Driveshaft bearing

[mountainhorse]

Sled_Guy


The AL205 is a generic part number... eg AL205 can be a locking collar, pressed on, 20mm bore, 7/8" bore, 1" bore, shielded, sealed, different width inner race than outer race etc...

What is the full part number you are getting for these bearings.

I've checked with some of the biggest bearing houses on the west coast that I regularly use and they actually take time to service the customers.... nothing without a locking collar comes up.

Please let us know when you get that jacksaft bearing on, what the full bearing part number is and some install pics with the greasable flangette if you get a chance

Thanks in advance.

 

[BB454]

Bearing

Kaman said the NTN number is AL205-100 for the 1 inch shaft. It has a 1 inch bore. The shaft has a 1.003 shoulder on it for a press fit. JBL number is SC20516G, I think the G means greasable. I was quoted $16.00 for the NTN. Shows up in their catalog as a snowmobile application. I would just confirm when ordering that it has the holes for grease.
Greaseable flangettes are made by Lutco. Part number G52MSA. The number stamped in the one I have from Polaris is G52MSA4. I believe the 4 denotes yellow finish.

Now to the issue of failure. Sled Guy says he thinks these bearings won't hold up to side preload. If that is the case then it may be a hard one to fix. These bearings are pressed onto the shaft and then captured by the flangette. The inner race is pressed on until it stops against the shoulder. The shaft is then pulled up tight in the chaincase when the gears are applied both top and bottom. If for some reason the tunnel is too wide or too narrow, when you put the 3 bolts in the flangette it will preload side ways on the bearing because it will not self center due to being pressed on the shaft.

It would be a night mare to try to put it together a dozen times moving that bearing back and forth to get it in the right place so there is no side load on it. And at that, will it stay there if it's not pushed up against the shoulder?
On the bottom shaft if you went to the set screw style after machining .003 off the shaft and the shoulder, it would self center. After complete assembly lock down the set screws and you should have no side load.

Top one is a different issue. I believe there isn't enough clearance on the air box for the extended race where the set screws are. If you flip it around so the set screws are out then driven spacing could be off.

If the top bearing is too far outward then you could shim under the flangette to relieve the side load. If too far in, add a spacer under the bearing to shift it out and fine tune it with shims under the flangette. This spacer will also prevent the driven from pushing the bearing in if you run it without a "float". The spacers for adjusting off set push against the inner race.

This probably wouldn't work on the bottom because the flangettes go on both sides of the bulk head panel and if you shim them they won't hold the outer race tight. Set screw may be the best answer.

Holz supplied set screw lower bearings and a spacer for the top shaft in their roll kits for the edge so they must figure that's the way to go.

 

[sled_guy]

Nice info, let's hope it's right. We'll know when the parts get here after they have been ordered and I can do the conversion to see if everything works. I can see a couple of issues.

The flangetts may be a bit of an issue on the top bearing. The one that is there now has studs on it so it's going to have to be converted to bolts like the old Edge was. I don't know if the holes will need some "tuning", I'll have to look at that.

Also, all that stuff about the bottom shaft is not valid on the IQs... the bottom shaft is different than on an Edge with that big hole and electonic pickup and stuff.

My point on failures is that if you don't space your clutch bolt correctly you will put load on that bearing (side load) and it will fail. Everyone thinks you are supposed to have a little slop in your driven clutch on the shaft so it "centers". That's not why, you want the slop/movement so that you don't preload sideways that bearing and cause it to fail. Those little bearings are great in radial loads, but lousy in axial loading.

Hold on for a week or so guys and I'll get the parts and convert the '09 800 over and post some pictures and if it is readily doable. I think it is, but I need to get the actual parts in hand and run through it.

sled_guy

 

[mountainhorse]

BB454....Great work... thank you.

A side note: On the Tubular IQ Driveshaft.. there is no room for a set-screw collar or an eccentric collar. There is only a short nub of a shaft on the PTO side of the driveshaft for the bearing. The tubular shaft sits next to that so there is no room to machine it for the collar...

On the Tubular IQ Driveshaft, we are stuck with the press on bearing.

 

[BB454]

bearing

The NTN bearing has been discontinued. There are a few around at the overstock houses. The JBL is special order. None in the states and no pricing info yet. Still digging.

I still say the driven doesn't side load the bearing. The driven pulls up against the inner race and just squeezes it against the machined shoulder on the shaft.

Looks as though Timken makes the flangette under the same part number.

At least on the bottom bearing on the tubular shaft we have a cover with a grease zerk that we can keep it lubed. Can anyone tell me how much room is under that cover between the bearing and the speedo pick up?