install an slp single pipe

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So you think that aftermarket single tuned exhaust systems play second fiddle to the big twin pipes in terms of horsepower gains huh? Well, it's time for you to re-think your opinion.

How does 25 horsepower from a Starting Line Products (SLP) single tuner on an Arctic Cat M1000 sound? When I heard 25 extra ponies could come from a bolt-on application, I thought, WOW! Then my buddy told me the kicker, it'll save you 15 lbs. over the stock pipe. DOUBLE WOW!

That's all it took for me to call Jerry Matthews, operations manger at SLP.

"Is it true?" I asked. "Oooh yeah," was the reply. "Can we do an install?" "Yes." So we took time off from our day jobs, gathered the parts and went to work. Luckily the SLP instructions are straightforward with helpful illustrations.

Here's how to boost your power.

Step 1:
Remove the stock pipe, silencer and y-pipe. Don't forget to back out the temperature sensor. Save all mounting hardware, springs, rubber insulators and exhaust doughnuts. A good spring puller will be helpful too.

Step 2:
With the stock pipe removed, it's time to do some cleaning. I find that WD40 works well, as it removes grease and grime from under-hood parts. A word of caution, with the y-pipe removed, there is direct access to the cylinders. Stuff some rags in the exhaust ports to protect them from any foreign material getting in and causing damage.

Step 3:
With a 3/16-inch drill bit, drill out the top inside rivet from the outlet deflector. Rivet the supplied spring tab into place, pointing at the 3 o'clock position. If you do not have a pop rivet tool, substitute the rivet with a ¼ x ¾-inch bolt and self-locking nut.

Step 4:
Run a generous bead of high-temp silicone - SLP recommends Permatex Ultra Black 598 - around the outlet hole. Install the silencer using the stock washer and hairpin clip with the supplied spring.

Step 5:
Apply heat tape to the right side of the fuel tank and coolant bottle. Install y-pipe to motor.

Step 6:
Zip tie the coolant overflow hose to the gas tank.

Step 7:
Set the pipe in place and check for fit, but don't spring it in place as we will be removing the pipe for the installation of the required Boondocker control box. Some minor hood modifications may be needed to fit the pipe.

Step 8:
Installing the Boondockers system is a snap, just remove the stock connectors at the injectors and snap the Boondocker connectors in place. Then, follow the color-coding on the factory wiring as well as the color-coding on the control box wiring harness.

The PTO are the green/brown wires, and the MAG has yellow/tan wires (or the shorter length connector to the MAG side). Now, plug the grey stock injector plugs into the control box's black connectors. A chassis ground also is required near the PTO side injector.

Step 9:
Determine where you want the control box. I like it near the handlebars because this makes for easy access, but others prefer under the hood to be stealthy. Whatever your choice, carefully route the wires and avoid moving parts and high-heat areas. A dose of heat tape around the fuel rail also wouldn't hurt; this area sees a lot of heat.

Step 10:
Now we can install the pipe. Don't forget the factory exhaust doughnut for the y-pipe and silencer, and re-use the factory springs. Also, apply some anti-seize compound on the threads for the locking nut on the heat sensor before installing the heat temp probe.

Step 11:
Before we fire this puppy up, the control box needs to be programmed. Boondocker has supplied a 9-volt battery jumper connector, which allows the controller to be programmed prior to start up.

Here again, read instructions carefully and if you don't feel totally confident in this area, it's OK to contact a professional at your favorite dealer. A mistake here would be costly in terms of engine damage. SLP provides preliminary numbers for initial programming.

Step 12:
Before start-up, SLP recommends wiping the ceramic-coated parts with brake cleaner to remove oil smudges to keep them from burning on and staining the finish during initial start-up. While on the subject of ceramic coating, not only does it look good and provide a durable finish, it also holds in heat, which makes for added horsepower. Clutching suggestions are available from SLP, and we installed a set of the firm's MTX clutch weights along with a black/yellow spring.

All done
The leaner, meaner M1000 is now ready for a test ride, and SLP recommends using richer settings to start off with. This engine now requires a minimum 91-octane fuel, so don't use the wrong stuff. For those of you living in areas that have oxygenated fuels, the programming will require you to add or richen your fuel setting.

What's all this going to cost?

In the '07 SLP catalog, the pipe retails for $600, the Boondocker fuel management system is $418 and clutch weights are $66.64 per package of two. Total cost is $1,151.28, plus about 2 hours of your time - including
clutch recalibration.

I appreciate this pipe's near stock sound too. It keeps me off the radar of those who want to limit sled use due to what they consider noise pollution. It's no secret that last year's staff favorite was the M1000. In stock form at 167 hp, it pulled hard. Now, at 192 horses, it plain rips. If you can't feel the immediate difference, you don't deserve this sled.

I've ran SLP pipes on several sleds since 1998 and have found the fit, finish, durability and performance to be second to none.

As for the Boondocker control box, it has opened a whole new world in terms of tuning. Last January we rode the SLP prepared M1000 along with a Polaris 700 Dragon fitted with a SLP single tuner. Look in the upcoming January issue for the annual Mountain Mod Evaluation for rider impressions of these sleds. In addition, I will discuss clutch calibration for SLP's MTX clutch weights in an upcoming issue.

For more tuning notes, refer to our January 2007 issue, where Tech Editor Olav Aaen wrote on electronic tuning. The article can also be found here. For more SLP info: www.startinglineproducts.com.

SUPPLIES NEEDED
- Anti-seize compound
- Black RTV sealant
- Brake cleaner solvent
- Rags, zip ties
- Lock tight
- Pop rivet tool
- SAE and metric tool set
- Propane torch
- Spring puller
- 2mm Allen wrench
- WD40