The machine is running and idling fine i had it scanned at the shop all the sensors are fine.I ran it on the pond and when she hits 6800-7000 the sled boggs out put it WOT and still the same almost like its running on one cylender. I replaced the reeds, spark plugs, plug caps, fresh gas with heet, checked the servo motor opens fine at 6800, took the cables off the power valves they seem to be free. I'm sort of stuck on where to go with this i'm hoppin i can get some help. thankx
05 M7 Efi Bog Out At 6800 Rpm!!!!
- Thread starter StumpJumper82
- Start date
Not my area of expertice, but a clutch problem will cause a bog (so to speak). if it pulls up to a certian point then drops off, I'd look to the clutch.
did you check the length of the cables, mine did the same last year and it was cuz me cables were out of whack..
I am having the same problem right now. Talked to the dealer and another mech. and they told to check my power valve cables. If they are out of adjustment the sled will run in "limp mode". Told me to set them at 34.5mm. I won't get to work on it until Wed. Hope it works.
6800, I think that is the RPM that the Exhaust valves do their self-check. I believe it happens when the engine speed (RPM) is coming down and you hit the throttle. I would check the cable length and clean your valves.
power vavles
i had the cables off last night they seem to be the same length ,left the cover off and they opened at 6800 again,i'm goin to take them out and clean them up today and would n e body know how to set those up or i dont need to?
i had the cables off last night they seem to be the same length ,left the cover off and they opened at 6800 again,i'm goin to take them out and clean them up today and would n e body know how to set those up or i dont need to?
power vavles
I took the power vavles out today cleaned them up and stuff and tryed the machine again but still done the same thing. N e body else have n e ideas?
I took the power vavles out today cleaned them up and stuff and tryed the machine again but still done the same thing. N e body else have n e ideas?
You need to measure your cable end play at the servo motor to 34.5 mm with the power valves in the motor and tight. Pretty sensitive system when it comes to cable adj.
I had a very similar problem, except my sled would bounce 7200-7400 and fall back down to 6800 when held wide open. However, when I ran the sled up to about 6600 for a few seconds and then pin it it would come out of the bog. I have an 05 M7 EFI with slp twins and wound up taking a few numbers out of the mid range on the boondocker box. The sled ran better after this transition. So I narrowed it down to a fuel problem. The sled ran good for 20 min on sat tell I smoked my ecu box. But for those 20 min there was no bog.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
If your cables were too tight the servo would cycle 3 times then then quit working to save the motor from burning out regardless if they're sticking or not. Too much cable length and they just wouldn't open completely. Make sure you got the cables back on the proper order and set the cable length as stated. Also If your secondary adjuster backed itself off you'd be shifting out too soon and could make the sled doggy. Check for broken or sacked out clutch springs and check belt ride height,belt width and deflection. Does it rev up on a stand without cutting out? Maybe have fuel pressure checked with a gauge and verify the check valves in the pick up lines aren't closed off which can happen with water in the tank. Your dealer should of been able to nail it down unless it's something like an intermittent electrical thing going on.
I havn't got into the clutch yet but thats the next task, i tryed it on the stand and still cuts out at 6800-7000. I left the cover off the servo motor to see if it opened and it worked just fine at 6800. A guy told me that it could be the stator or the clutch so prob not goin to be a cheap fix, but the snow is on the ground now and it time to ride, just running out of paticence lol
mine did about the same for about 3 days, unplugged the ecu brought it in the house let it dry out for 2 days plugged it back in no more problems.
Running Good For A Sec!!!!
Just back from a run on the sled, never went very far but on the way back i let it go up to 6800 and bog a little then let the trottle go and put it WOT and oh my god hang on lol. But n e way we went to a pond to really try it and 6-7 good runs back and forth goin WOT working top notch but then the belt went into pieces. So i'm wondering if it was the wrong belt or a prob with my clutch. N e body got an idea let me know thankx.
Just back from a run on the sled, never went very far but on the way back i let it go up to 6800 and bog a little then let the trottle go and put it WOT and oh my god hang on lol. But n e way we went to a pond to really try it and 6-7 good runs back and forth goin WOT working top notch but then the belt went into pieces. So i'm wondering if it was the wrong belt or a prob with my clutch. N e body got an idea let me know thankx.
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Double L
Member
I ride with three guys that have 05 M7's and they have all had this problem. They found that it was a the fuel regulator problem from the factory. They all put in aftermarket fuel regulators and it fixed the problem. The regulators are in the bottom of the fuel tank and this is why the hole for the gas gap is so big; so you can get to it. They told me that the stock regulators pump to much fuel into sled (44PSI) and the aftermarket regulators correct it (42PSI). I might be off a little on the PSI's but you get the idea. Hope this helps
Same Problem
I am having the exact same problem as stumpjumper82 with my 2005 D&D M8 single pipe. i get to 6800 - 6900rpms and it just bogs out. Runs really good until then. i just had the clutches rebuilt 70gr and orange in the primary and D&D tan spring 36 degree helix and 1/2" of spring preload. Still the same problem. I got rid of the servo motor and now use the STM gas valves which have worked great. The first time i had this problem my brake light was busted out which cause too light of load on the ECU which didnt allow me to get over 7100rpm because of some ECU fail safe. Double L : does the aftermarket fuel regulator effect the numbers on the boondocker box? I just want my sled to run all through the rpms because it runs so well until it hits this invisible wall!! Ive tried all the fixes the stumpjumper has except the stator and the fuel regulator. Im really hesitant to take it to the shop to have them keep my sled for weeks and still not be able to fix it!
