AmSnow.com is now SnoWest.com
A Yes, you can shorten the shocks or use shorter shocks. Just compress the suspension to your target height and measure your shock length from bolt to bolt. There are a lot of cheap shock options to use to get it where you want it.
– Todd Guthrie, Dyna-tek Performance
ISR Stud Rules
Q I need clarification. It doesn’t say in the rule book how far to the edge of the outside of the track the studs can be, so can I put the backer right to the edge of the track?
– machz975
A There is no stud placement rule when it comes to drag racing, only a maximum height over the tallest point of the track. For snocross and some cross-country racing, there are stipulations as to stud location. ISR has the rules posted on their website to double-check your specific need.
– Todd Guthrie, Dyna-tek Performance
The Right Ratio
Q I have an 800 imp. Ski-Doo. What’s the best comp ratio to run for ice and/or grass drags?
– ski-doo ps 1000
A Too many things go into determining what is best for your application. Different pipes, porting and ignition timing all have an effect on it, but here is the basic concept: Asphalt and ice guys usually run a lower compression ratio than the dirt guys do. 800 triples can be 14.5 to 16:1 comp ratio for ice and asphalt. The grass guys can be 1 or 2 points tighter than that for grass. Like I said, a lot of things play into a final comp ratio for me to be able to give an exact answer. This is where some guys will put tens of thousands of dollars into a motor to change tuning aspects and find the sweet spot for their particular sled.
– Todd Guthrie, Dyna-tek Performance
Wire it Up!
Q I have a 1994 Mach Z 780 for asphalt. Right now I have a stock tach, headlight and taillight. I thinned down the harness of all the other gauges, lights, speedo, etc. I would like to eliminate everything except what’s needed for a VDO Tach, kill, tether and, of course, stock ignition. I can make the harness and weather pack connectors, just need some input or sketch to do so.
– outlaw fab shop
A Very easy! Green on your tach to either yellow wire from your stator, then ground the remaining yellow to a good ground. Tach red to a battery power, and tach black to battery ground. The kill switch and tether are just grounding the CDI black when the switch is activated/tether pulled, so one ground wire can be run to both. I never ran a voltage regulator, so I would not worry about one.
– oldschool780