glacier country montana

It's January 29: Super Bowl Sunday. The San Francisco 49er's are 20-point favorites over the San Diego Chargers, but the betting frenzy continues. At 35,000 feet over the wrinkled Black Hills of South Dakota, a traveler enroute to Missoula, Montana, has more important things to bet on, namely that the giant albatross lands safely.

It's late afternoon when he lands at the Missoula airport and the big game is about to begin. But the Super Bowl is benched quickly when compared to Seeley Lake, a six-foot deep powder playing field. After two months of little snow across the rest of the snowbelt, 72 inches of winter pavement is a royal treat. Even in snow-scarce winters, northwestern Montana remains an ideal spot for snowmobiling. Known as Glacier Country, this area provides an unspoiled scenic winter playground for novice and expert snowmobilers.

Glacier Country
Shaped like an inverted triangle, Glacier Country borders Idaho to the west and British Columbia, Canada to the north. Cities nearest the angles include Troy in the northwest, Cut Bank in the northeast and Darby in the south. Major territories within this region include the Blackfeet Indian Reservation, Glacier National Park, Flathead Valley and the Flathead Indian Reservation. These areas are well known, but for the best secluded snowmobiling head toward Seeley Lake, Stryker, Montana, and the Yaak River Valley.

Seeley Lake
Approximately 50 miles northeast of Missoula, Montana is the town of Seeley Lake. Tucked between the Mission Mountains to the west and the Swan Range to the east, this town of 800 provides snowmobilers with 15 groomed trails that literally begin at the back doors of many rustic resorts and motels.

One option is to ride through the only portion of the Missions open to snowmobiles. These trails run on the Flathead Indian Reservation, so snowmobilers need to pick up special recreation permits at reservation gas stations and convenience stores before riding through.

The Boulder Trail, which starts just off Highway 35 near Finley Point on Flathead Lake, is popular. The first 10 miles are groomed to the top of the Mission range, where the trail connects with nearly 60 miles of ungroomed trails. Meanwhile, the ungroomed Jocko Lake Trail provides a 35-mile ride over the Missions. It connects with groomed trails on the Seeley Lake side.

Just off the Morrell Rice Ridge Loop, west of Crescent Mountain, is Morrell Falls, a site worth traversing to. Half frozen, half flowing, this cascading mass of water and ice is a translucent magic kingdom.

For those looking for a full day of challenges, the 90-mile round trip from Seeley Lake to Holland Lake will not disappoint. The first few miles on the Seeley Lake-Ovando trail are easy, but the difficulty of the ride increases on West Morrell-Ridge Loop and Richmond-Clearwater Loop. Watch for drifting and be wary of avalanche conditions. The last seven miles on Owl Creek Road require average ability, but provide more than average scenery.

Where to Eat
When the sun falls and scenery is shrouded in darkness, the best site to seek is the Elkhorn Cafe in Seeley Lake. Entrees from prawns to burgers are sure to please, but whimpy appetites will be overwhelmed by the mammoth portions carted to the table. Charlene's Burger, for example, is half-pound burger drowned in onions and cheese. The only problem is that the burger dwarfs the average-sized bun. If you still have room, make sure to order pie; the only disappointment may be that the slices are too big to finish.

After dinner, the quiet town unwinds. Doors are shut. Lights turned off. A few taverns stay open, but the beauty of Seeley Lake is that it provides a snowy playground by day, a sleepy sanctuary by night.

Where to Sleep
Wapiti Resort and Elkhorn Motel are located one mile north of Seeley Lake on Highway 83. The Motel and Annex have a total of 13 double rooms with two twin beds and seven single rooms. From the front, the main complex looks like a cross between a bunkhouse and fort. Its log siding gives it a rustic and comfortable feel. Rooms are cozy and clean with private hot water heaters. Although few visit this area to stay inside, televisions are available. For $30 per person per night or $40 per night per couple, Western comfort is affordable.

Behind the motel sit seven modern cabins and two rustic cabins (no indoor plumbing) that accommodate three to seven people. These log dwellings are quaint on the outside and spacious on the inside. For privacy, all cabins are neatly tucked behind trees. Rates per couple run $40 to $90 per night. Group rates start at $130.

All Wapiti Resort/Elkhorn Motel guests are invited to tour Olde Town, the historic village built on the original site of Seeley Lake. For $5 per person, guided tours will show off the four-bunk jail, the two-room school house, chapel, old-time bar and carriage house. The Olde Town saloon and chapel may be rented for $1,000 per day for weddings. Two Semi-private rooms in the saloon run $100-$125 per night per couple.

Wapiti Resort and Elkhorn Lodge provide snowmobilers with backyard access to excellent trails that lead to superb snowmobile playgrounds with hills, bowls and tons of deep, powdery snow. Wapiti Resort, PO Box 565, Seeley Lake, MT 59868 • 406/677-2775.

