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Hard to pull over tm1200

brycter

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Has any body else had a tm1200 that is had to pull over? I can only get mine through two compression strokes before it wankes the pull rope out of my hand.

took off the head still feels hard. took off oils pumps worm gear is tight and no shavings or parts when flushed. took apart case all looks good.

my big bore kit is d&d.

Just seeing if anyone else has had this happen.

thanks for your input.
 
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lynxer292b

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Jan 19, 2009
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Is it flooded? With no fuel shut off the fuel can flood the case and make it hard to pull over
 
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spoon

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The magnets in the flywheel on fuelies add to the hard pull. The 1200 Turbo kit is same cranking compression as stock 1000 but due to larger surface area of piston you are compressing that much more air. I have had to put mine in shop to warm up so I could start it before I left and when reached hill it would still start. Can't pull it over fast enough to prime system when it is -10 C. I think I am going to lower compression a bit as I want to run straight pump gas at 5-7 lbs and think the compression is a bit too high for that right now.
 

Woody67

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I have a D&D1200 and learned the hard way not to try to start it without gloves on. It ripped out of my hands once so I got ready got a good grip and gave it another try. Ripped out of my hands again and hurt like a mother. I do not attempt to start it without gloves on. It pulls over hard but thats how it is and it runs great.
 
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speeddemon

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we used to heat the cylinders on the 1500psi motors befor trying to start them . made it a bit ezier . used a lil propane torch . just an idea
mike:D
 

brycter

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I have some decompresion holes in the cylinders. I have ripped the motor all the way down and i think that the break in oil that artic cat put in and my oil was just to sticky. i have cleaned everything up and am ready to put it back together. I understand all the big bore stuff and all the air volumes but when one guy on the pull rope and one guy with a rope on the clutch can't prime the system something is wrong. D&D doesn't know other than dale said that in 2007 artic cat had some cases with to much squish.

another question? how much oil does the worm gear need? I have the pulse filled line from the pto side of the case to the center section. do ya think that this gets enough oil?

What comp are you guys running ? how much squish?

thanks dudes
 

Rogie1220

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I put a primer on my TM1000....just give it 5-6 pumps and it will fire up right away.....may want to try that on yours........
 
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Snowstar

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I have some decompresion holes in the cylinders. I have ripped the motor all the way down and i think that the break in oil that artic cat put in and my oil was just to sticky. i have cleaned everything up and am ready to put it back together. I understand all the big bore stuff and all the air volumes but when one guy on the pull rope and one guy with a rope on the clutch can't prime the system something is wrong. D&D doesn't know other than dale said that in 2007 artic cat had some cases with to much squish.

another question? how much oil does the worm gear need? I have the pulse filled line from the pto side of the case to the center section. do ya think that this gets enough oil?

What comp are you guys running ? how much squish?

thanks dudes

The line from PTO will get enough oil to water pump shaft. Its a good idea to take a small hand pump or suringe with 2 stroke oil and prelube that line first.

You may want to talk to Shain, he took some volume out of the domes on his D&D 1200.
 

brycter

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yeah we were talking the other day about this. he said that you had a jig setup for it. maybe you will be getting my head too! compression is not hp in my setup. it is 10.3:1 right know but cranking comperssion is still 135lbs.

where did you plumb your primer? a primer won't hold fuel psi.
 
H
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Fuel shut-off

I was having the same problem with my 07 m1000, after I let it set and get cold the fuel would seep into the crankcase and would pull like you were trying to hand start a V8. I installed a in-line fuel shut-off and I don't have the problem anymore. Still harder to start when cold but it can be done.
 

brycter

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I tore the engine to ground zero today. Had 30 thousandths run out on pto side had 15 on mag side. Sled only has maybe 30 miles on it. Started to true her up and everything we tried never got us closer. Chocked it up in the leathe. had one crank lobe 8 degrees off and the other 3-4 off. Cool fixed that and trued her up. she is a straight runner now. got motor put back together just kow 3:00 am and i still can not pull it through a compression stroke with plugs in. I have to take out one plug on each cylinder to pull this mother over. Dang i think i threw out my back trying. I'm going to bed ill try in the morning. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Snowstar

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It may sound dumb but did you check the the recoil assembly?

The WP lube line is prelubed just when assembling the motor the first time. Kent would be the one to talk to about machine work on the head.
 

brycter

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Very easy to pull over with out plugs. if the head is off i can push with my finger tips. How much ring end gap is everyone running in these? what size of decompression holes do you guys have?
 

brycter

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Very easy to pull over with out plugs. if the head is off i can push with my finger tips. How much ring end gap is everyone running in these? what size of decompression holes do you guys have? How much squish is everyone seeing? what head stage?
 
I
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I know a guy with a 1000cc big bore cat...he forgot to tighten down one of his spark plugs (it was finger tight) and he knew something was wrong when the sled pulled over like a stock 600. It did fire and run though...I dunno if this could cause any damage but loosening a plug and starting it might be the ticket if it's safe.
 
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