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I always felt that if you never had been to Yellowstone, you owed it to yourself to go. After all, this is one of the first places in America to recognize the value of winter and winter tourism. It was also one of the first places to fight for snowmobilers' rights in the national park and the surrounding areas in Idaho, Montana and, of course, Wyoming, in which most of Yellowstone National Park sits.
Back in the mid-1970s, when I was with Snow Goer magazine, I visited the area for the first time. I came with a busload of vacationing snowmobilers from Minnesota. On the way through the park there were buffalo and elk- just like the brochures promised. In the surrounding areas I saw an eagle soaring overhead, free and natural.
Yellowstone for a first-timer was a fantasy land of snowmobiling. The western snow never seemed to end. You could ride from your motel to a restaurant. Out to the trails. Into the Park. I'd never experienced anything like it.
Then, for the next few years, it seemed as though I went to the Yellowstone once or twice a winter. It seemed boring. I didn't think there was anything new.
Maybe there wasn't. But, then came my "Yellowstone" drought. I didn't go back to Yellowstone for almost eight years or so. When I did, something strange happened. I realized that I had missed it more than I knew.
Other areas of America have become more open to snowmobilers over the past decade. But, you know something? Yellowstone is still snowmobiling's grand-daddy destination.
And now that I try to get back to Yellowstone once a season, I've discovered a couple of things. One, Yellowstone hasn't changed. I've changed. I can appreciate it more. Two, there are many things to do in the Yellowstone area.
Most importantly, though, Yellowstone is much more than the Park and the towns adjacent to it. Yellowstone is a sense of winter that you get when you feel those first cool breezes of autumn. The ones that come on a gray cloudy day and hold just a titch of moisture that makes you look at the sky and wonder if you're going to get an early snow. And Yellowstone is the end of winter that you recognize as warm Spring sun and mud puddles that keep getting bigger as the snow continues to vanish. Yellowstone is winter as only snowmobilers appreciate winter.
Over the years we've found a variety of places to stay, from full blown resorts to Mom and Pop motels. Eateries range from fancy sit-down restaurants to greasy spoon joints that serve up about everything from gravy and biscuits to hamburger platters. We even found a spot that lets you grill your own steaks.
Variety is a staple in Yellowstone country. If you get bored, it's because you aren't trying to have a good time. Ask a guy who learned the hard way- and missed out on a lot!
Because the Yellowstone area is so huge- encompassing parts of three pretty sizable western states- we're going to break down this special Yellowstone travelogue into three sections: Montana, Wyoming and Idaho. Let's start in West Yellowstone, the most familiar jumping off point for most American snowmobilers.
Montana
West Yellowstone is the most familiar and easily recognizable town name in all of snowmobiling. Because it shares part of its name with the national park, West Yellowstone is sometimes thought to only offer sedate "park" riding. That's not true. The local folks can take you into areas that'll make flatlanders flat-out cringe. Believe me.
The town of West Yellowstone is called the "Snowmobile Capitol of the World." It is situated at the west gate of the park and, because it is such a popular summer tourist destination, it was only natural that it should become a haven for snowmobilers.
If you go into the park, you must include a day trip into Old Faithful. This will be about 60 miles round trip. You'll find a rest and coffee stop on the main trail. At Old Faithful you'll find a restaurant and fuel for your sled.
Earlier this year we made the trip on Yamaha SnoSports and had a gas. We were well under the speed limit. Yes, the park has a speed limit- and it has been known to be enforced! So, be advised.
Outside of the park is the fabled Two Top Mountain with its wind-blasted crest and snow-crusted trees. This is a must ride for the first time visitor.
Just outside the village are ample places to ride. We discovered a number of close-in "photo opportunities" by the old airport strip. This is where the locals and visitors tend to face-off or at the very least see if their clutches and carbs are set up properly. It's a wide open area with a long straightaway. Take caution here and be aware of those around you. Accidents have been known to happen among the hot rod set.
You can follow the trails, which are pretty well marked, or venture off into various play areas. Watch out for the tree plantations. They are definite "no-nos" for snowmobilers. Do us all a favor and stay out of them. They're marked off so there is no excuse to be in them.
Travel along the Big Sky trail which will take you into the famed ski area. This is about half way between West Yellowstone and Bozeman. That trail is on our next agenda.
By the way, heading out of town toward Big Ski is a place called "Eino's." This is the little bar and grill where you can prepare your own steak. If you're going to be in West Yellowstone for a number of days, plan a stop there. Don't take a convention along. The place gets very crowded with more than a half dozen full-suited snowmobilers and their gear.
In town, we'd recommend the Stagecoach Inn. It's undergone some renovating since we were there this Spring, so it can only have gotten better. The lounge serves virtually anything you can imagine. As we discovered, it can be a lively place on St. Patrick's Day!
We'd also have no trouble suggesting The Ranch either. The food is top quality, reasonably priced and the owners helpful. After dinner, there is apt to be live entertainment in the lounge. We particularly enjoyed the "60s" group they had the night we were there. The owners tell us that the group has added to its list of '60s hits. We'll see!
Three Bears is a nifty little restaurant that serves up a very tasty breakfast and a hearty lunch. The place closes for dinner. But one of our favorites when we start feeling a little stingy around dinner time is the truck stop/diner located in the middle of town across from the local Polaris dealer. If you like biscuits and gravy or a good inexpensive dinner, try this spot. Nothing fancy, just honest vittles!
Idaho
It may be hard to imagine, but when you visit the Yellowstone area, you will most certainly ride in Idaho at some point. If you travel past Alice's Restaurant, you'll have a chance to get on the trail to Island Park, which has about 600 miles of groomed and marked trails. Most of these trails will be in the Targhee National Forest.
Wyoming
This is the other side of Yellowstone. Snowmobiling has really developed on this side of the park in recent years. As I said in the beginning, if you get a little bored with the "traditional" aspect of Yellowstone, head east a bit. If your impression of the west is one of majestic mountains and towering snow-capped peaks, then this side of the park is where you want to be.
A real west flavor is gained on the east gate side. This side of Yellowstone is growing in popularity as more and more people look for new ways to enjoy the Yellowstone area.
Yellowstone is only a part of what Wyoming has to offer. There are more than 1,100 miles of snowmobile trails in Wyoming. And that's not the half of it! Those miles of trails take you to vast play areas that you'll remember for years to come. Like much of the western snowmobiling experience, Wyoming offers countless mountain meadows with deep powder snows to test your skills.
A Final Thought
One of the things that helps us enjoy going back to Yellowstone season after season is the simple fact that once you get to know the people, their places and the area, it's hard not to want to see old friends again. It's also fun to make new friends. If you go to this area, do us another favor and let us know about any old or new spots that we may have overlooked. We'd like to pass on the info to other American snowmobilers.