Guide/Rental Services
Beginners and experts will appreciate the services provided by Montana Vacations Inc. President Emery J. Johnson not only rents Polaris snowmobiles, but also guides tours. Heading north on West Morrell-Rice Ridge Loop, 1.5 miles north of Seeley Lake, Johnson will put experienced snowmobilers on a 30-mile trail that showcases both the Mission Mountain and Swan Ranges. Lucky snowmobilers will see the jagged crown of Crescent Mountain breaking through the morning fog. Contact Emery J. Johnson of Montana Vacations Inc. at 406/677-2518 or 406/677-2833.

Flathead National Forest and Whitefish Range
About 130 miles northwest of Seeley Lake, Stryker, Montana, is nestled still further into the heart of Glacier Country.

Snuggled into the Whitefish Range- northeast of the Kootenai National Forest- is Loon's Echo Resort, the only private property held in the Stillwater State Forest. Each morning, guests at the Loon's Echo wake up to the calls of loons drifting on the lake. Put another log on the fire and heat some water for coffee or tea before dressing in winter wear and hitting the trails that start just off the porch.

Road 900, "The Mount Marston Road" leads to the ungroomed trail that runs parallel to the Stillwater River and winds up the mountain to the Mount Marston Lookout. This area is full of deep snow bowls and fields for playing in, but riders are cautioned to be aware of avalanche areas.

The valley below offers a variety of terrain for rookies and veterans. Novices can learn to go through the deep powder without getting stuck, while experts can try to make their mark on hillsides. Although the round trip between Loon's Echo and Mount Marston is only 14 trail miles, it's easy to put on 40 hard-riding miles or more in a day by heading to the valley to play.

The best reward for a long day of play is a big steak-and-potatoes dinner. Less than fifteen miles north of Stryker, on highway 93, is Fortine, Montana, home of Jerry's Saloon and Meadow Creek Golf Course. Here, as in Seeley Lake, the portions are so large they're nearly impossible to finish without bursting. However, the meat is so juicy and tasty few plates go to the kitchen without being wiped with bread.

When the table is cleared there are two excellent ways to spend the rest of the evening: Sit, talk and laugh in the friendly den-like atmosphere or move to the lounge and try video poker or keno. (A tip: A quarter a pull may produce large dividends, but more credits are possible playing a nickel at a time.) It's an easy trip back to Loon's Echo, especially knowing there's a hot tub and comfortable bed waiting.

Morning won't come soon enough if the next day's snowmobile adventure is to Upper Whitefish Lake on the Olney trail system. A handful of off-trail clearings provide ample play areas. Moguls are big, but deep powder provides a soft landing. Those who opt to ride trails will find scenery worth stopping for: Sheer ridges and rolling hills come together; straight-spined, snow-covered Lodge Pole Pines make green and white polka-dots as far as the eye can see; and the crisp, clean snow remains unbroken in most places. It's pure beauty.

Loon's Echo Resort
In 1909, the resort's original owner William H. Schrader, a traveling shoe salesman from Washington, came to the area and began selling Eastern Brook trout out of Stryker. Much history passed between then and 1986, the year the current owners bought the property and restored it to working condition. Then in 1991, Ed and Gayle Hynes reopened the year-round resort.

Sitting in the shadow of Stryker Ridge, overlooking Fish Lake, Stryker Peak House is the largest rental unit at the Loon's Echo Resort. Two bedrooms, a large sleeping porch with two beds and pullout couch in the living room make this an ideal shelter for a group of 10. The wood stove pumps out a comfortable amount of heat during the cooler months. Peak House can be reserved for $1,300 per week or $188 per night from December through April.

Trapper's Cabin, the smallest unit, sits on the site of the original cabin used by fur trappers in the late 1800's. Guests enjoy an up-close view of Stryker Ridge and even closer view of Fish Lake. It's hidden from view of the Stryker Peak House with a rock wall in the winter and flowers in the summer. This cozy cabin for two features a wood stove and propane oven/range. Winter rental (December-April) runs $500 per week or $71.42 per night.

Vern's Cabin and Fish Lake House are also snuggled near the banks of the lake. Vern's sleeps two to four, while Fish Lake House accommodates up to eight. Winter prices run $600 per week or $85.71 per night and $1,100 per week or $157.14 per night respectively.

The old and rustic is being matched by the new and majestic. A new 9,000 square-foot, five bedroom lodge opened this July, and includes a hot tub, dining room, library, game room, swimming pool, laundry room and a 14-acre fish pond stocked with trout and open exclusively to guests. Loon's Echo Resort, 1 Fish Lake Rd., Dept. AS, Stryker, MT 59933 •406/882-4791.

