how to bring fuel along for the ride

 In algebra, several formulas are needed to figure such things as time, speed and distance. Some modern day cars have computers that tell the driver how much fuel remains in the tank and how far the car will travel before the well runs dry, based on a miles-per-gallon average.

Fuel tanks for mountain snowmobiles are increasing in capacity. Many years ago as a lad, I remember fuel tanks had a whopping five-gallon capacity. This size was easy for the manufacturers to build because the public stored their extra fuel in five-gallon tin cans.

The Saturday morning ritual went as follows: pour a quart of two-cycle oil in the fuel can, pull the filler hose down from the bulk fuel tank, fill, shake, pull the filler cap off the sled, slide in a funnel and pour the pre-mix in the snowmobile. Simple, cold, stinky and messy.

As time tripped on by, the manufacturers looked for simple but salient features to keep the public interested in the sport, and to steal customers. The seven gallon fuel tank came on-line. Farmers didn't know what to do.

"Let's see, if five-gallons almost fills the snowmobile, then with another two gallons left..., hey Martha if one quart of oil is dumped in five gallons of gas, how much oil do I put in the can for only two gallons? Dang, I'll just buy another five-gallon can, mix up 10 and fill up the sled."

Fortunately, oil-injection cured the headaches of figuring "how much of that damned oil goes in the can."

Not to be left alone, the snowmobile builders pushed the limits up to 9.5 and 10 gallon tanks. "Dang Martha, who wants all that weight anyway; I can barely pick up the back end."

The 10 gallon capacity stayed for a while. Then snowmobiles started losing weight. Tracks and suspensions improved, and then Polaris hung that blessed
tunnel extension out the back end of certain models and gave us the Snow
King Special ? SKS to its friends.

Now, demand for deep backcountry riding became an obsession. Guys were
grabbing bungee cords, shock cords, ropes and bailing twine to tie their new Rubber Maid gas cans on the back of their SKSs.

Time marched on, hill banging and boondocking grew in popularity. Soon the little jugs were thrown away for larger ones. Some riders started carrying two or three. Some settled on tying empty anti-freeze jugs to the sled.

The manufacturers started listening to their dealers and western sales reps about the backcountry boys wanting more room for fuel.

Soon we started seeing 11, 12 and 13 gallon tanks. (Some heavy-duty utility sleds, such as Arctic Cat's Bearcat Widetrack have a 15 gallon tank.) Yet, the mountain man still wasn't happy. Thirteen gallons is OK, but he still straps on the little red moonshine jug.

Before moving on, it must be said that designing today's large capacity fuel tanks is not a simple engineering feat. Keeping a sled balanced by configuring the seat, cockpit, chassis and tunnel to accompany the larger fuel cell took homework and patient engineering. Let alone keeping the rider from feeling as though he were riding a pregnant Clydesdale.

Over the past several years, as mountain sleds grew long tails, aftermarket companies, machine shops and backyard welders started making spare gas can racks. Aluminum, chromoly and tubular steel are used to build these auxiliary fuel can holders.

Some mount cleanly, some gaudy and some cover up the rear tail lamp-which makes a driving hazard.

Before we discuss how to install a fuel canister rack, a few other reasons need to be laid out as to why a 'biler would want one for his sled.

Some who climb to the nose bleed section with a turbocharger stuffed on their go fast toy require special fuels. Most often, these boost-happy sleds fire on aviation gas, racing fuel or a mixture of such with a high-grade premium. These exotic fuels can't be found at your local Chevron or trail side "fill'er up" station. Better to pack fuel in rather than pack the sled out. High compression motors also have the same fuel needs as turbos. Regardless, pre-mix or racing fuels are not easily accessible.

When choosing the right style rack, consider capacity, some will hold a 2.5 gallon jug, some four. If a rack has a high platform- to keep the canister from covering up the tail lamp- the jug will catch the driver's leg as he swings it around to balance both legs on a running board for sidehilling purposes. Likewise, if the rack has a deep well, the jug will hide the tail lamp.

Some drivers have taken the time to remove the stock tail lamp assembly and install it to the rack with a custom-built light mount. Some riders purchased an Arctic Cat Powder Special rack and mounted it to their other brand sled. This gave them a deep well, a tail lamp and wiring.

Also, consider a rack that has eyelets that will grasp a bungee cord hook. For personal preference, purchase one that is durable, powder coated and light. No use adding weight and ugliness to your $7000 rollercoaster.

When adding an aftermarket rack, do the following.

1.) Place the rack on the tunnel extension and mark the mounting holes.

2.) Ensure the holes will not drill through any rivets, coolant hoses or heat exchanger.

3.) Drill the holes.

4.) With the proper length mounting screws, fasten the rack to the tunnel extension.

 

For those who ride a short track sled, carrying extra fuel is a challenge. The OEMs can carry wide and deep saddle bags that either mount over the fuel cell, or on the seat back. These hard- or soft-sided saddle bags can hold an antifreeze jug full of fuel.

Before stuffing a fuel jug into a saddle bag, wrap the jug in a plastic bag, and make sure the lid is wound on tight. This method will meet the needs of a thirsty sled, a sled with special fuel requirements or day's ride where two days' worth of traveling were crammed into one.

One last thing, packing some extra fuel may help in a critical situation such as being stranded in the frigid cold. A few drops on wood, and a fire can lend its hand to give warmth. Also, if your buddy is low on fuel and the distance is far, both riders can get closer to their destination.