6 top tech tips

We consulted some of the best stock setup gurus in snowmobiling for their favorite tricks to get the most out of their sleds. Not surprisingly, most of their tips focused on making the drivetrain operate smoothly and efficiently. Take a gander at these quick and easy steps to getting the most from your sled and don't tell your buddy what you've done. He'll be wondering what happened the first time you line up and dust him.

1. Clutch to the correct engine speed. If you're interested in just drag racing for short distances, you'll want to identify where the top of the torque curve is, and set your clutching up to hit it. If your pleasure is for longer runs where top speed is important, set your clutch to hit the peak horsepower mark. Either way, the clutch calibration from the factory is not going to handle the job. It's a good compromise setting, to keep the majority of consumers happy.

2. Use the correct belt and set it up to the correct deflection. You must use the recommended belt size for your sled. A long belt will not seat all the way down into the primary at idle, causing a virtual low end bog. Likewise, when you get up to shift out, the belt will not pull completely into the secondary, resulting in lost top speed.

A short belt will have similar effects. At engagement, the belt will already be pulled partly into the secondary. When you get to full engine speed, the belt will not get all the way to the top of the primary, again resulting in lost top speed.

Each sled has a specific amount of deflection, or tension, recommended for the belt. This is a measurement taken when the sled is off. An easy way to measure deflection is to place a long straightedge on the top of the belt, spanning from the primary to the secondary. Using a stiff ruler, apply about 10 pounds of pressure on the belt at the midway point between the two pulleys. The measurement between the straightedge and the depressed belt is your deflection. Consult your owners manual for the correct amount of deflection for your sled, but 1-1/4 inches is a good rule of thumb. If you do not have the correct deflection with the clutches properly spaced, it may be time to replace your belt.

3. Check your clutch's offset and center-to-center distance. The offset is the spacing relationship between the primary and secondary pulleys which allows the moveable sheave to go through its entire range of travel. The correct offset will keep the belt straight and true in its rotation. If your offset is incorrect, the belt will bend laterally, which may result in premature belt failure, or in extreme cases, the belt may snake its way out of the clutch pulley or flip inside out. Most performance shops offer a clutch alignment tool.

Incorrect center-to-center distance will cause your sled to perform as if your belt is the wrong size. Consult your owners manual for the proper distance, and the best procedure to correct it.

4. Align the track and keep it at the correct tension. Here's an easy power thief to catch. If the track is too loose, it can ratchet over the drivers. If the track is too tight, you'll have too much rolling resistance, which will rob your power. Hook a scale to the center of the track, midway between the tip of the rail and the rear idler wheels. Apply 20 pounds of force and measure how far you can pull the track from the hyfax. Consult your manual for the correct spec.

To correct a loose track, loosen the jam nut on both track tensioning bolts (the little bolts pointing out of the rear idler axle). Turn each bolt clockwise one turn. Check the tension again. Repeat until the tension falls within spec. If your track is too tight, do the opposite. When you're satisfied with the track's tension, tighten the nuts.

With the correct tension applied, check your track's alignment. Keep the sled on the track stand and fire it up. Apply just enough throttle to get the track rotating several times. Hit the kill switch and allow the track to coast to a stop. Don't apply the brake, since it could create false readings.

Carefully measure the distance between the outer idler wheel and the drive lug of the track. You should have equal distances on both sides. If not, loosen the jam nut on the side with the smaller measurement. Turn the tension adjusting bolt clockwise one turn. Tighten the jam nut, rotate the track and take another reading.

5. Ready, set, jet! This is really one of the only things you can do to directly affect your engine's horsepower and remain stock. Each manufacturer has a chart of jetting recommendations for given atmospheric conditions. You'll want to invest in an accurate weather instrument which gauges temperature, barometric pressure and humidity. You'll also need to know your riding altitude.

6. Use the correct spark plugs, and index them. Your sled came with a recommended spark plug. You should use the same kind at all times. There is a reason the manufacturer recommends a particular type, and it has little to do with what was in stock at production time.

You can index your plugs to align the discharge with the intake port. A set of indexing rings is an inexpensive way to get the most bang (literally) for your buck