Something is wrong with engine management...
If you have stock clutching and only change out my helix and then go test...
You'll find the engine will go to overrev and hit the rev limiter.
My helix angles are lower angles through the whole shift range than stock helix...
Helix angle determines rpms.
Larger angles reduce rpms.
Lower angles increase rpms.
Helix angles determine engine rpm acceleration
larger angles reduce how quick an engine can accelerate
Lower angles quicken acceleration.
How i get the rpms down with my helix [using stock pinweight] is to simply reduce the final force of the primary spring.
....the rpms balance out.
The kit is calibrated to run clicker 4 up to about 8000 feet.
8000+ and then clicker 5 and good to 11000 without problem.
IF you have low rpms with the kit
THEN raise the clicker
IF you have a low rpm problem with my kit
THEN there is something else wrong other than clutch calibration.
My helix will force the engine to increase rpms.
I would confirm the parts you have in the primary and secondary.
IF you have my kit installed
THEN there is a Grey Dalton 200/330
The secondary has a helix named "SMT" for button secondary or the S8R7 for roller secondary.
The secondary spring is stock purple - black in color w/2 purple stripes on it, 6" long.
The primary clutch pinweight is the stock hollow or solid or threadable pin that weighs 10.3grams [all 3 pins weigh the same]
You can confirm you have at least one of the right pins the part number is 417004309
hope you find out your troubles...
the RT kit flatout rawks!!! [when engine runs correctly]
***The helix will not wear out, you can scratch the casing with a screw driver and it will only marr the surface however still be smooooth, Dalton helix casing harness is hardest in the industry and not ever wear to a thinner diameter - The clutch itself will wear out before the helix***
If you have stock clutching and only change out my helix and then go test...
You'll find the engine will go to overrev and hit the rev limiter.
My helix angles are lower angles through the whole shift range than stock helix...
Helix angle determines rpms.
Larger angles reduce rpms.
Lower angles increase rpms.
Helix angles determine engine rpm acceleration
larger angles reduce how quick an engine can accelerate
Lower angles quicken acceleration.
How i get the rpms down with my helix [using stock pinweight] is to simply reduce the final force of the primary spring.
....the rpms balance out.
The kit is calibrated to run clicker 4 up to about 8000 feet.
8000+ and then clicker 5 and good to 11000 without problem.
IF you have low rpms with the kit
THEN raise the clicker
IF you have a low rpm problem with my kit
THEN there is something else wrong other than clutch calibration.
My helix will force the engine to increase rpms.
I would confirm the parts you have in the primary and secondary.
IF you have my kit installed
THEN there is a Grey Dalton 200/330
The secondary has a helix named "SMT" for button secondary or the S8R7 for roller secondary.
The secondary spring is stock purple - black in color w/2 purple stripes on it, 6" long.
The primary clutch pinweight is the stock hollow or solid or threadable pin that weighs 10.3grams [all 3 pins weigh the same]
You can confirm you have at least one of the right pins the part number is 417004309
hope you find out your troubles...
the RT kit flatout rawks!!! [when engine runs correctly]
***The helix will not wear out, you can scratch the casing with a screw driver and it will only marr the surface however still be smooooth, Dalton helix casing harness is hardest in the industry and not ever wear to a thinner diameter - The clutch itself will wear out before the helix***
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