you asked cat talks reflashes shocks

Amsnow

AmSnow.com is now SnoWest.com

In this first installment from our popular www.AmSnow.com forum, Ask the Engineers, our online members ask plenty of pointed questions of Arctic Cat's panel of factory brainiacs. The crop of new 2008 sleds and last year's new Twin Spar chassis, as well as questions on the new motors, prompted plenty of inquiries. Here are some valuable answers to questions posed by customers just like you.

Q: Why weren't there steps taken to try and correct the problems with the new 800cc motors? Many of us had problems with backfiring, melted side panels and horrible bogs. Reflashes were available for the 1000 but not the 800, why? - AmSnow.com member Jim Blight

A: We were aware of the issues on the 800 this past winter and have found solutions that have been implemented on the 2008 models. Those solutions will also be available for the 2007 models. The reflash of the ECU on the 1000 was to correct a lean condition that was causing seizures in certain driving conditions; we did not have that problem with the 800.

Q: First, I want to thank you for making such a dependable sled. My 2007 F5 LXR went 6,400 miles without a glitch, never so much as changed a plug. However, my F5 pushed in the corners; there was not enough ski bite. What has been changed for the 2008 to solve this problem? Also, why did the 2008 F5 go from RydeFX shocks to twin tube oil shocks? Is this a downgrade or upgrade in shocks? - AmSnow.com member Mike Lever

A: The 2008 models were built with adjustable front arm limiter straps. The limiter straps have three holes for adjustment. Shortening the limiter straps will increase the ski pressure to the ground. You may see slightly more steering effort when you have more ski pressure.

To answer your second question, the F5 has always come standard with the twin tube shocks. However, the difference between the standard twin tube and the RydeFX twin tube has to do with the internal components that allow for a finer tuned shock calibration. We've found very satisfying results with the calibration of the twin tube shocks on the 2008 F5's.

Q: I have a 2007 Crossfire 1000 with 1,400 miles on it. Love the sled's ride and all-around performance. I was replacing the bad power valve cable and noticed my tunnel was BENT at the foot wells. I am 54 and just trail ride and never do any jumping. Is Cat aware of this problem, as others have complained about this over and over on the Internet? Is this a warranty issue? Do you have an updated bracket for this? - AmSnow.com member Mike Walters

A: Depending on the type of bump you hit, coupled with the low snow conditions, you do not have to be jumping to cause damage to your sled. Arctic Cat offers a tunnel bracket kit (Part No. 4639-900 for the SnoPro models and No. 4639-901 for standard models). This is listed in the May 2007, Vol. 2, Issue 20 of the Arctic Cat ShopTalk (dealer service publication). If your track drivers are not bent and there are no obvious signs of abuse, your dealer should take care of you, and Arctic Cat will cover this during your warranty period. For added strength and insurance after your warranty has expired, it's a good idea to order these brackets to prevent damage to your sled. For 2008 sleds, we have added strengthening ribs and reinforcement brackets in conjunction with other changes made to strengthen the running boards without adding weight.

Q: I'm curious about Arctic Cat's new race sled. Will this machine have the ability to be put on the trail? Now you can get all of the necessary components to turn a race-bred Firecat into a trail rider. I want to know if we will be able to do that to the new race-bred 600's. - AmSnow.com member Tyler Rovinski

A:The 2008 Arctic Cat 600 race sled will be able to be run on the trails. Although, it will be in very limited quantities and sold only to qualified racers through the race department for racing purposes only.

Q: I get 400 miles max on my Crossfire 1000 belt and it shreds apart. Clutches run hot enough to cook eggs, and the clutches are aligned dead on. I added more weight to it with better performance, but still poor belt life. At $150 a belt, this is getting very expensive. I am on my fourth belt now and this is getting old. My Firecat 700 would get 1,200-1,500 miles before replacing. Is there going to be a fix for the Diamond secondary problem? I know you know there is a problem with these two issues. Can you HELP? - AmSnow.com member Mike Walters

A: There are several things that could be contributing to your poor belt life. Here are some things to check for:

Clutch parallelism: This is probably the biggest contributor to poor belt life. It is important that the engine be aligned with a + .060-in. parallelism (see Service Manual for description of how to measure). We have designed some clearance in the engine mounts that allows the engine to be adjusted. After awhile, the engine mounts can take a set and they need to be re-adjusted.

Belt break-in: It's critical to follow the break-in procedure listed in your owner's manual for maximum belt life. This consists of running at half throttle or less for about 20 miles. This will help get rid of any mold release and other chemicals from the new belt and help season it.

Oily belt: If oil gets spilled on the clutches or belt, it will greatly reduce the friction between the sheaves and the belt. Oil can leak out of the ACT drive vent if the sled is turned over on the clutch side or by a bad seal in the ACT drive. Make sure that the clutches are clean and free from any debris or gunk.

Proper belt tension: If the belt is too loose, it will start to slip and generate heat and/or over shift. If the belt is too tight, it will try to engage when the sled is idling and create extra belt heat.

Worn clutch rollers: If your clutches have gotten as hot as you say, your rollers have probably been damaged and now are flat-spotted. Check the rollers and replace them as necessary. Continuing to use flattened rollers will generate more heat and could contribute to wrecking a new belt prematurely.

Q: I am still confused about why Arctic Cat engineers decided to make the plugs on the F-Series so hard to get to? I haven't had a problem yet, but I am worried about that when the time comes. - AmSnow.com member Todd Mack

A: The F-Series chassis is designed for improved centralized mass. Our laydown engine lends itself well to this design. However, when the engine is tucked in tight it makes it difficult to get to certain components. We designed the headlight pod to be removed quickly and easily in case the customer needs to get to those components while on the trail or in the shop. By unfastening two screws and disconnecting the wiring harness, it is very easy to get to the sparkplugs. With our EFI system, it's very rare to need to replace the plugs.
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