raising the bar

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Stock handlebar height and positioning does not fit all riding styles, conditions and sizes of riders. Not even close.

For years, riders have wanted an alternative to aluminum riser blocks. Polaris attempted to conquer this market with it's Rider Select system and now Arctic Cat is taking it on with their Infinite Rider Positioning system but what about those of us who can't afford a bran new machine? Monster Works Inc.'s Motion Bar Riser System is a quick-adjust, in-the-saddle system is the answer, and a leap forward in comfort and control.

The system's parallelogram design provides a huge arcing range of handlebar position/height adjustment, and it fits most sleds. Riders constantly change riding positions on the seat, shifting weight from side-to-side and forward and aft. In one day, a Midwest rider can ditch bang, trail cruise, high-speed trail ride, boon-dock and more. Likewise, mountain riders face a variety of different conditions and terrain.

This riser system needs only a turn of the adjuster lever to slide the bars to a new position. The change manipulates the sled's ergonomics, and transforms the handling dynamics. The rider, the single heaviest component on a sled, has the ability to more effectively transfer weight, and thus aid handling.

On a typical stock sled, you can only rotate the handlebar angle into a compromise position and make the best of it or add a new set of bars with a taller rise. Billet aluminum handlebar riser blocks arrived 10+ years ago, but only raised the bars directly above the steering clamp.

The Motion Bar Riser System bolts to any sled made in the last 25 years, so it opens ergonomic comfort and rider position options to a whole new market.

Made of CNC-machined T6-6061 billet aluminum, the system fits 7/8-inch handlebar tubes with a 4-bolt clamp, and a system is available for 1 1/8-inch tapered bars. It's offered in three heights (6-, 8- and 10-inch) for trail, mountain and almost every other application. The 6-inch system provides 6 1/2 inches of adjustability, the 8-inch unit supplies 9 1/2 inches and the 10-inch delivers 12 inches. Each system weighs about 3 lbs.

Real world versatility
Our test sled, a 2002 Arctic Cat ZR500 Cross Country, came with a 4 1/2-inch riser block. I opted for the 8-inch system. This setup would provide the ideal positioning for stand-up ditch banging and exceptional versatility on trails.

Over northern Minnesota's trails, the Riser System's true character was revealed. Slotting the handlebars into the middle position (about 3 inches above stock), the bars assumed a higher, more natural and comfortable position for my 5-foot-10 frame. With the bars higher and closer to my upper body, I was able to gain more control and with less effort. I could use more of my body and less of my arms, which helped prevent fatigue.

But one of the most rewarding benefits was a shift in riding dynamics. Since the handlebars were positioned farther forward, I had the ability to sit more forward on the seat. This riding position helped to isolate me from bumps, and allowed me to transfer more weight to the front end for more aggressive handling and increased confidence.

Changing the handlebar position was a snap, but had to be done when the vehicle was at rest. A plastic adjuster lever over a slotted adjuster cam allows the rider to lock and unlock the system. With about half a lever turn, the system quickly unlocks. By applying a light push or tug on the bars, it offers near infinite adjustability within the 9 1/2 inches of arcing range and glides into any position.

The pilot then cranks the lever down about a half turn to lock the system in place. Depressing a button on the lever allows the rider to rotate the lever around the cam. The lever needs to reside in a position that's parallel with the Riser System because the lever must never come in contact with any part of the sled when it's operating. That could cause the steering to lock and you to lose control. But Monster Works carefully designed the lever for this contingency, says co-owner Jan Bowers. If the adjuster lever comes in contact with the sled, the lever will break if enough force is applied, he says. Replacing the lever is much better than loosing control.
 
I also set the bars in the lowest position and moved about 5 inches back on the seat into a trail cruising position. With the system parallel to the bottom of my ribs, it required only a minimal input against the bars to point the sled in the intended direction.

Immediately the steering required much less effort, plus the front end's grip was much less aggressive. I was able to thread through twisting trails with minimal steering effort. This position worked for seated trail riding, but was not desirable for most other types of riding.

