xp clutching

[McFarckle]

If anyone could help me out i would greatly appreciate it!
My dads xp was the "test dummy" for clutching for big west in boise. well they went out of bisseness and we are stuck now and dont want to play around with it anymore so i am wondering what your clutching is on your 800 xp's?
6000-9000 feet
thank you all
it is a 154

 

[torq]

on my 08 i just put on one of DJ's kits havnt had it in the deep stuff yet but i set it up as the instructions said and hit 8300 on the tach. at 8000' the first try and clutches were much cooler than before. just waiting to see what he's doing for the 09's.

 

[wildman dan]

clutch set up

send it to tuppers in fairfield he has a pretty good set up.

 

[badass1000]

does it not work right? What did they put in it?
I put a DJ kit in mine last year and it works pretty good. No complaints.
I went in to big west last year and told them I had a dj clutch kit. They kept talking their kit up and how great it was. I asked several times what all was in it and they wouldn't say. Basically told them I wasn't going to spend $400+ for a clutch kit if I didn't know what all was included. So they brought a bag out and it was some one elses kit. It was a heel clicker or some thing. I can't remember any more. They were just selling some one elses kit as their own. It had the billet arms where you put the weight in different spots on the arm and a primary spring.
The dj kit comes with his custom multi angle helix, primary spring, and a weight pin kit.
all I got to say is be careful if you replace the threaded weight pins in the end of the arm. My dj kit came with a dalton weight kit. The cotter pins were made of prett thin material. I figured they knew what they are doing and they must work. Two of the cotter pins came out and it destroyed my clutch. The end of the cotter pin you bend over broke off, the cotter pin came out, the weight pin came out of the end of the arm, and broke the arms and alot of other stuff. Basically destroyed my primary. The oem ski doo cotter pins are of alot thicker material. I only use the oem ski doo cotter pins now and no more problems.

 

[McFarckle]

well they changed the gearing as well. so in a drag race it tops out at 55 at8200 rpm....

Where do i buy one of these dj clutch kits?

 

[sledhead-also]

www.mxzx-revzone.com/ worth every penny he charges. Best mod for any sled, IMHO.

s-a

 

[Throttle Junkie]

well they changed the gearing as well. so in a drag race it tops out at 55 at8200 rpm....

Where do i buy one of these dj clutch kits?

That's not a gearing issue, that the stop primary setup that stops shifting...unless you are geared at something like 17/49 55mph top speed would be some loooooooowwwww gearing.

 

[badass1000]

the 154 needs to be regeard to 19/45. Stock is 21/45.
mine is geard to 19/45 and will still do 75 or so I believe. Not real sure as top speed is not too important to me.

 

[mrquick68]

why don't people talk much about making changes themselves with XPs? Everyone just says "buy so-and-so's kit." well excuse me, but i ain't spending $300+ on a kit either unless i know damn well what's in it. Don't get me wrong, i think the guys out there putting kits together are sharp guys and some are even my friends - but i want to know what i'm spending money on.

There's a lot more discussion on the other forums about what changes people are making with their clutching with off the shelf parts. But in the doo forum everyone buys kits.

What gives? I know Doo owners are as smart as the other sled brand guys - so why not discuss what works!?

The only person i've seen post up ideas for changes is Turbo Al.

 

[Teth-Air]

why don't people talk much about making changes themselves with XPs? Everyone just says "buy so-and-so's kit." well excuse me, but i ain't spending $300+ on a kit either unless i know damn well what's in it. Don't get me wrong, i think the guys out there putting kits together are sharp guys and some are even my friends - but i want to know what i'm spending money on.

There's a lot more discussion on the other forums about what changes people are making with their clutching with off the shelf parts. But in the doo forum everyone buys kits.

What gives? I know Doo owners are as smart as the other sled brand guys - so why not discuss what works!?

The only person i've seen post up ideas for changes is Turbo Al.

Mines an 08, 154 X with 20 tooth top gear.

What do you want, I will tell you what I have in my clutch but who says you will want it for your style of riding.

I have 414 ramp for start, this only changes the low to mid rpm v.s. track speed. It might slow me a bit off the line but helps take that buzzy low speed feel out of the xp.

Secondly I have been using a blue/purple primary spring. This was a great improvement over the stock purple/purple as again the softer start lowered the engagement and lowered the rpm on the trail.

Now I just installed a blue/blue spring to enable me to run in clicker 3 rather than 2.

