was .070" from the factory)
3) Lightly sand (w/180 grit) your clutches perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down with lacquer thinner.
4) Wash/scrub your new belt w/soap and water and let dry, sounds weird but it removes the mold release compound that would otherwise get smeared all over your brand new clutches.
5) Run your chain a little looser, get it to where it barely touches the back of the chain case by pushing on it.
6) Oil pump setting, mine was 37:1 ratio from the factory, I adjusted the 10mm nuts down by the oil pump (Yeah a P.I.T.A. ) 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns and it's @ 57:1 for the last 1200 miles. Picture of oil pump posted below, small horizontal mark stamped on arm (3:00 positon) should line up with short horizontal mark on the red dot protruding out from the case AS A STARTING POINT.
There's a picture of this oil pump posted under the thread 08 700 mods, I moved it up to the top so it would be E-Z to find.
7) Plug the purge hoses coming off the exhaust valves, it will allow the valves to open sooner, like the 2000-2005 power valves.
8) Check your T.P.S. setting, appparently the digital wrench @ the dealer can show good when it's still off. There's a video here on SnoWest that walks you through the process.
9) There's a 1/4" rubber coolant hose coming off the P.T.O. head that heats the throttle bodies, install a simple 1/4" shut-off (available @ hardware store) where it threads into the head, F.Y.I. this set-up comes factory on 2007 Ski-Doo 800's
DEBATEABLE
I installed the SLP big horn air kit + (4) flo-rites, didn't notice any gain.
WASTE OF $$$$$$ AND YOUR TIME
I did the V-force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it's best day, NOT worth the $$$$$$$ and installation time.
Hope this helps
