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We are outfitted with gear- boots, snowmobile suit and helmet, by our guide. She briefs us on our Polaris Indy 440s ensuring that each of us is familiar with its operation. Then our guide- in a quiet, serious and sober tone- warns us of the dangers of glacier snowmobiling. Andrina has not lost anyone on the Myrdalsjökull glacier and she has no desire to- at least not today.
The Myrdalsjökull glacier crawls out of the mountainous interior toward Iceland's rugged east coast. The interior, unless you have a specifically-built four-wheel drive vehicle, is inaccessible. Inaccessible and uninhabitable, populated only by moss-covered volcanic rock residing in a landscape carved by earthquakes and raging glacial rivers.
The European and North American tectonic plates diverge in Iceland. This island country, about the size of Kentucky, is literally being ripped apart by the same violent seismic forces which separated Europe from the Americas millions of years ago. And as this intense seismic activity continues today, much of it is centered beneath two of Iceland's glaciers: the Vatnajökull and the Myrdalsjökull.
The Vatnajökull and the Myrdalsjökull glaciers are two of the largest non-polar icecaps in the world. Their sheer size makes for a venerable snowmobiler's playground. Then, mix in Iceland's year-round moderate temperatures along with its easy accessibility and some would be tempted to consider this snowmobiler's heaven.
From a distance, the Myrdalsjökull glacier looks like a lumbering, benign giant. Glacial fingers gently meander their way through mountain passes reaching for the sun-drenched valleys below. Up close, it is violent. At its face, jagged bergs of ice break off exposing boulders captured thousands of years ago. Glacial melt rushing from the foot creates a torrential river capable of carving out canyons and destroying anything in its path. Fissures, sometimes 100 meters deep or more, seem to open and close at will, daring to swallow passers by who venture too near.
In 1996, the Bárobunga volcano erupted beneath Vatnajökull glacier. Lava broke through ice 1/2 kilometer thick, releasing nearly 3,000 billion gallons of water. Fortunately, nothing laid in the path of this torrential flood other than power lines, a few bridges and Iceland's solitary highway, Highway 1, which circles the country. The highway has since been repaired but the volcanoes remain active.
It now appears to be Myrdalsjökull's turn where Mount Katla has begun to rumble. The eruption, however, was not large enough to break through the ice. But Icelanders do expect a major eruption to occur some time very soon. Road signs, posted by the government, warn that a major eruption is imminent. Travelers on Iceland's Highway 1 are advised not to leave the main highway because of the possibility of Myrdalsjökull's Katla erupting and the flood of water, ice and molten rock which will follow.
Myrdalsjökull is the glacier we will be snowmobiling.
After our briefing, I politely ask our guide whether we "Should be concerned about riding over a volcano which is expected to erupt at any time?"
Our guide smiles at us, confidently replying "The scientists tell us a preliminary earthquake will give us about an eight hour warning before any eruption." As she pauses I'm beginning to feel a bit better about our snowmobile trip. But then she hesitantly adds, "Well, at least that's what the scientists think, no one is really sure."
And with that, we fire up our engines. Our guide hits the throttle and our group cautiously follows- unsure what to expect.
There are no permanent trails on Iceland's glaciers, you make your own. More accurately, the glacier makes new trails for you. A glacier floats over the earth below it. Collisions with mountainous terrain creates stresses in the ice which must be relieved. Glacial shifts can cause sheer walls of ice to explode through the cap. Crevices and cracks appear, disappear and reappear again. Myrdalsjökull has its own personality: it moves as much as one meter a day; its topography constantly changes; and at times, it speaks to you.
Andrina has been guiding snowmobilers on Myrdalsjökull for over five years. She knows the glacier well but remains cautious, aware the glacier is a natural force that can neither be controlled nor easily predicted. Mistakes on glaciers can be unforgiving.
Andrina explains that anytime during the year snow can cover crevices. And in the late summer, dirty snow, left by a glacial melt, can become a deceptive mask blurring the contrast between the ice cap itself and a dangerous crevice. Geothermal activity beneath the ice cap can further complicate glacial navigation. Hot spots causing undetected melts below the ice's surface can force quick, unexpected shifts in glacial ice. Over the years, the guides have learned how to read the stress in the ice. Though it can't be predicted, they generally know where new crevices are likely to appear.
