H
High Velocity
Well-known member
LoudHandle, the clutch was manufactured on July 25, 2011.
Sent from my iPad when I should be sledding.
Sent from my iPad when I should be sledding.
Yet another broken primary !
- Thread starter High Velocity
- Start date
Balance and True those clutches gentlemen
This is probably a good place to stress the importance of getting a proper balance done after setting the sheave to belt clearance.
Also a good idea to get the movable sheave trued to the correct angle to work with the belt. For some reason Polaris opted to run one angle on the fixed sheave and another angle on the movable sheave. This goofy angle on the movable sheave is why you pull more cords out of the belt on that side. By doing this you will grip the belt better and get lower belt and clutch temps.
I'd recommend Indy Dan for both of these. Although there are many places that can likely give you similar results. I believe with Indy Dan you actually get what you pay for.
Thanks for the date "High Velocity" my newest clutch is from July 31 2009, hopefully dodge that bullet? Time will tell.
This is probably a good place to stress the importance of getting a proper balance done after setting the sheave to belt clearance.
Also a good idea to get the movable sheave trued to the correct angle to work with the belt. For some reason Polaris opted to run one angle on the fixed sheave and another angle on the movable sheave. This goofy angle on the movable sheave is why you pull more cords out of the belt on that side. By doing this you will grip the belt better and get lower belt and clutch temps.
I'd recommend Indy Dan for both of these. Although there are many places that can likely give you similar results. I believe with Indy Dan you actually get what you pay for.
Thanks for the date "High Velocity" my newest clutch is from July 31 2009, hopefully dodge that bullet? Time will tell.
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H
High Velocity
Well-known member
LH, I obviously haven't been paying close enough attention. I didn't realize that the sheaves were different angles. Once I get this mess sorted out, I'll definitely get the clutch balanced and the proper angles machined. Thanks !!
Sent from my iPad when I should be sledding.
Sent from my iPad when I should be sledding.
The clutch on my 2011 broke Friday with 2000 miles, rode it the remainder of the day thinking it was a bushing hanging up, got lucky and made it home fine.
Pulled the primary bolt out and it fell in two half's. Called the shop they said to install the clutch pulling tool with the broken half of shaft ( shaft removed from the spider ) and weld it. So I did took about 45 minutes to remove it. As for the heat on the crank bearing, it's a good 4 to 5 inches away from the crank seals, I could hold my hand on the crank no problem right after it was removed. The shop told me they would charge 1 hour labor to pull it so a little less damage to the wallet.
One last comment, before you weld the two half's together make sure you leave about a 1/16th gap or your welds will break from stress when you start pulling on it, you will also be able to see where you need to weld. it is very important to build a protective area around the area your welding, so good heavy damp cotton shirts can suffice to keep hot slag and prevent dingle berry's from damaging hose's, plastics or wires or getting ding berry's on your secondary.
Pulled the primary bolt out and it fell in two half's. Called the shop they said to install the clutch pulling tool with the broken half of shaft ( shaft removed from the spider ) and weld it. So I did took about 45 minutes to remove it. As for the heat on the crank bearing, it's a good 4 to 5 inches away from the crank seals, I could hold my hand on the crank no problem right after it was removed. The shop told me they would charge 1 hour labor to pull it so a little less damage to the wallet.
One last comment, before you weld the two half's together make sure you leave about a 1/16th gap or your welds will break from stress when you start pulling on it, you will also be able to see where you need to weld. it is very important to build a protective area around the area your welding, so good heavy damp cotton shirts can suffice to keep hot slag and prevent dingle berry's from damaging hose's, plastics or wires or getting ding berry's on your secondary.
O
Oregonsledder
Well-known member
When ever I am welding on a sled, I always unplug the ECU.
H
High Velocity
Well-known member
Did they drill and tap the inner sheave for a puller ?
Sent from my iPad when I should be sledding.
Luckily they pulled the primary instead.
Without removing plastics, I don't see how you'd get to the one behind the primary..
D
Danbot
Well-known member
Sorry to hear about your clutch Ken, some unreal snow to miss out on!
This happened on my 900 as I think you'll remember, I cut a vertical line from the edge of the sheave to the crank stopping just short of contacting the stub. Then I inserted a large flat screwdriver and gave it a small pry to spread my cut and it popped off with almost no effort.
This happened on my 900 as I think you'll remember, I cut a vertical line from the edge of the sheave to the crank stopping just short of contacting the stub. Then I inserted a large flat screwdriver and gave it a small pry to spread my cut and it popped off with almost no effort.
Made by Team Industries I believe.
Had this happen on both my -08 D7 and my -09 Assault.
Just about when Team started making theese clutches a number of things started to happen that had not before...
Same with the TRAs on the BRP sleds, Team makes them now and rollers etc needs replacing in less than half the time they used to last before....
True enough, better to have it break in the shop. It's possible to do without pulling the primary or the plastics though.
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