For pin weight, I have the stock 12mm set screw, + 10mm + 8mm

This may be adjusted by 2mm depending on results of changing spring.

I also have a 13:1 compression head so it might pull a bit more weight than a stock engine.

377 belt is a must.

Secondary, I tried (and have 2 for sale) EPI yellow spring but went back to stock as the yellow spring just made the engine rev higher. So factory settings for secondary has been best for me.

My sled pulls hardest and has highest track speed if I clutch it to pull 8000 rpm max. I gained 5 km/hr by running at 8000 rather than clutching to run at 8200. This is important and you should take note of the best rpm for your machine.

Start with a clutch puller, a metric setscrew kit from the hardware store (6mm diameter size) and a 377 belt. Be sure the clutches are aligned or even with all above the belts will not last if you don't have them aligned.

The other changes I made are not as necessary but are more to adjust the feel of the sled to my liking.

 

[mrquick68]

great info Teth-Air.

My whole point was i'd like to see more info from people trying stuff and talking about how it works. just like you just did. nice. It's lets people see what changing things does and how other's sled respond to those changes.

I am surprised you didn't like the stiffer secondary spring though.

Thanks for the good info.

 

[fassteddie]

good post teth.

 

[newtrout]

Mines an 08, 154 X with 20 tooth top gear.

What do you want, I will tell you what I have in my clutch but who says you will want it for your style of riding.

I have 414 ramp for start, this only changes the low to mid rpm v.s. track speed. It might slow me a bit off the line but helps take that buzzy low speed feel out of the xp.

Secondly I have been using a blue/purple primary spring. This was a great improvement over the stock purple/purple as again the softer start lowered the engagement and lowered the rpm on the trail.

Now I just installed a blue/blue spring to enable me to run in clicker 3 rather than 2.

For pin weight, I have the stock 12mm set screw, + 10mm + 8mm

This may be adjusted by 2mm depending on results of changing spring.

I also have a 13:1 compression head so it might pull a bit more weight than a stock engine.

377 belt is a must.

Secondary, I tried (and have 2 for sale) EPI yellow spring but went back to stock as the yellow spring just made the engine rev higher. So factory settings for secondary has been best for me.

My sled pulls hardest and has highest track speed if I clutch it to pull 8000 rpm max. I gained 5 km/hr by running at 8000 rather than clutching to run at 8200. This is important and you should take note of the best rpm for your machine.

Start with a clutch puller, a metric setscrew kit from the hardware store (6mm diameter size) and a 377 belt. Be sure the clutches are aligned or even with all above the belts will not last if you don't have them aligned.

The other changes I made are not as necessary but are more to adjust the feel of the sled to my liking.

Something to consider: is it possible that the higher track speed at 8000 vs 8200 was due to the fact that you were at a lower clicker number, rather than the actual rpm difference. Have you tried comparing different pin weight so you are running 8000 at clicker 3 vs 8200 at clicker 3; 8000 at clicker 2 vs 8200 at clicker 2.

In similar experiments, I've found that it has more to do with clicker number and resulting clutch efficiency than just rpm. ie. I can pull higher climbing track speed in clicker 2 at 7700 than I can in clicker 5 at 8200.

Not disagreeing with your findings, just another variable for people to consider.

 

[shortstop20]

Good point, the proper clicker number will make the clutching more efficient and transfer more power to the belt. RPM's are only part of the equation.

 

[McFarckle]

THanks for all the great info guys! i think i will be able to get in the ball park no and can do some fine tuning THanks to all!

 

[Teth-Air]

Something to consider: is it possible that the higher track speed at 8000 vs 8200 was due to the fact that you were at a lower clicker number, rather than the actual rpm difference. Have you tried comparing different pin weight so you are running 8000 at clicker 3 vs 8200 at clicker 3; 8000 at clicker 2 vs 8200 at clicker 2.

In similar experiments, I've found that it has more to do with clicker number and resulting clutch efficiency than just rpm. ie. I can pull higher climbing track speed in clicker 2 at 7700 than I can in clicker 5 at 8200.

Not disagreeing with your findings, just another variable for people to consider.

It's possible, and I would like to change weights on the test hill and stay in the same clicker but I have a hard time carrying all the tools. If this blue/blue spring doesn't give me track speed in clicker 3, I will go back to the blue/purple with less pin weight. Thanks for the insight.