Our guides, utilizing Global Positioning Systems (GPS), have mapped out a number of snowmobile routes on the glacier for us. Reading their GPS units, the guides will lead us across the glacier on one of the most exhilarating and dramatic rides we will likely ever experience.
We find our Polaris sleds effortlessly skip across small crevices as we race across open ice. Ice walls and cliffs greet us as we come up over glacial hills. Large fissures force us to find a new route. We cruise glacial ridge lines and climb to higher elevations inspired by breathtaking views at every turn and every stop. The Polaris underneath me is familiar, a model I have ridden several times in Minnesota's northwoods. In no time the glacier begins to feel as comfortable as the trails back home.
After a relaxing lunch stop on the glacier, we're back on our snowmobiles scooting across the glacier. To the south and east we're afforded magnificent views of the expansive desert-like glacial washes, black sand beaches, and the Atlantic Ocean beyond. Behind us are views of Iceland's vast interior, a remote and forbidding land.
We all sense we've discovered something very special. This might be one of the best, easily accessible year-round snowmobiling grounds in the world.
From our base, a heated mountain cabin on Myrdalsjökull glacier, we can snowmobile for five days without ever crossing the same ground. Similar opportunities are available on the Vatnajökull and Langjökull glaciers. Iceland's glaciers offer snowmobilers thousands of kilometers which can be easily explored, promising a new and exciting adventure every time out.
Glacier snowmobiling in Iceland is unlike any experience you will ever have. Standing atop a glacier is like being atop the world. Other than us, there is no sign of humankind. The powerful forces of nature, evident as we ride across Myrdalsjökull, have forged an undeniably rugged and raw beauty we will never forget. As we leave Myrdalsjökull glacier, I feel as though we have left behind a good friend.
Iceland's weather is influenced by the Gulf Stream. Though near the Arctic Circle, Iceland has fall-like temperatures year round. Unfortunately, for our group, the occasional hurricane or tropical storm which reaches the North Atlantic tends to follow the Gulf Stream toward Iceland. The remnants of one such hurricane hit Iceland's southeast coast and the Myrdalsjökull glacier. Winds in excess of 90 knots created blizzard-like whiteout conditions on the glacier, halting all air traffic, and cutting short our snowmobile trip.
But even so, we plan to return to Iceland this spring for what is promised to be ideal snowmobiling conditions- assuming the volcano doesn't blow before we get there.
You can snowmobile Iceland's glaciers year round. The best snow conditions, however, can be expected March through June. May and June are ideal times of the year because of the extended daylight. In June Iceland experiences nearly 24 hours of sunlight, thanks to its proximity to the Arctic Circle.
There are several Icelandic snowmobile outfitters which can be contacted directly. Trips in duration from one hour to several days or longer can be arranged with any of the companies listed below. Each outfitter generally provides all the equipment you will need including snowmobile suits, boots and helmets- but ask to make sure. You will also find nearly all Icelanders speak excellent English, especially those in the tourism industries.
Geysir Snowmobile Expeditions offers snowmobile tours on Myrdalsjökull and Langjökull glaciers throughout the year. They also offer winter trips to Iceland's rugged highlands area (the interior) from January through April (March and April are the best times of year for a highlands trip). Telephone 354/568-8888. Fax 354/581-3102. Website: www.geysir.is
Glacier Tours offers guided snowmobile tours on Europe's largest ice cap, the 8,300 square kilometer Vatnajökull glacier, from March through October. Telephone 354/478-1000. Fax 354/478-1901. Website: www.eldhorn.is/glaciert
Add Ice is based in Reykjavik, specializing in winter Jeep and snowmobile trips to the nearby Landmannalaugar highlands area. Telephone 354/588-5555. Fax 354/588-5554. Website: www.vortex.is/AddIce
When calling Iceland from the United States you must first dial the country code 011, then the phone number listed above.
From the United States, Decker Sno-Venture Tours based in Wisconsin offers all-inclusive guided snowmobile trips to Iceland. Telephone 715/479-2764. Fax 715/479-9711. Website: www.sno-venture.com
One last important note, in Iceland snowmobiles are referred to as snow scooters. Icelanders consider a snowmobile to be what we would refer to as a snowcat. So when making arrangements with your Icelandic guide, be sure to ask about a "snow scooter" trip. Otherwise you're likely to find yourself crammed into a small, box-like snowcat with six other people- each struggling to peer out a little window at a boundless glacier undoubtedly meant to be a snowmobiler's playground. Wouldn't you rather be snow scooting?