02 mtn cat dies once warm?

[ByDesign]

02 Mtn cat 800 carb.

Bought the sled a few weeks ago and went to ride today with some friends. Let the sled idle in the lot for a while and warm up. Got a little warm but shut it off and let it cool down again. The cooling system had a bubble in it somewhere, so we rode a bit and would stop to check the cooling reservoir and add coolant tilt sled on the side a bit to try and free the bubble.

After the sled was warmed up it would all of a sudden shut to one cylinder and the die. Almost acting like it was choked out. My friend (the p/o) said the sled started to do this when he pinched the choke cable. Choke cable was replaced and set correctly (i think) and we are still having the issue.

Does anyone have any clue where to look from here? Let me know if there is info I am missing.

Thanks,

ByDesign

 

[mattymac]

stator's will act up when warm 99% of the time if they have an issue. They will run perfect then once they get a good heat soak they will loose electrical power on the ignition side. (there are two diffrent windings in a stator lighting coil and ignition coil side) One runs the headlights and handwarmers the other side runs the ignition power.

If the sled runs good when it cools off my money is on the stator.

You can OHM them out, the problem is once they cool off they will test within specs.

RM stator can rewind them for 150-200 with a 1 year warranty im sending one out today to them off an older 700 rmk that runs 100% perfect off the trailer then a couple miles down the trail it starts popping and acts just like you hit the kill switch, once cooled off runs perfect agin!

 

[ByDesign]

stator's will act up when warm 99% of the time if they have an issue. They will run perfect then once they get a good heat soak they will loose electrical power on the ignition side. (there are two diffrent windings in a stator lighting coil and ignition coil side) One runs the headlights and handwarmers the other side runs the ignition power.

If the sled runs good when it cools off my money is on the stator.

You can OHM them out, the problem is once they cool off they will test within specs.

RM stator can rewind them for 150-200 with a 1 year warranty im sending one out today to them off an older 700 rmk that runs 100% perfect off the trailer then a couple miles down the trail it starts popping and acts just like you hit the kill switch, once cooled off runs perfect agin!

Does your sled have carbs? I have head this was more of an EFI sled problem, than the carb models....


Thats the exact thing mine does. Is there a link for RM stator?

I should also mention, once the sled is warm and idling, moving the choke lever has not effect on it running. i.e. moving from no choke to full choke will not kill the motor, just gives it a slightly different exhaust note.

Thank you,

Mike

 

[Sledbrain2]

Could be stator, or you could have got it too hot and it went into limp mode. If you have an air lock that can happen.

 

[ByDesign]

Could be stator, or you could have got it too hot and it went into limp mode. If you have an air lock that can happen.

I think its a combo of the two. Just doesnt make very much sense. Was able to start it up today and it would idle fine and rev fine. Couldnt get it warm all the way though. What is the best way to remove an airlock?


Thank you

 

[Sledbrain2]

I think its a combo of the two. Just doesnt make very much sense. Was able to start it up today and it would idle fine and rev fine. Couldnt get it warm all the way though. What is the best way to remove an airlock?


Thank you

Take cap off over flow and run it should burp if you have air in the system. Was the temp light on or did you not notice?

 

[Sledbrain2]

Another possibility is the TPS. That gave all kind of fits and symptoms similar to a stator(I replaced 3 cat stators). Will it run right, then almost shuting off throwing you over the bars. I also had to run current to injector to get it to fire. A AC tech can do a test to tell you if the tps is bad. With a carb model it may have a different symptom compared to an EFI..

 

[ByDesign]

Take cap off over flow and run it should burp if you have air in the system. Was the temp light on or did you not notice?

Temp light did come on. I knew it was getting hot, but I dont think it shut down due to that.
I have tried taking the cap off and running it, but I still think there is air in the system. My coolant reservoir has seen betters day and the cap isnt the best because the plastic is all mauled up at the top.

Thank you

 

[ByDesign]

Another possibility is the TPS. That gave all kind of fits and symptoms similar to a stator(I replaced 3 cat stators). Will it run right, then almost shuting off throwing you over the bars. I also had to run current to injector to get it to fire. A AC tech can do a test to tell you if the tps is bad. With a carb model it may have a different symptom compared to an EFI..

It's not a violent shut down, more feels like it goes from full power to one cylinder and then 5 more secs and the sled shuts down and coasts to a stop. I wasn't aware that a carb model would use a TPS.

Mike

 

[Slednadz]

Temp light did come on. I knew it was getting hot, but I dont think it shut down due to that.
I have tried taking the cap off and running it, but I still think there is air in the system. My coolant reservoir has seen betters day and the cap isnt the best because the plastic is all mauled up at the top.

Thank you

If your not getting a good seal you're going to overheat pressurizing the system raises the boiling point of water/antifreeze, your sled will run like crap if it's hot.

 

[ByDesign]

Ill buy a new coolant bottle tomorrow, and hope that helps out. I have also read that tilting the sled aprox 30 degrees nose up while filling, helps eliminate the cooling system air pockets. Will also be draining the fuel tank and pulling the filters and pick up hose to check for blockages.


Mike

 

[mattymac]

get the nose of the sled up in the air to the point where the tunnel isnt tapered up toward the rear so if there is a bubble in the rear cooler the bubble will travel up toward the front of the sled.

if you start the sled let it warm up a bit and can feel the coolers in the tunnel getting warm then it is circulating water in the system and the bubble will surface at the coolant bottle itself.

If you have an air lock in the rear heat exchanger it will NOT circulate coolant.

 

[ByDesign]

get the nose of the sled up in the air to the point where the tunnel isnt tapered up toward the rear so if there is a bubble in the rear cooler the bubble will travel up toward the front of the sled.

if you start the sled let it warm up a bit and can feel the coolers in the tunnel getting warm then it is circulating water in the system and the bubble will surface at the coolant bottle itself.

If you have an air lock in the rear heat exchanger it will NOT circulate coolant.

I think thats the problem...well one of them, im not circulating coolant. Ill try tilting the sled tomorrow, after I replace the coolant resi and refill. I also ordered some scratchers to help throw some snow up there.


Mike

 

[ByDesign]

Started pulling everything apart yesterday. Tank is clean, hoses are fine, filter is clean. One thing I noticed that that exhaust valve cables are extremely worn and frayed. Only one or two strands of cable are actually still connected. I seem to be reading that in the 02 its not very common for the stator to go out because the wire is much thicker?