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Dream Sled

polarfox

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I know this will get the opinions flowing, but that's what I'm looking for. I made my first trip to the mountains this year, (i'm from the midwest) and I'm hooked.

I'm seriously considering having a sled custom built. Who would you recommend, and what spec's would you drive towards? I love the way my 06 900 pulls, and would like to consider using that powerplant. It's been TM-3'd by Indy Dan and is very solid. However, the 900's are finicky, is there a better choice? I tend to be pretty Polaris loyal, but I'm not sure why?

So, if you could have it built, who would you use, and what would it be?
 

mountainhorse

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I have had 900's and know a bit about them....

The engine of the 900 weighs about 16 lbs more than a small block CFi.

They do make a lot of torque but the weight and the gyroscopic effect of the crank make the sled much less nimble than its smaller brethren.

As far as shops to build your custom sled from start to finish (not in order)...
Air Design Customs in Boise, Lance Robinson builder
FasTrax Motorsports in Puyallup

My dream sled.... as long as were dreaming

2009 Assault as base
Struthers 860 Race gas, twin pipes but into a silencer (not stingers)...I like em quiet.
Full Indy Specialties built bottom end (bearings, snap ring, blue printing)
Full venting kit
Struthers Clutching
CMX belt drive system
FTX rear cooler add on
Titanium Holz front suspension, stock width.
COBE spindles
Fox Float EVOL 2's if they come out (EVOL, non rebound adjustable)
Sly dog skis with Shaper 4" carbides.
Mitch Evans Carbon fiber hood
Trail tech halogen lighting "frenched" into the hood by Mitch
All steel brackets in bulkhead replaced with high strength aluminum (eg. silencer mount, tunnel braces, drop brackets, shock tower and cross bar)
Custom Power Addiction light weight tunnel sides (Type 3 hard black ano)
Bulkhead and tunnel fully black hard coat anodized (type 3)
Titanium Holz Alpha-X skid (you would have to do a lot of sweet talkin to get this)
Straight, non tipped, Ice Age Rails
Hyperfax
Titanium bolts for the chassis and engine
Nextech Carbon upper and lower idler wheels with NTN bearings
Between the lines designs slide kicks scratchers.
Trail Tanks clear, high cap tank with integrated lightweight seat (skins protective gear)
Camo Extreme 146 x 2.5", 2.86" pitch track (hope to be out in August)
Light weight billet steering bellcranks
Light weight Aluminum steering hoop
Wild Child Cromo steering post
Ti handlebars (no riser, built to correct height), Willwood or Brembo master
RSI high power heaters
FTX throttle block
COBE front bumper in Ti (again... a lot of brown-nosing to get this part)
Full Skinz protective gear bag sets

A 420 lb, naturally aspirated 180HP sled ... oh yea.

All black with simple Assault graphics

One Bad Motha ultimate boondocking machine for a lighter rider.
 
P

pura vida

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mh

that would pretty much be it. but since you are getting mark to build you ti alpha x might as well go with the full ti chassis. i rode one pretty much described has you stated only with the ti chassis, an 840 with a single, and a 159. wow. that about says it all. (although i don't think the alpha or the tcp bumper was ti...)

nice to hear 146" extreme should be coming out. have two people looking to get one. hey do you know if you can do the same with the polaris drivers that the ski doo guys are doing? putting the 3 pitch straight on the 2.86 drivers without issue. obviously without the center extro.

pv
 
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High Velocity

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I also have an '06 900 and wouldn't hesitate to do a lot more mods to it. I absolutely love the torque the 9 makes and mine has been very reliable (especially compared to the new 8's). I personally do not find it "much less nimble than it's smaller brethren". No offence intended MH, but the way my sled is set up and the weight loss program it's gone through, it is every bit as nimble as a new 8. To each, their own. If you like the sled and already have the TM3 bottom end, I say go for it. I know I am with mine. It already has about $5,000 in mods and will have about $4,500 more by summer's end with absolutely no regrets.
 

mtnclimber19

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MH, I see you mentioned the cmx belt drive system. I don't really see any one on here talking about them or using them but have been really interested in them. Have you rode one that someone has put a cmxds on or heard whether it is worth it or not? Sorry, not trying to hiijack, just curious
 

polarfox

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MountainHorse, I see you'd opt for 146" track rather than the trend to go obscenely long. Is long a for us guys the need to compensate? I rode an M-1000 that was like driving school bus that I wished would have split in the middle. It seems to me that power to turn a bigger paddle at high velocity has better results than long and mediocre track speed?

