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MUST-DO Gen5 Turbo Mods?

I went with enzo racing kyb pro40 , set up for my weight and riding style. Best shocks I have ever been on. I had fox air and raptor kinetics on polaris and rode a doo with raptor kinetics and fox coils.

I just bought this setup. I can’t wait to try it.


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Ski Rubbers and RELOCATE kit are excellent points.
The relocate kit was already on my own personal list.

So far as I know there is no such thing as a LIGHT WEIGHT QUIET CAN.
Its an Oxy-Moron.

The lighter you go, the LOUDER IT BECOMES.
I am trying the rpm quite titanium can this year. It seems not much louder than stock sounds but is less than 5 lbs I think. Dimond S is not too crazy loud either but they are hard to get ahold of.
 
Wrap the diamond S in header wrap it will get rid of the tinny sound to it and reduce the underhood temps.


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As a rule.
The forums are FAR FAR better at pointing our PROBLEMS then they are at TRIUMPHS.

But as I said in the opening, these are comments directly from the guys turning the wrenches in the repair bay and ordering in the parts for them...

So with that in hand, I am probing all my fellow riders to see if they ran into any of these issues last year.
agreed and that's my point about gathering data off of forums in that if there's a problem and especially if there's multiple instances of it, we'd hear about it. from that point of view, i'd say charge tube replacement is a non issue. prolly more chances of the mechanic screwing something else up or forgetting something during the install than the charge tube itself failing.
 
I went with enzo racing kyb c40 , set up for my weight and riding style. Best shocks I have ever been on. I had fox air and raptor kinetics on polaris and rode a doo with raptor kinetics and fox coils.
Just out of curriosity.
What makes you prefer the ENZO over the Raptors?
 
I am trying the rpm quite titanium can this year. It seems not much louder than stock sounds but is less than 5 lbs I think. Dimond S is not too crazy loud either but they are hard to get ahold of.
I think the Diamond S is already sold out for 2023.
 
Just out of curriosity.
What makes you prefer the ENZO over the Raptors?
Customer service at enzo is way better, before and after the sale. They both have a nice ride in the " ride zone" but the enzo setup i can make alot more stiff when I need it. And the clicker adjustments make a bigger difference on the kyb. Also enzo has this fantastic front track shock that controls ski lift, I dont need to use the adjustable limiter strap and loose front skid travel.

Screenshot_20231009-120245_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Just out of curriosity.
What makes you prefer the ENZO over the Raptors?

I have Enzo tuned shocks since 2016. Tim definitely knows what he’s doing and has been a doo factory racing shock tuner since the Blair Morgan days. Those integral shock adjustment “the three screws”are a very trick piece of technology and have been used on the factory race sleds for awhile, and they come on the new HCE race sled.
It’s a night and day difference between a factory valved KYB over a Enzo tuned KYB. My sled sits so much higher than my brothers, and the less ski lift especially with a jerry can and tunnel bag is definitely noticeable.


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I see a lot of posts extolling the virtues of various aftermarket suspension set ups but what is the marked difference in the ride quality that a stock set up doesn’t provide? I can see for jumping, drops, etc but when in the good stuff and carving turns in pow which is a very soft substrate, what is the benefit? my next snowcheck is likely not gonna be a Freeride because I’m not the cornice dropping, jumping machine I thought I was gonna be so what am I losing going to the more basic set up say on the X from a suspension point of view?
 
I see a lot of posts extolling the virtues of various aftermarket suspension set ups but what is the marked difference in the ride quality that a stock set up doesn’t provide? I can see for jumping, drops, etc but when in the good stuff and carving turns in pow which is a very soft substrate, what is the benefit? my next snowcheck is likely not gonna be a Freeride because I’m not the cornice dropping, jumping machine I thought I was gonna be so what am I losing going to the more basic set up say on the X from a suspension point of view?

You will notice a difference coming from a freeride suspension to a x valved suspension, especially the loss of the reservoirs.
I have not owned a Freeride, but I know the difference in the shocks.
A expert suspension is valves different than a x as well.


The revalved suspension is tuned to your weight and riding style is the main reason to do it over buying a big name brand.
Stock is a lot softer, the first G5 expert I seen on the show room floor it had a lot of sag, because it’s valved soft at the start of the travel, and that was without a rider and Weight the tunnel.
As I mentioned it’s a noticeable difference in ride height over my brother stock valved expert.

Now as for the ride quality, the sled is more predictable, and the ski lift control is 100% better than the stock valving. No need for the adjustable limiter strap, you can set the ski lift with the front shock. Deep snow starts to me seem better than a stock valved sled, the sled get up on the snow.
No I will probably get roasted for this, a torsion suspension has more adjustment and just rides better. That being said, Now where I absolutely love the Enzo is on a long whooped out trail, the suspension does not fade, and get hot like the stock valves shocks do.

