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There's some great riding to be had in Wisconsin, but not always where you'd expect. In a state that boasts 23,000 miles of funded trails, there are countless locales where the scenery is inviting and trails abound. With more than 500 snowmobile clubs statewide, there are some outstanding areas that offer great riding.
One of those lesser-known, but excellent, venues is Buffalo County, a rolling wonderland of forest and farmland that has the Mississippi River as its western border. This rural county, found to the north of La Crosse, offers a variety of scenery and an outstanding trail network. There are about 270 miles of funded trails, with a variety of routes and loops that make backtracking unnecessary. That's what I look for in a snowmobiling venue and I wasn't disappointed here.
This part of the Badger State (roughly its southwestern quadrant) is known as the "Driftless Zone," a large area untouched by the glaciers that scoured the rest of the state and left hills of glacial drift, or gravel, in their wake before disappearing. The Driftless Zone is characterized by older landforms, primarily rocky hills and meandering valleys that cover the landscape for miles.
My friend Gary Parsons and I had the pleasure of touring the county at the end of February when a late season storm had covered the pastoral landscape with a foot of fresh snow. We arrived the next day and found the trails ready for exploration, heading out from the town of Mondovi in the county's northeast. Our plan was to make a clockwise circuit and see as much as we could in a single day of riding.
We set off southward on state corridor Trail No. 33, crossing the Buffalo River in town before heading into the countryside, where a mix of hills and coulees made for a pleasant roller coaster ride. After a half dozen miles, we reached the sleepy town of Gilmanton, where we spotted an Amish horse and buggy parked in front of the feed supply store as we slowly motored by.
We continued toward the hamlet of Praag and enjoyed more ups and downs over even bigger hills. Along the way, we encountered numerous bald eagles, both mature and juvenile. The majestic raptors, visible from a distance, were perched in tall barren trees. As we approached, they flapped their wings and took flight, circling overhead as we passed. This was only the first of several wildlife sightings that included a raccoon, wild turkeys and deer.
A missed turn-off sent us east into neighboring Trempealeau County, where we skirted the town of Arcadia before turning back into Buffalo County. This unplanned side excursion probably added about 25 miles to our day's mileage, but the riding conditions were so good that we didn't mind.
With lunch now on our minds, we again headed south. Our goal was Fountain City, a quaint, historic town on the Mississippi River where we knew we'd have some lunch choices. The ride into town was a fascinating journey with numerous elevation changes, including a twisting, snow-covered road that was carved into the hillside. The descent took us from the upland expanse behind the bluffs all the way down to river level as we entered town. A spur trail took us along the railroad tracks and riverbank into the heart of Fountain City, where we parked the snowmobiles and walked to the Monarch Tavern for a hearty lunch.
After refueling both our bodies and our snowmobiles, we resumed our journey by heading north for the towns of Cochrane, Alma and Nelson. Now we were in the broad expanse of the miles-wide Mississippi River valley, where the agricultural land was flat and the groomed trails were as much as 30 feet wide, allowing for some quicker running. For a number of miles, our route paralleled the river and the BNSF Railway main line, giving us the opportunity to watch a couple of freight trains pass on their way between Chicago and Saint Paul.
North of Cochrane, the trail left the valley and went upcountry again, taking us back into the undulating terrain that makes riding in this area such a pleasure. Here we encountered the Buffalo County groomer, hard at work fine-tuning the already excellent trails. By the time we reached Nelson, the sun was getting low. A quick stop at the Top Hat Tavern allowed us enough time to relax briefly and enjoy a soft drink before mounting up for the journey's last leg.
The setting sun bathed the bluffs in soft orange as we headed homeward, first north and then east on our way back to Mondovi. As the shadows grew longer and the dark enveloped us, we passed numerous dairy farms where the evening milking was underway.
Before turning east for the run back to our starting point, our route entered Pepin County. The trail wasn't bad, but even in the dark it was immediately obvious that we had left the smoothness of Buffalo County's groomed trails. As we bounded over the rolling farm fields, the lights of Mondovi finally came into view, signaling the end to our grand circuit of the county.
What a trip it was! Our all-day adventure totaled 171 miles and most of it was on a smooth and well-groomed trail. As our exploration proved, when the snow cover is sufficient, the quality of riding here is very high. This undiscovered treasure deserves consideration as one of Wisconsin's most enjoyable places to ride.
Thanks to the clubsThe outstanding snowmobiling in Buffalo County is due to 7 snowmobile clubs who obtain landowner permission, erect markers and maintain the trails. Thanks to the:
• New Glenco Drifters
• Hilltop Trailblazers
• Waumandee Trailblazers
• Mondovi-Gilmanton Sno-Blazers
• Alma Snodrifters
• River Valley Riders
• Nelson Pop-a-Top Club