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Step by Step
This project is a fairly simple job for the DIY mechanic. You will need a good set of hand tools, the tools that come with the machine, and a QRS secondary removal tool from Ski-Doo to hold the chaincase and the top gear in place while the jackshaft is removed. A snowmobile stand is needed too so you don’t have to work in an uncomfortable bent-over position. The job should take less than two hours.
Start by opening both cowl sides and removing the air box (photo 1). Next, prepare for the removal of the jackshaft. First, remove the belt and then take out the bolt that holds the jackshaft retainer behind the secondary. Go to the other side and remove the round rubber cover from the top side of the chaincase. Inside you will see a bolt and washer on the end of the jackshaft that holds this unit and the top gear in place. Once this bolt is removed it’s a balancing act to place or slip the special tool (photo 2) in place, while pulling the jackshaft out from the clutch side. This procedure is best done by one person; the mechanic can feel the jackshaft movement and should be able to start following the jackshaft end with the QRS removal tool. This tool holds the top gear and chain in place without removing the chaincase. This job CANNOT be done without removing the jackshaft. There is just not enough room. Warning, do not let the top gear fall!
With the jackshaft out of the way, start removing the throttle body assembly by loosening the clamps that hold the throttle body to the stock reed valves (photo 3). Remove the throttle body by pushing the assembly up and down and side to side to break the rubber seal. Once this unit is removed, push the throttle body out of the way and use zip ties to hold it out of the way. Now remove all the machine screws that hold the reed valves to the cylinders. There are six screws on each side. Please note that reeds are fragile, so handle these units with care.
The install kit comes with new screws and gaskets. You might want a small amount of gasket glue to hold the gasket in place during installation. Remember to tighten the screws in a criss-cross pattern to ensure even torque on the new parts.
Before pushing the throttle body back into position, make sure the leading edges here are clean and free from corrosion (photo 4). Rub a small amount of dielectric grease on these surfaces. This will prevent corrosion in the future. It will not harm the rubber parts and it will also slide together easier. Remember to snug-up all four clamps on the Boyesen boots.
It’s now time to put the jackshaft back in place. When sliding the jackshaft back through, be careful to catch the special tool and be sure the alignment of the shaft splines meet the top gear’s inner teeth. Once the shaft is in place, install the bolt and washer, and tighten in place. Now you can install the drive belt and set the belt deflection. Install the air box and all the other loose ends.
You are now ready to hit the snow!
800 Stock and Mod Testing
We started our original trials by putting significant ride time in on both the stock 800 and 600 E-TEC in the MXZ trim. This test riding was done in order to get an accurate comparison after the change out of stock parts for the Boyesen Rage Cage change!
Field testing the stock Ski-Doo 800 E-TEC before and after the Rage Cage showed significant changes. We traveled the same trails at the same speeds and there was a big difference over the stock reed valves. The new Boyesen Rage Cage betters the power curve by smoothing out the bottom and removing that big hit; giving the 800 E-TEC a stronger/smoother pull though the mid range and all the way through to the top.
The new Rage Cage changes the characteristics of this motor, making it easier to ride with an overall improved performance.
Next up? The 600 E-TEC
It was a great day for a product test, while we were out test riding the 800 E-TEC, the Boyesen mechanics were busy changing out the stock reed valves for the new Boyesen Rage Cages on the MXZ 600 E-TEC.
The step-by-step procedure is almost the same as with the 800 E-TEC. The same tools are required, time frame, etc. What’s different on the 600 project is there is more room to work with. The disassembly is the same with the removal of the jackshaft, again using the QRS secondary removal tool to hold the top gear in place. But the exhaust sensor on the 600 E-TEC’s muffler can get in the way, so this sensor needs to be removed.
After the quick 600 Rage Cage change, we hit the same trail once again, this time testing the MXZ 600 E-TEC with the new Rage Cage system. Wow! What a difference over stock! This system is more responsive, in and out of the throttle, and the change was more noticeable on the 600 than the 800. The power curve is smoother from the bottom all the way through to the top and it has a different sound notes, a throatier more performance sound.
In addition to the added performance, we discussed with the Boyesen folks how their systems have a better way of dealing with the delaminating and corrosion than the stock systems. Some consumers claim BRP stock reed systems have had this problem for some time on several of their 2-stroke engines.
At a fraction of the cost of replacing the stock parts and at the same time receiving added performance, the Boyesen Rage Cages seem to be a good option.