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The Trans-Canada Highway groans beneath a convoy of late-model pickups loaded with the hottest sleds of the season. The line of trucks slowly winds through the mountain pass, snaking along the Columbia River, moving toward the interior's famous sledders' paradise: Revelstoke, British Columbia.
As the entourage descends upon the mountain town, my husband and I quietly veer off toward Arrowhead Lake, down the road less traveled.
When the snow banks resemble skyscrapers and the paved road gives way to gravel, we know we're on the right trail. Eventually a small, weather- beaten sign barely visible under snowplow debris, let's us know we've arrived in deep snow territory. It reads: "You are now entering the limits of Trout Lake, unincorporated."
A friend's recommendationEarlier in the week, a friend let it slip that there was a place tucked in the Selkirk Mountains, far from the hustle and bustle of the Revelstoke crowd. In this legendary place the snow falls an average of 60 ft. in the alpine, yet no one takes advantage of the mountain treasures. How could we pass up an opportunity this amazing?
Trout Lake was once a prosperous mining city during the gold and silver rush of the early 20th century. Thousands of prospectors flocked to the area in hopes of staking claim to their fortune. It was during this time of abundance that the 15-room Windsor Hotel opened its doors.
Now a century later, after years of hardship during the 1920s and '30s Depression, the booming city has dwindled to a mere 25 year-round residents. However, the Windsor continues to host many adventurous guests wishing to reap the rewards of the land; only these adventure seekers aren't looking for fortune, they're looking for snow.
We certainly found it.
"My guess is 8 inches in the last few hours," Jessee Nixon shouts from the hotel porch, as we pull up to the Windsor. Nixon and wife, Andrea, bought the Windsor in the summer of 2006, and have since been exploring the region for the ultimate sledding experience. That's what their wintertime guests are looking for too!
"This is where the best alpine sledding is," Nixon says, pointing to an area on the giant topographic map covering our table. "And this is where you're going to want to head tomorrow." His finger rests on an area known as Foggy Day, which was named after a mine, "not because it's a foggy location," Nixon assures us.
As the sun rises over Trout Mountain, we power through the unbroken trail that leads to Foggy Day. Trees and snow fly by as we climb the old mining road up 10 miles of switchbacks and a 6,000-foot vertical climb eventually breaking above the alpine and up into the bowl overlooking the colossal peaks of the Selkirk and Bugaboo Mountains.
The day is a blur of steep, heart-stopping hill climbs and cliff drops. For every new bowl we discover and ride, another waits around the corner with fresh snow and steep vertical climbs. Unfortunately our bodies can't keep up with our egos, so we finish the day with a tour up to an old, derelict mining cabin with the help of one of Nixon's famous hand-drawn maps, before calling it a day with a home-cooked meal and an early night.
The next day we give our bodies a slight break by heading to one of the area's mellower locations. But of course mellow is relative to the area.
Rue de Beau is an open plateau, overlooking town. The climb might not be as steep as Foggy Day, but 5,000 ft. from top to bottom is nothing to complain about for good uphill running. We spend the day taking full advantage of the massive snowfall, with deep powder boondocking and laps of wide-open meadow. Before we know it the sky turns pink and we head back to load up our truck.
On the way back I can't help but wonder, "How is it possible that terrain and snow this spectacular haven't become overcrowded with sledders vying for prime riding?"
In the end I decide I don't really care. The longer this place stays secret, the longer I can sled without anyone getting in my way. Trout Lake lives up to its legend and leaves me breathless and wanting more, with more than 200 miles logged over the weekend and fresh powder the entire time, I can't imagine a better weekend.
"People say Revelstoke is one of the best sledding places in the world," Nixon says, as we head out the hotel's door, for the 3-hour drive back to Kelowna, B.C. "Trout Lake is better than Revy so it's the best kept secret out there."
I couldn't agree more, but I guess this means the secret is out.
For more info about Trout Lake, or for accommodations, call Jessee Nixon at the Windsor Hotel at 250-369-2244.