XP: Cutting the fat

[Wade]

In need some ideas for taking a few pounds off.

So far I've heard:

Strip foam.
Take baffle plate out (between muffler and engine.
Remove muffler heat shield and ceramic powder coat.
Remove brake light assembly.
Trim all unneeded plastic on tool holder. (makes belt cover easier to remove)

I assume:
Remove boggies and install scratchers.
Trim tail flap.
Remove Sway bar.
Has anyone trimmed the windshield?
Do you even need the right side cover?
Oil delete. (not for me thank you)

Expensive Stuff:
Fox Floats up front.
Timbersled suspension.
Racer's edge suspension parts.
Can

 

[highmark herring]

An after market can and a timbersled intake system will lose a lot of weight, gain a few ponies, and create much needed space. I mounted my tool kit where the obnoxious stock can was. I have my shovel, probe, spare belt, and muffpot all located where the stock intake system was plus no more bogging in deep pow. I would say these two things will net the most lost weight to dollar ratio plus the other benefits. It really turned out sweet.

 

[louie]

I do not reccomend removing the bogies from the suspension, i removed all of mine, just as i did on my 05, and installed scratchers, at about 400 miles i had to in stall new hyfax because they were worn out. My buddies xp, we only removed the front bogies to install his scratchers and his had wear on the front section of the hyfax, it wasn't like we were road raging at all, we startined taking off from a new spot this year which put us powder immediately. So we both installed new hyfax ans put the bogies back on with the scratchers, which we have not needed yet, and neither of us have the wear issues since, and we we have put on 1,000 miles since that then. I am thinking the material used is softer and no one at the time made aftermarket hyfax yet for the xp.

 

[rev800151]

I don't know why ski-doo doesnt put fox floats on stock. All the rest do. Yamaha-fox, artic-cat-fox, polaris-walker evans. Ski-doo needs to step up.

 

[BC-XP]

In need some ideas for taking a few pounds off.

Strip foam.
Take baffle plate out (between muffler and engine.
Remove muffler heat shield and ceramic powder coat.
Remove brake light assembly.
Trim all unneeded plastic on tool holder.
Trim tail flap.
Remove Sway bar.
Has anyone trimmed the windshield?
Do you even need the right side cover?


So exaclty how much weight do you think doing the above is actually going to save?

Wouldn't it be a lot easier to just take a big crap before you go riding, probably similar weight savings and its free.

 

[NoSecondChances]

In need some ideas for taking a few pounds off.

So far I've heard:

Strip foam.
Take baffle plate out (between muffler and engine.
Remove muffler heat shield and ceramic powder coat.
Remove brake light assembly.
Trim all unneeded plastic on tool holder. (makes belt cover easier to remove)

I assume:
Remove boggies and install scratchers.
Trim tail flap.
Remove Sway bar.
Has anyone trimmed the windshield?
Do you even need the right side cover?
Oil delete. (not for me thank you)

Expensive Stuff:
Fox Floats up front.
Timbersled suspension.
Racer's edge suspension parts.
Can

If you're going to the trouble of things like trimming the windshield to save 1/4 ounce or trimming the tail flap, spend some time and look at the things that will really save you weight, like the seat or any steel parts on the sled that can be replaced with alum., and any unsprung weight. Seriously I can't believe that guys spend time trimming the tail flaps to save very little weight. If you're going to do that kind of stuff, I would spend the time under the hood getting rid of any foam that could soak up water, etc. Gun drill the jackshaft, get lighter skis, get a lighter seat, remove the headlight/tailight, get a small coolant bottle and remove the huge coolant reservoir, port the track, etc. is the kind of stuff that I would be doing in place of shaving the windshield.

 

[KevinW]

I would cut the soda and eat salads. This has proved effective and adds much needed performance.

 

[Wade]

XP's come with a ported track. Track porting is only worth about 2 pounds, but it is rotating mass.

The windshield trim isn't actually for weight, it's because the windshield looks funny with all the weird angles. You'd have to see it to understand. The X model comes with a much cut down shield, looks better. Its more aesthetics.

Funny Windshield: The one I own.

Nice Looking Windshield:

Foam soaks up water, good to get rid of it.

The drive shaft is hydraformed. The jack shaft is permanently affixed to the secondary, don't think you could drill it.

The tail flap trim, actually is so that powder can be excavated better. It saves a little weight. The tail works well on trails, but in deep powder, I think it's too long. Saves a little weight, and it's free.

You should see the size of the crap I take before riding, I'm talking about weight in excess of my crap. To answer your question, I think close to 10 pounds. I know the muffler shield is 4 by itself.

A lot of the baffle and tool holder, and such was for air flow. The beast gets hot. I need to add vents.

Stock seat only weights 7 pounds to begin with. Not much to cut.