Yaak River Valley
The only way to find a more pure level of unspoiled beauty and ruggedness is to head west to the Yaak River Valley. In the winter, extreme weather conditions force road closures, making the a 90-mile trip in summer to almost 150 miles. The beauty of the expansive mountains and deep blue waters of Lake Koocanusa makes the journey worthwhile, even if it requires northwest travelers to head southwest before going north again.

Located in the midst of the Kootenai National Forest, just over 30 miles north of Troy, Montana, the Yaak River Lodge is a secluded haven for snowmobilers. Only about three percent of the land in the forest is held privately. There are no crowds, no downtown and a few dozen people. The biggest local hangout is the Dirty Shame Saloon, only about two miles from the Lodge on Highway 508.

Walk into the Yaak River Lodge, a western-style flat, where a wood-burning stove chugs out gentle heat and the rugged smell of smoke. Behind the stove hangs a black bear rug across the room from a knotty-pine bar. All of the rooms have unique decor, but the most interesting one is the jungle room at the end of the hall. It's covered with furs and rugs of exotic animals. All five of rooms share access to an outdoor hot tub and indoor sauna. Winter rates (December-April) are $50 per day per person and $25 per day per additional person. Board is $25 per day.

Service is the middle name of lodge owners Gloria Racine and Donald Belcher. When morning comes, pile all your dirty clothes under the room sink and by afternoon they will be washed and folded. Order a breakfast and it will be ready at any reasonable hour. The same is true for dinner.

As dawn breaks, plot a route that will provide a rugged and breathtaking adventure. Take Pete's Creek Road, Beetle Creek Road, North Creek, Spread Creek and Spread Creek Divide to Buckhorn Ridge. Beware! Wildlife isn't shy. Moose cows and calves are common along the side of the road as they cross on their way to a grazing area. A widening on the trail is an excellent place to pull over and turn around to view Mount Ewing and Rock Candy Mountain.

Buckhorn Ridge provides the barren border between Montana and Idaho. Trees are sparse, but the view is endless. British Columbia, Canada, approximately 10 miles to the north is easy to see, just beyond Northwest Peak in the Purcell Mountain Range. The phrase, "Purple Mountain's Majesty" might as well have been coined here along with the words "vast," "awesome" and "inspiring." These mountains also make for a demanding ride up the ridge. Motoring up 45 and 60-degree angles requires full throttle and a steady hand. Off-trail riding may mean getting stuck two-feet deep in five-foot snow.

For those who prefer a more gradual ascent, head north on Pete's Creek Road instead of going east at Beetle Creek Road. This is another good spot to find moose along the trail. Less than six miles north is the international border between Montana and British Columbia, Canada. A short ride off the beaten path will put a trail blazer a few steps away from a 10-foot wide clear-cut that distinguishes the United States from Canada.

After a long day of snowmobiling there's nothing more enjoyable than sitting a spell in front of the fire or enjoying fresh air while sitting in a hot tub and waiting for dinner. And dinner is worth the wait: oven-baked chicken, peas, piles of mashed potatoes and gravy. Come early and come hungry. There's enough to satisfy a lumberjack's appetite.

A warm bed awaits at the end of the day. Before jumping in, don't forget to move the basket full of folded clothes that were washed while you played.

Renting Snowmobiles
Because hauling snowmobiles through the rugged and windy mountains is difficult, the best snowmobile may be a rented one. In Stryker, contact the Loon's Echo Resort at 406/882-4791. In the Yaak River Valley, John Church, a retired Forest Service contract administrator, has well-conditioned late 1980s models for rent. Call 406/295-5858.

What else to do
If you or your body tires of snowmobiling, there are plenty of activities that satisfy nearly every taste. Big Mountain Ski Resort is located in the heart of Glacier Country on Highway 93 about 20 miles south of Stryker and only 19 miles north of Glacier International Airport. Montana's largest ski destination, Big Mountain, covers more than 4,000 acres and provides a variety of terrain for everyone.

January and February are busy months in Seeley Lake and Missoula. The Seeley Lake Annual Winterfest runs during January 12-14. Marquee events include an ice sculpture contest, parade, dog sled rides, poker run, fireworks and wild game supper.

Wait until the last weekend in January and be treated to the Seeley Lake 200 Sled Dog Race. Meanwhile, the Frost Fever/Winterfest in Missoula runs from the end of January through the beginning of February. Events include snow volleyball, softball, football, ice skating and family activities. At the end of February enjoy the Grape Expectations Wine and Food Festival at Big Mountain and Glacier Snowmobile Ice Drags at Columbia Falls, less than 10 miles east of Whitefish.

Last, but not least, there are casinos and smattering of slot machines scattered across the region.

For more information on Glacier Country contact the Glacier Country Regional Tourism Commission, Box 1396, Dept. 507-10-21, Kalispell, MT 59903, or call 800/338-5072.

Snowmobilers who seek a change of pace and scenery will find Glacier Country much to their liking. The mountains provide extreme challenges for the expert and unmatched scenery for the casual snowmobiler.