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BIG HORNSHalfway across northern Wyoming, midway between South Dakota's Black Hills and the majestic Rockies, the Big Horn Mountains beckon to snowmobilers during the winter season. High enough to capture plenty of snow, scenic enough to please the eye, and full of trails and play areas, the Big Horns deserve a place alongside some of Wyoming's more well-known snowmobile meccas.
My jumping off point was the city of Sheridan, on the east side of the Big Horn range. This is a frontier town that's proud of its cowboy heritage, with plenty of historic places to satisfy any sightseer. It's also the headquarters of Big Horn Safari (800/598-9692), a year-round business that caters to recreational visitors, and specializes in made-to-order snowmobile outings. "We have a variety of packages for all kinds of riders," says Mona Hansen of Big Horn Safari. "We provide guides and arrange lodging at an assortment of establishments, whether you bring your own machine or rent one of our mountain sleds."
Four of the most popular overnight places are the Best Western Sheridan Center (a motel right downtown), the Old Stone House (a deluxe bed and breakfast in Ranchester), the Arrowhead Lodge (a mountain lodge in the heart of the Big Horn National Forest), and the Ranger Creek Guest Ranch (an assortment of cozy cabins in a scenic valley).
Up in the mountains, there's plenty of great riding to be found, whether on the superb 290-mile system of marked and groomed trails, or via cross country excursions. Big Horn Safari's local guides are skilled riders and knowledgeable pathfinders.
Last March, photographer Bernie Rolstad and I spent four full days exploring this area with our guides, logging over 100 miles each day. Not only did we get to see the trail network in the northern part of the Big Horns, but our leaders took us on an assortment of off-trail odysseys as well.
Our initial base of operations was the Arrowhead Lodge, situated right on the main trail alongside U.S. Highway 14. An overnight snowfall made the first day's riding a delight. The terrain was a mix of open meadows, broken pine forests, and craggy ridges, with hidden creeks and snowy draws separating them. We crossed Granite Pass and enjoyed lunch at the Antelope Butte Ski area, then made a trip to the aptly named Freeze Out Point, where blowing snow dropped visibility to zero. As we slowly navigated our way back to the lodge amidst the intermittent whiteout conditions, I was reminded how having a knowledgeable guide can be a true lifesaver. Our guide was Jess Winfrey, and he brought us back safe and sound.
Day two was another all-day ride, with the benefit of plenty of that fresh snow. This time we headed south, to lunch at Ranger Creek Guest Ranch, and then beyond to a spectacular clifftop lookout. On the return, we enjoyed plenty of powder, and our guides treated us to some amazing displays of mountain riding prowess on their long track Ski-Doos, before we retired to our accommodations at the Old Stone House in Ranchester. Jack and Gerry Brinkers were gracious hosts who made sure we enjoyed every aspect of our bed and breakfast experience there.
Our third day was another good one, with guide Jason Ruby leading the way to the northwestern corner of the riding area. The first stop was Fiberglass Hill, this spot is popular with visitors and locals alike, who find it the perfect place to test their hill climbing mettle. Since the last twenty yards are the steepest and deepest, not everyone makes it to the summit, and the hill's name speaks of those who've fallen short -- and then far. Jason demonstrated proper technique as he roared upward and then over the top.
After the Hill, we toured the Devils Creek trail. Good snow conditions allowed us to climb Little Bald Mountain, a peak that rises to an altitude just ten feet shy of 10,000'. Large areas of untracked powder made this a play area par excellence. At one point, Jason and I got stuck just eight feet apart, necessitating some digging, but it's all part of the mountain experience. "If you don't get stuck," he said, "that means you haven't really been riding!"
The Big Horn Mountains are always ranked high as a snowmobile destination, and it's easy to see why. The snows are plentiful, the trails are superb, and there's plenty of room to explore the backcountry as well. Big Horn Safari (800/598-9692) specializes in offering great packages, and they'll handle all the details, so you can relax and enjoy yourself thoroughly.