Another Stupid question. What is the Struthers motor based off? Polaris 800?

What is the opinion of a rolling Chasis by the likes of Fabcraft?
 

crf118r

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MH,

Is 180 hp a close guestimate of the Carl's 860cfi power output? I was thinking of something beefy to upgrade to this summer as I ponder my options. I want to run pump gas and get some big hp.
 

mountainhorse

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mh

.....only with the ti chassis, an 840 with a single, and a 159. wow. that about says it all. (although i don't think the alpha or the tcp bumper was ti...)

WOW!!!! sounds wicked....Who has this Ti Chassis? (who makes it or who owns it?)

putting the 3 pitch straight on the 2.86 drivers without issue. obviously without the center extro.

I keep hearing of this and feel it is "urban myth" but I'm always up to learn something new. I have yet to see, pics or in person, a 2.86 driver running a 3" pitch track and the condition of the drivers and track afterward.


pv



I personally do not find it "much less nimble than it's smaller brethren". No offence intended MH, but the way my sled is set up and the weight loss program it's gone through, it is every bit as nimble as a new 8. .... It already has about $5,000 in mods

NO offense taken my friend...You guys know me... I'm a BIG fan of the 900's... I still have my 2008 RAW chassis 155" with a 935 in it and about all of the lightweight stuff you can throw at it without going to Ti bolts and CF hoods... I would put it pound for pound against any other 900 RMK and probably come out on top weight wise... It is no where as nimble as a lesser modified 800 with the same track and front end. MUCH more bottom end though!:D

Swinging a 10mm longer stroke does have a noticeable induced Gyro effect to the sled as it goes thru the snow... that is above and beyond the effects of the 15+ lbs of the 866 CFi. A 900 resists going on edge more than a 800 CFi.

MH, I see you mentioned the cmx belt drive system. I don't really see any one on here talking about them or using them but have been really interested in them. Have you rode one that someone has put a cmxds on or heard whether it is worth it or not? Sorry, not trying to hiijack, just curious

The CMXDS is a wicked system, just REALLY expensive... the belt issues of the past have been put to bed in the last 3 yrs. It is more efficient and has the safety feature of the brake being on the driveshaft....

Not many people willing to pay for the drive system when they can pay the same for a more obvious mod like a great skid (We were dreaming here, right?)

Or have Winter build you a sled. He is taking orders.

Shannon builds some of the cleanest mountain-mods I've ever seen!!

http://snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131522

MountainHorse, I see you'd opt for 146" track rather than the trend to go obscenely long. Is long a for us guys the need to compensate?

I'm a smaller, lighter rider... this 146" would cover me in all but the deepest days...

I rode with Chris Burandt in Feb and he rides the 153 and says it is the ideal track lenth... of course his personal sled is boosted.

If you really want to climb or are a bigger guy, the longer track can do it for you.

I've watched the Slednecks guys ride the Callaghan outside of Whistler on bottomless days on 144's and they rock!!! Might take a bit more work to get to the top, but they have a blast on their sleds.

Different strokes for different folks.

On those rides, I learned that I'm really just a beginner in comparison.

I have the 935 for the really deep days,.... so I'd like the "Swiss Army knife" of sleds for a change... plus, most of my riding is in California... not so much Champaign pow here. Maneuverablily would be the key for me.

Another Stupid question. What is the Struthers motor based off? Polaris 800?
Yep Polaris 800... Jack Struthers is the owner of Carl's Cycle in Boise (Carl Struthers)... they build motor packages that just flat out work and are reliable.

Curt at FasTrax with Doug Ruth also builds motors that put out huge power...

What is the opinion of a rolling Chasis by the likes of Fabcraft?

Fabcraft builds some great rolling, or even turn key sleds... and can put together what you want... I'm not a fan of all of the powder coating of everyting... easy to have 8 -10 lbs in pow coat on a sled compared to the Ano coating that is more durable... but that is my preference... AKA, IMO.

...
 
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H
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Erick its not a myth.. I am running the 3.0 camo extreme on avid 2.86 drivers with zero problems.. I am having a weird issue with my ez-ryde but it has nothing to do with the drivers..

