I'm trying to determine where to start my adjustments to make my 2011 M8 SP easier to roll onto its side and looking for input. I have no problem sidehilling it once up on edge, it's just the intial roll that seems to take a lot of effort, whether the bars are up all the way, down all the way, or somewhere in the middle. I don't care how it rides on the trails, because trails to me are what you use to get to the fun stuff.
Adjusting suspension for easier roll onto side.
- Thread starter makaio
- Start date
M
mynewuseddoo
Well-known member
Counter steer, throttle control and a little jerk to your up hill side.
What skis are you running.
I got the counter steer, throttle, jerk thing down, it just seems like I have to throw my weight into it a little more I should. It's still worlds easier than on my old Rev.
Running the stock skiis for now. Trying to decide which to put on this Summer before next season. Looks like our season might be a lot shorter than last year here in Nor-Cal compared to last year, so I havent been in a hurry to change them out. I've only logged 12 days on this new machine so far.
Running the stock skiis for now. Trying to decide which to put on this Summer before next season. Looks like our season might be a lot shorter than last year here in Nor-Cal compared to last year, so I havent been in a hurry to change them out. I've only logged 12 days on this new machine so far.
You could try stiffening up your front susp, m8 with progressive front susp was the best handling m i have ever ridden
Might very well be a matter of technique though, put the bars down low watch some schooled! Made the world of differenve for me i thought my technique was correct before riding with brett and seeing it done right
soften front shocks, geo mod and drop the front of the skid down. Shock revalving always helps.
I dig the GEOMOD as well, but not completely sure it helps with making the sled easier to roll up on its side?
Soften the low speed valving on your ski shocks, but keep the rest of the internals stiff for the hard hits if you like to ride hard. Run dual a dual rate/double spring, or get progressive coils.
How big a guy are you Makiao? If your of average size, and having trouble with a standard width M, there might be something else wrong with the sled?
Soften the low speed valving on your ski shocks, but keep the rest of the internals stiff for the hard hits if you like to ride hard. Run dual a dual rate/double spring, or get progressive coils.
How big a guy are you Makiao? If your of average size, and having trouble with a standard width M, there might be something else wrong with the sled?
like wyo said. Soften the fronts, add prelaod to front skid shock, or drop front skid location to lower hole (look inside tunnel & you'll see what we mean) and soften the float a bit. This will create more transfer, which helps tighten carved turns & lets the sled fall over easier.
I agree with Wyoming and Backcountry. I sent my shocks to Andy Youngstrom at gasshrockrepair.com and it's the best bang for the buck for fixing the Fox Float issues. However, I have read many times that the 2011 valving is much better so maybe you don't need it?
After the revalve, I run 50 lbs in the right front shock and 52 on the clutch side because there is more weight. It rolls over nicely. My front track shock is from 95-100 PSI max.
After the revalve, I run 50 lbs in the right front shock and 52 on the clutch side because there is more weight. It rolls over nicely. My front track shock is from 95-100 PSI max.
I'm 200 lbs dressed to ride with all my gear.
Thanks for all the tips and advice. Like I said I have no trouble holding an edge once up on it's side, it just feels like it could be a little easier to intiate the roll. I'll start by adjusting the pressure of the front shocks and see how it goes.
hey btw... make sure your rear skid mount is in the upper hole... that DESTROYS the light feeling in an M. I wish that adjustment wasn't even there, it makes some folks think they're getting more suspension or something... it's only good for trail riding & serious hillclimbing.
Thats the one towards the rear right? If it is I'm pretty sure it is in the upper hole, I'll take a look when I get back today.
Added 10 PSI to the front Floats and it greatly helped transition/roll over onto edge.
Yeah, the rear mount points, behind the seat.
Adding psi to the front shocks should make pulling over harder, not easier btw...
B
bmhughes
New member
I have a 2010 m8 and so it does not have the floats on the front but I can tell you that the steering is very heavy feeling do to the spindles. My buddies 07 m8 feels awesome compared to mine. mine turns hard and is harder to roll over. Flipped his right on its side when I got on it.. the new spindles suck.. and they wear you out.. I am sure the 2011 are the same way. good luck I am changing to 07 spindles.
My bad, ment to say lowered by 10psi. Adding PSI didn't help.
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