In the full upright position, I stood and easily handled 2-foot bumps. With the bars closer to my chest, I felt I had more leverage over the bars, which allowed me to ride with more confidence and comfort.

In addition, I didn't risk racking my knees against the bars if I made a mistake or was thrown forward. In fact, the Riser System can be adjusted to extend 2 inches farther forward than the steering clamp. This gave me the ability to apply more of my body weight to the front end, which produced impressive front-end stick for slicing through corners.

In the fully extended position, the bars were positioned slightly below my shoulders and were too tall to sit and ride. After a few miles of trail riding, my shoulders started to get sore.

Most riders opt to go with a Motion Bar Riser System that's taller than stock. If you do, your sled's cover may not fit. You may have to modify it or get a larger one. I used a large generic full cover that had enough room to accommodate the increased handlebar riser height.
 
Conclusion
Riders - casual to hardcore - will appreciate how much the Motion Bar Riser System improves comfort, control and ultimately ride quality. If you ride in the same position all day and traverse one kind of terrain, a stock handlebar setup will do just fine.

If you seek out or encounter a variety of riding conditions, the versatility and flexibility of this system to match the handlebar position to the conditions is indispensable. I have multiple riding personalities - from trail cruising to all-out mogul running and everything in between. The Riser System suited each during a day's ride.

If you have several riders using the same sled this system will accommodate their different heights and ergonomic preferences. If you spend most of your time trail riding, I'd opt for the 6-inch system. However, if you spend more time standing up, ditch banging, I'd stick with the 8-inch system.

Installation
Installing the Motion Bar Riser System is incredibly simple. With a socket set, Allen wrenches and a torque wrench, it'll take most enthusiasts 20-30 minutes.

Note, the difference between the stock riser and the Riser System's height may require brake and throttle cables and wiring extensions.

I quickly separated the Velcro and slipped off the handlebar pad. Then using a standard Allen wrench, I strong-armed the 5/16-inch Allen bolts retaining the top clamp caps. Once removed, I noticed the bolt threads had a white residue. I would soon realize why.

I cut the zip ties that secured the wiring to the clamp and unfurled the additional wiring. The throttle cable was routed through the middle of the stock block, so I removed the cable from the throttle lever and collar. I gently lifted the handlebars with all the wiring attached and placed it on the hood.
  
Removing the 4 bolts on the bottom of the stock riser block was tough. After a titanic struggle, I wondered if King Kong would have had enough strength to turn these bolts. I accepted that there was no way to remove the bolts with hand tools.

So I removed the seat and gas tank to give me enough room to access the bottom of the clamp. With the clamp exposed, the bottom bolts quickly spun out under the torque of an impact wrench. The culprit: the steel Allen bolts had chemically reacted and corroded inside the aluminum riser block. To prevent a recurrence I coated the bolt threads with Never-Seez compound.

From this point, the install was a breeze. I simply reversed the procedure to put everything back together. I threaded the bottom mounting bolts through the mounting caps into the Riser System and snugged them. Then I gently lifted the handlebars on top of their new perch. I was impressed that the Arctic Cat brake line, throttle cable and most of the wiring was long enough to go from a 4 1/2-inch riser to an 8-inch riser block. Only the handlebar warmer wires weren't long enough for the new system, but a simple wiring extension remedied that.

Once I had determined the handlebars were in the correct position on the clamp, I tightened all the bolts. However, the handlebar pad and plastic console pieces atop the tank would require some modification to fit the Riser System.

After a quick check of all the work, and making sure the handlebars could turn the whole range, I was ready to hit the snow.

Thanks to Monster Works Inc. More info: www.monsterworks.ca, 780-963-1847

SPECS
Motion Bar Riser System
Materials: CNC Machine T6-6061 Aluminum
Size: 8-inch System
Range of Adjustment: 9 1/2 in.
Mount: Four-bolt clamp, 7/8-inch bottom mount, 7/8-inch handlebar tube mount
Price: $365 US/$410 CA