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Green streaks of light coalesced, shimmered, danced a slow waltz with The Seven Sisters star cluster and then dissolved into the night sky. The Northern Lights, one of the greatest shows on earth, welcomed us, and other early morning snowmobilers, to the Yukon.
Whitehorse is the center of the Yukon, home to nearly three-quarters of the territory's population, and one of North America's best snowmobiling destinations. Our snowmobile trip, from its start on Air North (there is still an airline that serves real food and cheesecake for dessert - free!), to my last walk around the city to take a few more photos of the snow sculptures, was as near to perfect as we've experienced.
Of course, you can drive the Alaska Highway, and trailer your own sleds to Whitehorse, but we decided to fly and book machines from MacPherson's Rentals. For convenience, we chose to stay at the Best Western Gold Rush Inn, right on Main Street. While there was no panning for gold, the lobby was filled with relics from the goldfields, and there was a bar where I half expected the ghost of a grizzled, old Klondike prospector to pull up a chair. We enjoyed the atmosphere, friendly conversation and the dining room.
Most of Whitehorse lies west of the Yukon River on a narrow river plain, walled-in by 65-yard-high escarpments. We were anxious to get out and put on a few miles sledding topside and take a look at the city below, so we got MacPherson's to trailer the sleds to the trailhead on the Trans Canada Trail, where there was ample room to unload and park trailers.
There also are some urban connector trails available, and local laws allow an operator to take the most direct route to the nearest place where he/she may lawfully operate a snowmobile - sleds may not operate on a highway for any other purpose.
Our routesFrom Whitehorse, we had access to hundreds of miles of groomed and ungroomed trails that meander through everything a snowmobiler could dream of. Black spruce and tamarack forests cover the mountainsides, and the snowmobile trails twist and turn, taking you deeper and deeper into the forest.
Winding higher, the trail gives way to wind-swept mountaintops with a thin cover of crunchy snow and a full-circle vista of white-peaked mountains in the distance. In the valleys, alpine lakes spread out in a glassy surface that provides an invitation to put the throttle down.
We met a few other sleds on the trail as we headed up to Haeckel Hill, where two wind turbines stand like sentinels over Whitehorse. It is easy to believe that Haeckel Hill has 10 times more wind energy than is available in the valley at the city airport -even at the near-thawing temperature of the afternoon, the wind felt icy. We spent a few minutes at the lookout point, gazing at the city, spread along the river below, before deciding to head to lower altitudes to warm up!
There's nothing we love more than trails with variety, so we sledded out on the Wolf Creek trail, eventually ending up down on the ice. In between, we found some great hillsides to play on, always a lot of fun! Whitehorse is Canada's driest city, with an average annual snowfall of around 5 feet. Its cooler temperatures mean little winter melting, so the snow remains on the ground longer to enjoy.
We also sledded the multi-use Trans Canada Trail where you can find dog mushers and ATVs sharing some space. The Mine Haul Road section had the feel of a well-groomed super-highway, alongside more rock, but with fewer trees. While the snowmobile drive out to Takhini Hot Springs takes the better part of a day, it's worth the ride. Although we didn't think of it, you can take along a bathing suit and warm up in the natural mineral waters of the two connected pools (water enters at 90 gallons per minute at 112°F)!
Keep busy in Whitehorse!Whitehorse is a year-round destination for adventurers. Besides snowmobiling in the winter, you can try heli-skiing, winter camping, snow-shoeing, ice fishing, dog sledding, cross-country skiing or even downhill skiing at Mt. Sima.
For special events, try the whitewater rodeo (kayak slalom), Yukon Sourdough Rendezvous (winter festival), the Yukon Quest (sled dog race), along with a dozen more activities! The Canada Winter Games are to be in Whitehorse this year from Feb. 23-March 7.
Our must-see list includes: the Beringia Centre with the Woolly Mammoth and 400 lb. beaver from the Ice Age outside, the MacBride Museum that provides gold rush history and other exhibits, the S.S. Klondike sternwheeler, Yukon Arts Centre and the Whitehorse Fish Ladder and Dam (longest wooden fish ladder in the world).
For more info, see www.visitwhitehorse.com or travelyukon.com or call 800-661-0494 to talk to a travel counselor, or call 800-789-8566 for a free vacation guide. You can contact the Best Western Gold Rush Inn at 867-668-4500.