AmSnow.com is now SnoWest.com
Pipes, paint and more The next phase took me to an area I was least familiar with – rebuilding the pipe. Knowing that the huge stock 700 silencer would in no way fit this build, I was lucky to find at a swap meet the exact aftermarket can I wanted to use. I used the stock ’99 pipe and with some angle changes and rotations was able to fit the main body of the pipe in place and connect it to the aftermarket can.
(Photo 4)
My many years of drafting experience was put to use to make an exact scale drawing of the original pipe and then modify the shape of the cone section to fit the head pipe and still maintain as closely as possible the pipe’s original volume. Then using this drawing as a flat pattern, I constructed each section of the cone from poster board and taped them together to create the shape required. Once the cone sections were completed, I taped it to the pipe for a final fit check. I then used the section patterns to make the 20-gauge steel cone segments before tack-welding them together for final assembly.
(Photo 5)
Finally, it was time to start the rear suspension and track modifications. Since both sleds used the same size track drive sprockets, I was able to take the mounting hole dimensions from the ’99 chassis and use them for drilling holes in the ’77 tunnel.
By modifying the rear ’99 brackets, I was able to use the existing rear holes in the ’77 tunnel. Since the ’77 chassis was ½-inch narrower, it was necessary to narrow each of the three mounting points on the ’99 suspension by the same. I bought a new 136-inch Camoplast 1-inch pre-studded track to replace the paddle track used on the ’99 sled. I lengthened the tunnel and also used the rear heat exchanger from the ’99.
Additionally, I modified the stock Exciter handlebars by pressing out some of the curvature and added 11/2 inches to each side to increase steering leverage to help deal with the new front-end’s weight. I was able to use all of the handlebar components from the ’99 including the cover pad.
(Photo 6) I really liked the look of the ’99 seat and since I am very tall, it was necessary to move the seat back from the original tank to be comfortable for me to ride. Using the rear half of the ’99 fuel tank for the seat-mount, I fabricated a framework for a storage compartment between the seat and gas tank. I also had a professional shop upholster this along with the seat.
Once all the fab work was completed and I was sure all the parts and pieces would fit together and function properly, it was time to tear it all down and begin the painting and finishing process.
The tunnel was powder-coated in Camaro Silver. All fabricated parts were painted and clear-coated in black or red, and the hood and front suspension parts also were painted and clear-coated by a professional restoration shop. All aluminum parts were fine sanded, polished and then given a protective coating of clear sealer.
(Photo 7)
After final assembly, all that remained was the graphic details
(Photos 8, 9). My older son is a graphics designer and was able to transform my thoughts into precise decals that were then printed using a thermal process that gives them a factory-perfect look. All of the stock-appearing graphics were then bought from an aftermarket reproduction company. After applying all the decals, we were finally able to step back for that, “Wow, I can’t believe it’s done” look!
Final pride
It’s difficult to describe the feeling of accomplishment that one has when completing a project of this magnitude. But, when I pulled the rope and that big triple fired for the first time and when I took that first ride around the house, suddenly 11 months of work seemed like just a couple of weeks.
I take great pride in the fact that I was able to do all of the fabrication work myself, and only had outside help for the pipe welding, some painting, upholstery work, and graphics. Already people are asking “what’s next?”
How about a long-track Phazer with a modified 540 fanner and a trailing arm front-end, or how about … oh never mind!
Good luck to anyone trying a project like this. Whether you’re interested in vintage or current sleds, start with simple add-ons and work up to a custom build.
It’s worth the time and effort.