I agree that Doo should have put the fox floats on, stock. I guess there's liability with floats, since you have to maintain them, or they have a tendency to bend stuff. Oh well.

Yes, a little weight loss would help. Don't like salad, but a good mountain bike ride will counter act pretty much anything you can eat.

Sorry, I think you should hit the free stuff first. Sort the list by pounds per dollars. If it cost nothing, then it's basically a infinite ratio, so it's first.

Man, I asked a simple question. Guess I need to be very specific when communicating.

 

[NoSecondChances]

Man, I asked a simple question. Guess I need to be very specific when communicating.

Sorry dude, not sure if you took offence to something I said or someone else's comment, either way, wasn't trying to be a d!ck, just trying to help. Sorry, forgot that they came ported from Camoplast, no you can't drill the driveshaft (knew that one), I thought you could separate the jackshaft, someone was making a conversion kit to run aftermarket secondaries, which means you could drill it. Like I said, anything steel that can be replaced should, but that's the problem with the new sleds, not much area to shave weight without starting to spend bigger money. Yes do the free stuff first, but it sounds like you're already doing most of it, apart from going to lighter gears made out of titanium and things like that which are high $$$ costs, there isn't a whole lot of weight to shave from the XP (hard to make it lighter when its already made of plastic and alum mainly). Suitcase would be the biggest weight loss, again, you're already there.

 

[johnny be bad]

In need some ideas for taking a few pounds off.

So far I've heard:

Strip foam.
Take baffle plate out (between muffler and engine.
Remove muffler heat shield and ceramic powder coat.
Remove brake light assembly.
Trim all unneeded plastic on tool holder. (makes belt cover easier to remove)

I assume:
Remove boggies and install scratchers.
Trim tail flap.
Remove Sway bar.
Has anyone trimmed the windshield?
Do you even need the right side cover?
Oil delete. (not for me thank you)

Expensive Stuff:
Fox Floats up front.
Timbersled suspension.
Racer's edge suspension parts.
Can

i cut my windshield down! saves1.5 lbs!!! with the side pieces removed.

 

[winter brew]

Wade sounds like you have a good idea of what can be done, I would add a HPS silencer to the list.
The thing about the XP is the factory already did most of the stuff we have been doing for years, plus alot more. Truly a buy it and ride it sled, besides the first year problems that some people had and nailing down the clutching.

 

[Wade]

NoSecondChances, Not mad at anyone, just wanted to get the subject back on track. Your comments were headed in the proper direction, I understood what your saying. Appreciated. My answers were a mixture of smartazz return fire and honest answers. I should have segregated my answers.

WinterBrew, that's what I'm kinda finding. The only things I see you could honestly cut, are safety or noise control items. I plan on keeping my stock muffler, and ceramic powder coating it. I need a little higher moral ground to stand on when I'm in a land closure meeting. Thanks.

The other thing I see off the bat is air intake, powder is going to block the intake. I was thinking a air intake duct in front of the steering column.

 

[cog]

I put a camoplast Exterme 2.5" track on mine after drilling holes and removing every other clip the track weighed the same as stock, than I put a Timbersled rear suspension on it and cut 16 lbs. I added fox floats on the front and cut another 2 lbs after market silencer cuts more, not cheap to do all this, I also run a Sled Head Racing 860 kit.

 

[Rob1334]

already light, why cut foam?

 

[Wade]

Talked to several people about the foam. Most people believe the foam will soak up water and hold it. I'm planning on installing some vents, so the foam is going to get removed one way or the other.

 

[PJ-Hunter]

already light, why cut foam?

The foam soaks up water and can easily start to add weight once it becomes fully saturated, It won't even dry out out before the next ride if you store the sled inside. I take my foam out after it is wet and it weighs more than one would think!

 

[Jamesontf]

I see a ton of guys talking about cutting weight off their sleds. There is one thing that never gets talked about. How about shedding weight off of the riders....
It is the cheapest way to gain ride ability, with out losing reliability.

Go on a diet I bet you could lose 15lbs there isn't one of us that is under weight.

 

[steveo10]

He was spamming the forums when he asked why cut the foam.

 

[POW]

so removing the foam on the clutch side is a no brainer for me, ya i know why waste my time removing such little weight, well it cost me NOTHING and the whole five minutes it took to remove didn't kill me either.

I'm just curious to see if you guys have been removing the can side foam since it has the heat shield stuff glued right on, and since the can is so close to the panel i would be curious to know if you guys have had any panels startin to melt or something with the foam removed

spanks.

 

[highmark herring]

The first thing you need to do is get rid of your stock can. I put on a hps which saved close to 10 lbs. They are tiny compared to the monolithic stock can. Because of the size difference the panel doesn't come into play. I removed the foam and have had zero problems. While you are in there, lose the foam baffle between the motor and can. This also allows more air flow to help keep the motor cool.