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The ominous shadow of a snow-covered rock bluff hangs over the edge of Lake Superior. A snow drift- cloaked by the shadow of a barren oak- erodes as relentless gusts of wind carry its top ridge to the center of the lake. Columns of snow dust dance across the open ice as the aching shoreline pines creek with an eerie dissidence. A light in the distance gives hope to six snowmobilers circumnavigating the lake. It takes them to their destination, the Gunflint Lodge- a warm place to rest their heads.
This is just one day in the lives of six snowmobilers from Sheboygan, Wisconsin, who completed a 1,414-mile, 9-day trip around Lake Superior, the largest freshwater lake in the world, February 5-13, 1994. Crusaders included Tony and Greg Hoffmann, Mike Schleicher, Dean Hau, Gary Specht and Ron Navis.
Each snowmobiler has his own reasons for taking the trip, but Navis and Tony Hoffmann best describe the sentiments of the group. "It was something we've talked about and finally decided to do," says Navis. "We've been riding for a number of years and all of our trips seem to have gotten longer and more difficult. Some people said it was impossible so we said we wanted to give it a shot." Hoffmann adds, "I have gone around part of the lake one way and part of it the other way. It was fun to go the whole way around and go where no man has gone before." The rest of the story is retold through a culmination of memories of three of the six snowmobilers.
As with any excursion, pre-trip planning set the tone for the adventure. A mutual agreement to not quit despite the strenuous nature of the trip was derived in response to others' skepticism. "A lot of people said we would never do it," claims Tony. "They thought we needed a support crew. It was agreed that if a sled broke down the rider would be left behind. We also agreed to kick in $10 to help the guy get a bus ticket home. We're a hearty group, so we had no problem making it."
To reduce the risk of misfortune, the men brought a first aid kit and extra supplies such as skags, belts and plugs. From the onset, the crew was prepared to travel in remote territory. Tony contacted chambers of commerce and located gas, food and lodging accommodations around the lake. From gathered materials the group deduced that day two would be one of the most difficult portions of the trip. Knowing that they would have to travel 150 miles without a place to refuel, individuals carried extra gas with them.
Another way the men made the burden of a long trip easier was to divide mutual supplies. "We didn't want anyone to double up on anything," says Tony. "I had a socket wrench set, ropes and vice grips. Another guy might have carried a hammer, tree saw and screw driver." Personal gear was packed individually. Tony, for example, installed overload springs on his Arctic Cat, and welded a 24" x 30" x 8" luggage rack for the back of his sled. Navis packed high energy food which he saved for the evening or other times he needed a boost.
When the trip began, the Sheboygan snowmobilers' expectations proved to be lenient. The trails were rough and poorly marked. The following entry, made in Navis' journal, tells of the crews trials:
Saturday, Feb. 5 Harvey Wright (who gave the group directions) said it is about 150 miles to Wawa, Ontario, with about 40 miles of bad trails and the rest is worse. The trail became so awful… that we were riding between trees so close that the machine just fit through.
Specht, like Navis, found the trails to be crude and poorly marked. "One Canadian rode with us for 35 or 40 miles and left us by saying 'good luck.' When we got to the end of the trail we were supposed to follow the highway ditch until we saw the lake. When we got there we were supposed to see the smoke of the Red Rock Paper Mill 30 or 40 miles away and follow it. They (the Canadians) have nice maps, but some of the trails on them don't exist. They are trying to improve the system, but they have a rough job ahead of them."
Unexpected trials came for individuals as well as for the crew. On the second day of the trip, Specht broke the ring finger on his left hand. "I took it and pulled it out and taped it to my little finger," he says. "What else are you going to do in the woods?" When the snowmobilers reached Wawa, Specht visited a doctor and was advised to pull out of the trek. Motivated by Schleicher, who rides with a hook in place of his hand, Specht ignored the doctor's advice and decided to complete the journey.
Although extreme cold was expected, it caused problems for the six friends. Specht recalls having to stop and melt the frost off his eye lids. Hoffmann swears that most days dropped to 30 or 40 below and only reached as high as 20 below. Navis recalls a cold day in Silver Bay, Minnesota. "On day seven we arrived in Silver Bay at about 10 p.m. Mike Schleicher and I were talking to a guy from town and I noticed that Mike's hand, which was replaced by a hook, was white with frost."
Despite unforeseen difficulties, the group was pleasantly surprised with the hospitality it received. Specht noted that the Canadians went out of their way to help. When he came to town with a broken finger a lady ran to the hospital to get an Ace bandage. Navis tells of another Canadian who hauled the six companions and their sleds 170 miles from Wawa to Terrace Bay because the trail was treacherous and impassable. The Ontario Snowmobiling Federation and Terrace Bay Chamber of Commerce welcomed Navis and his friends to town. They were given packages that contained pins, maps and chamber of commerce promotions. "The people there treated us like we were part of the group," he comments. "In Canada when you sit at a table, everyone that comes in the door is welcome at that table. We were welcome at the table."
Good memories will be passed on to fellow snowmobilers. Hoffmann will tell how group members left clothes behind to avoid repacking them. He'll also tell of the night the men thought they were lost until they saw the light of the Gunflint Lodge. Navis won't stop recreating the night the crew sat in an outdoor hot tub when it was 31 below. It will be impossible for Specht to not boast of the beautiful scenery the group drove through. "The mountains and trees were beautiful in the desolate areas," he claims. "There were no buildings around, but the white trees all around were gorgeous." Navis and Hoffmann recently shared a handful of memories with their hometown snowmobiling club. They displayed an 80-picture slide show, but the best memories cannot be shared.
"It was more adventure than I expected," explains Specht. "You never knew what was going to happen next. It was exciting. I sure would like to do it again."
Good memories will be passed on to fellow snowmobilers. Hoffmann will tell how group members left clothes behind to avoid repacking them.