how to make your clutches run straight

Align your sled's attitude. Start with the clutches.The signs that testify your clutches are misaligned lie mostly with the belt. If there is uneven wear on one side of the drive belt, if the belt's edge cord is broken, or if the belt flips and tracks upside down (clutches are really out of whack), the truth is told.

If aligning the clutch is weird to you, hey, load up your sled, poke it in the dealer's face and say "help me." End of story.

But, if that is not good enough, then we will do the snowmobiler thing and figure out how to do it ourselves.

We will report about clutch alignment using tools from Sno*Lite Technologies, Rexburg, Idaho. Additionally, belt care and performing mid-season checks and cleaning will also dress out this report.

Clint Hansen, who runs Sno*Lite, builds some aftermarket alignment tools as well as long track and rolled chain case kits for Ski-Doo MX Zs and selected models of its competition that 'bilers can purchase.

Clutch alignment is no mystery really. It is a matter of taking the time to care for your sled and its performance. Alignments come by adjusting the motor mounts, if it is apparent the motor is dogged to one side; or by adjusting the drive or driven clutches proximity to the motor by using spacers or shims.

Here is a quick and simple guide to clutch realignment.

1. Remove drive belt.
2. Create zero belt deflection (the belt's vertical, up and down movement inside the drive clutch) by backing off belt deflection so that the driven clutch fixed half and sliding half touch each other.

3. If equipped on your make and model, loosen torque limiter rod as shown in figure one, items one and two.

4. Ensure clutch spacer or spacers are in place between jackshaft bearing and driven clutch.

5. Place alignment tool down into drive clutch and behind the driven clutch sheave (closest to the motor).

6. Push the driven clutch tight toward the tunnel to ensure no clearance is present between driven clutch and spacers. Here, Hansen says, up to four horsepower can be lost at peak RPM if the clutch floats on the jackshaft.

7. Loosen motor mount bolts on the motor's bulkhead. Depending on make and model, the air box or exhaust pipe may need removing to gain access to the bolts.

8. Once the bolts are loose, adjust motor so the drive clutch and driven clutch sheaves touch or pinch the alignment tool, as shown in the figure for contact points one, two and three.

9. Tighten motor mount bolts.

10. Tighten torque limiter rod, if loosened.

11. Install drive belt and readjust belt deflection to factory specifications.

Need a quick fix? Here are a few simple steps to check your clutch over for a mid-season tune up.

1. Remove the belt and check for improper wear, broken cogs or fraying.

2. Steam clean the clutches with hot water. Don't use soap, as soap is hard to completely rinse away and the residue will attract belt dust. This in turn wreaks havoc on the bushings. Don't be afraid to use a steam washer on a snowmobile, sleds are quite the aquatic vehicle. Think about it.

3. If the belt is horribly worn discontinue this process, align the clutches (per this guide or by following a repair manual) and install a new belt. Wash the belt before installing. If the old belt is OK, reinstall.

4. Place the snowmobile's rear end on a jackstand or raise the sled on a lift.

5. Start the sled, throttle up the motor and spin the clutches and track for two to three minutes allowing the clutches and belt to warm. Give ample time for the water to spin out and evaporate. A little bit of advice about running a motor without load: blap the motor for good measure, avoid one strong steady speed- don't redline the motor. No use disintegrating a piston or cylinder head for a clutch look-see.

6. With finger and eye, check the drive clutch roller bushings and weight bushings. If the bushings or weights are not free moving, the bushing or weight pins are worn or under resistance from gunk. Replace bushings or pins, or give another thorough cleaning. Brake cleaner can be used.

7. Using fine-grit emery cloth, sand the clutch sheaves. Clean the sheaves with brake cleaner. Wipe away residue with a rag.

8. If recommended by the manufacturer, lubricate bushings or pins.

9. Lower snowmobile, get it on the trailer and get out of Dodge.

A quick word about belts

A little knowledge about the clutch drive belt may stretch the belt's life and lower the mortality rate of the clutches.

Many dealers report that manufacturer-designed and sold drive belts are more forgiving to clutches than aftermarket belts. This may be a matter of opinion or experience, since the aftermarket folks generally make the belts for the dealers. However, a former Yamaha and Arctic Cat engineer (who chose to remain anonymous) once said that manufacturers patent the belt angle, width and length to match the exact tolerances, measurements and angles of the clutch.

This engineer reported that aftermarket belts are generally slightly wider or narrower, or slightly longer or shorter with different angles than OEM belts; all to avoid a patent infringement - if a patent was placed on a new trick state-of-the-art clutch. If not, the dimensions will be the same. The engineer said most of these different measurements are unnoticeable. However the different dimensions can be adjusted out.

One must also be aware that clutches will eventually shape the belt to their needed dimensions through sustained use, even if those dimensions are from misalignment. This anonymous engineer also said that about 300 miles on an OEM belt is almost equal to 100 miles on an aftermarket belt. Again, this may be a matter of opinion and experience.

Before installing a new belt, bathe it in a sink with warm water and dish soap, one that strips oil and grease from a frying pan. Wash the belt well and choose an old rag or dish towel to wipe it dry. Washing the belt will free it from its casting powder and fine rubber dust that will find its way to the clutch bushings. If this junk finds its way to bushings, premature wear occurs