I am having the exact same problem as stumpjumper82 with my 2005 D&D M8 single pipe. i get to 6800 - 6900rpms and it just bogs out. Runs really good until then. i just had the clutches rebuilt 70gr and orange in the primary and D&D tan spring 36 degree helix and 1/2" of spring preload. Still the same problem. I got rid of the servo motor and now use the STM gas valves which have worked great. The first time i had this problem my brake light was busted out which cause too light of load on the ECU which didnt allow me to get over 7100rpm because of some ECU fail safe. Double L : does the aftermarket fuel regulator effect the numbers on the boondocker box? I just want my sled to run all through the rpms because it runs so well until it hits this invisible wall!! Ive tried all the fixes the stumpjumper has except the stator and the fuel regulator. Im really hesitant to take it to the shop to have them keep my sled for weeks and still not be able to fix it!
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Double L
Member
boondocker & regulator?
I truly don't know if you have to change the numbers on your boondocker. One of my buddies had the boondocker kit on his sled after he had installed the new regulator and it was pretty finicky. When it ran right, it blew the doors of the other two M7's and also my rev. He ended up taking it off and running stock because of the frustation of dial it in. Anyways I see your in AK, Anchorage Arctic Cat sells the aftermarket fuel regulators for around $150.00 that might be a good next step. Those sleds rip even stock when there pulling the right R's, so good luck. Don't want to sound like a dick but I'd rather ride a stock sled that is pulling 8000 R's than a mod sled that is only pulling 6800's. I'll try to get one of the guys that ride them to post anything else that may help.
I truly don't know if you have to change the numbers on your boondocker. One of my buddies had the boondocker kit on his sled after he had installed the new regulator and it was pretty finicky. When it ran right, it blew the doors of the other two M7's and also my rev. He ended up taking it off and running stock because of the frustation of dial it in. Anyways I see your in AK, Anchorage Arctic Cat sells the aftermarket fuel regulators for around $150.00 that might be a good next step. Those sleds rip even stock when there pulling the right R's, so good luck. Don't want to sound like a dick but I'd rather ride a stock sled that is pulling 8000 R's than a mod sled that is only pulling 6800's. I'll try to get one of the guys that ride them to post anything else that may help.
B
barbender
New member
hey stumpjumper buddy had similar problems. he would hit 6500-6800 and sled would go in to limp mode like it was running on one cylinder like you say but his dash and head lights would cut. turned out to be a small short in the hand warmers. Even with hand warmers off still had problems, so we pulled off alum. cover under hood against stearing post unpluged both hand and thumb warmer. Problem solved!! This sled went to the dealer 4-5 times and was no help so dont count on their tests. We Used a ohm meter to test the warmes, both had different ohm readings so we knew there was a problem. Just my 2 bits. Good luck
I am still having this same problem too. Went out Sat. after cleaning and adjusting power valves. It ran pretty good for a while, but progressively got worse throughout the day. Dropped it off at the dealer on the way home. As of yesterday they still hadn't gotten to it. Hopefully they will today. I will post if I learn anything.
Not to change the subject too much, but my M7 has had a bog down low, right after engagement. Sometimes have to feather the throttle like a sled with a dirty old carb on it to get rpms to build.
Once it gets going though, it screams up to 8000rpms like nothing's wrong.
SLed has about 1000mi on it. Never even cracked the exhaust valves open on it, but plan to 'cause they may be dirty. Although this happens well before the valves s/b opening.
Clutches are still stock clutching which seems to have worked well. Only thing done was to replace the plastic adjuster w/ an aluminum one. Belt is riding high, deflection is good, but it almost sems like a clutching problem where the 2ndary is opening and kicking into a higher gear right off idle.
ANy suggestions would help, 'cause I don't live in snow country and really don't have time to fool around w/ the sled when we go up riding.
Once it gets going though, it screams up to 8000rpms like nothing's wrong.
SLed has about 1000mi on it. Never even cracked the exhaust valves open on it, but plan to 'cause they may be dirty. Although this happens well before the valves s/b opening.
Clutches are still stock clutching which seems to have worked well. Only thing done was to replace the plastic adjuster w/ an aluminum one. Belt is riding high, deflection is good, but it almost sems like a clutching problem where the 2ndary is opening and kicking into a higher gear right off idle.
ANy suggestions would help, 'cause I don't live in snow country and really don't have time to fool around w/ the sled when we go up riding.