It’s all in what you like, I prefer a stiffer more adjustable suspension than what stock provides.


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Thanks for that explanation, I appreciate it. Sounds like a Freeeide type suspension addresses those issues to a good extent (stiffer suspension, adjustability) but prolly not as much as high end shocks. I like the adjustable limiter strap quick adjust and I’ve installed those on all my Freerides but I’ll experiment also with the center shock as well-I typically keep it on the mid of the 3 position KYB. Interesting that the KYB’s used to have something like 20+ clicks and now there’s 3.
 
You will notice a difference coming from a freeride suspension to a x valved suspension, especially the loss of the reservoirs.
I have not owned a Freeride, but I know the difference in the shocks.
A expert suspension is valves different than a x as well.


The revalved suspension is tuned to your weight and riding style is the main reason to do it over buying a big name brand.
Stock is a lot softer, the first G5 expert I seen on the show room floor it had a lot of sag, because it’s valved soft at the start of the travel, and that was without a rider and Weight the tunnel.
As I mentioned it’s a noticeable difference in ride height over my brother stock valved expert.

Now as for the ride quality, the sled is more predictable, and the ski lift control is 100% better than the stock valving. No need for the adjustable limiter strap, you can set the ski lift with the front shock. Deep snow starts to me seem better than a stock valved sled, the sled get up on the snow.
No I will probably get roasted for this, a torsion suspension has more adjustment and just rides better. That being said, Now where I absolutely love the Enzo is on a long whooped out trail, the suspension does not fade, and get hot like the stock valves shocks do.

It’s all in what you like, I prefer a stiffer more adjustable suspension than what stock provides.


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What do you mean by you can set the ski lift with the front track shock? The FTS doesn't control weight transfer, unless I guess you slowed the rebound way down and even then it would need to be in a compressed state to get that effect. I know you can stiffen up the FTS compression to sort of hold the front end up and dangle a ski or stay on edge easier, and that's usually along with softening the rear track shock compression or the torsion preload. But I would love to know how the FTS is controlling transfer like you are saying.
 
That’s what the warranty is for ,to take care of poor design issues.If you ride it longer than the warranty,then upgrade
Warranty doesn't help much when you've traveled a long way on a trip and your sled breaks down, is stuck in a bad hole, or waiting for backordered parts at the dealer to get back on the snow. If there is a part know to fail on occasion I'd rather spend a few bucks out of my pocket before it becomes my issue on the hill.
 
What do you mean by you can set the ski lift with the front track shock? The FTS doesn't control weight transfer, unless I guess you slowed the rebound way down and even then it would need to be in a compressed state to get that effect. I know you can stiffen up the FTS compression to sort of hold the front end up and dangle a ski or stay on edge easier, and that's usually along with softening the rear track shock compression or the torsion preload. But I would love to know how the FTS is controlling transfer like you are saying.

Look at the enzo shock in the pic. The front track shock has that adjustment. The red screw (tension) is whats dialed in and out for transfer control.


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Look at the enzo shock in the pic. The front track shock has that adjustment. The red screw (tension) is whats dialed in and out for transfer control.


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Ahh interesting, so it is a rebound adjust then. I guess that makes sense now that I think about it more. One issue I would see with having your rebound set super slow (for slow transfer) would be the shock packing up in the whoops (not recovering fast enough from repeated hits). Have you ever found that to be a problem? What settings do you tend to run in terms of closed vs open and then where do you put your limiter? The other question would be if you do have it set very slow does it make the initial ski lift too slow? I feel like I want some initial ski lift but don't want to wheelie over backwards all the time so the stock rebound plus a limiter works well for that, but maybe that's just what I am used to.
 
Ahh interesting, so it is a rebound adjust then. I guess that makes sense now that I think about it more. One issue I would see with having your rebound set super slow (for slow transfer) would be the shock packing up in the whoops (not recovering fast enough from repeated hits). Have you ever found that to be a problem? What settings do you tend to run in terms of closed vs open and then where do you put your limiter? The other question would be if you do have it set very slow does it make the initial ski lift too slow? I feel like I want some initial ski lift but don't want to wheelie over backwards all the time so the stock rebound plus a limiter works well for that, but maybe that's just what I am used to.

There is a setting for trails and a setting for trees in the setup sheet.


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Things I plan on changing:

Clutching
Brake lever
Kill switch
Ski rubbers

Things I'm considering:

Quality extrovert drivers
Front shocks
 
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