As far as my dream sled..
I would start with an 09 IQR strip it to the bone.
Upfront it would get power addiction a arms and spindles,
Front shocks would be fox evolx
I would take the cross bar in the motor and trade it out for high strength aluminum
Custom Steering post.
Fly bars and riser.
Billet controls.
Wilwood brake and brake handle
simmons gen 2's or slp slts.
Pingle type teather.
large gas tank
power addiction tunnel
fastracks cooler
ez-ryde suspension
hyperfax
MMP 8" wheels.
camo extreme 3.0 3"X162 track
Custom skinz airframe hood
Lastly for the powerplant....

I wanna put a RX1 motor with a Alpine turbo.. (if it fits otherwise BD turbo)

From what I surmize I would have a bullet proof pump gas 250 hp engine that will run forever and is as strong and light as a sled gets these days. If I wanna get 300+ all I have to do is run better gas. It should be every bit as light as brads 1500 maybe lighter.. Man I can see it on the hill now.. All it takes is time and money.
 

mountainhorse

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I've been getting A LOT of PM's from this post...

Just to be clear... Much of what I have listed is NOT actually available from the mfgs... it would be nice, but this is a "DREAM" project so I thought I would dream.
 

LPIdaho

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Mine's a bit more modest.
2009 Assault
Slydog skis
Fox shocks all around (all springs except front track shock)
SLP Pipe and Can
scratchers
FNI venting and such ...
Cobe bumper
Gonna go with the Camo Extreme track too
and
infinite replacement plastic pieces
haha I've broken probably every piece of body plastic on my current RMK
 

Merlin

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MH, I see you mentioned the cmx belt drive system. I don't really see any one on here talking about them or using them but have been really interested in them. Have you rode one that someone has put a cmxds on or heard whether it is worth it or not? Sorry, not trying to hiijack, just curious


It depends on what you consider worth it...............

They are light, they do look cool but just not sure how they would stand up to many miles of riding?

My friend had one that he only put 4 or 5 rides on before the brake pads wore out...........the set-up of the caliper was poor IMO as it allowed the pistons to pop out of their bores when the brake pads became too thin(no grinding to alert you there is a problem - one second with brakes, the next without!)..........That of course caused a complete loss of braking ability which could have proved disasterous in certain situations throughout our day of riding..........

CMX stepped up to the plate and offered better pads which seemed to last longer but considering the cost VS the function/reliabilty of the unit I'd never spend the money on one............BUT there are some people who'd give their left n*t to shed another 5 - 10 lbs from their machine and that makes the belt drive system appealing ;)
 

mountainhorse

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Merlin,

Sounds like a wild ride!!

Sincere question: How long ago did this happen ad what kind of chssis was it in.

It sounds like the caliper failed and caused the pads to drag badly if they wore out so quickly.

Again,
This is on my fantasy list if I win the lotto and cost is no worry... heck... I'd build 4 of them and two with turbos so I wouldn't be afraid to crash em up...
 

Merlin

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Merlin,

Sounds like a wild ride!!

Sincere question: How long ago did this happen ad what kind of chssis was it in.

It sounds like the caliper failed and caused the pads to drag badly if they wore out so quickly.

3 yrs ago.............the belt drive was in a mod. Edge chassis w/Fabcraft tunnel...........the brakes weren't dragging and the caliper didn't fail per se................the problem in the caliper was due to a poor design that allowed the pistons to pop out of their bores...........in other words the pistons had too short of a stroke...................In ANY disc brake arrangement, the pistons should NEVER pop out of their bores EVEN if the pads are down to metal on metal..................

As I mentioned before, CMX stepped up and offered a "better" quality brake pad which seemed to be lasting better than the original pads that came with belt drive but my friend sold that machine before we got a chance to see how long the new pads would actually last..............Unfortunately that still left the less than desireable caliper design...............


I suppose the problem could've been alleviated by making longer pistons and boring the caliper deeper BUT why should anyone have to do that after paying $2500.00???


Perhaps their newer units are made differently???
 

mountainhorse

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Yep... If I had paid $2500 for a drive system and the caliper was not compatible with the rotor thickness, I would be upset..

4-5 rides on the pads.... that is what worries me... I have a sled with 2000 hard miles on it and the pads are still 60% there from new.
 
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