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xm clutching

Some guys like it, some hate it. At lower altitudes the issue is not being able to run enough pin weight to get off clicker #1....and if you go to longer pins/more weight then it gets lazy feeling with the stock secondary setup...I would say the only thing that HAS to be done is proper pin weight to be on clicker 3-4, other than that it's personal preference and clutching/gearing for riding style.
 
Or......just buy Winterbrew's clutching setup. I am running his stuff on my 2012 154 and my wife's 2012 146. Both sleds are able to stay on clicker 3, pull 7900-8000 every hill and snow condition so far this season in central WA. Absolutely love the setup, fast backshift, great track speed. Plus, he has always responded to my questions very quickly.
 
Rooster built for the win!

I believe the kit includes

primary spring
secondary spring
helix
Dalton midweight pin kit


they may recommend a new top gear deepening on what you have


somewhere around 300$
 
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I ride with RB equipped Doos and Pros. I am a believer.
 
I just rotate the (3) bolts to setting 3 or 4 depending on elevation and everything's worked fine so far. But, I've only ridden the machine a few times and have a lot of 'getting up to snuff' to do :)
 
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I will wait until the break-in is done for sure before changing much on the clutches. Went up to clicker 2, 3-6k' elevation. Right now its pulling the r's. Back shifting sometimes a little slow. Only 175 miles on.
 
I don't see how it's any different than say dealers switching out to low elevation setups before delivery. That is technically not the stock setup. I just ordered a rb setup. Only have one ride on sled so far. I'm not worried.
 
Brew, can you provide instructions and a list of tools required to install one of your clutch kits?

For instruction i refer peope to the shop manual, a buddy who has been around the TRA, dealer install or we are happy to help talk a guy through the install if they are mechanically inclined and have basic clutch knowledge. Its nothing too difficult but there are aome small details that are critical. There are also some youtube vids out there that give you an idea of what you are getting into.
Tools nice to have are a primary puller, button clips and a QRS compresser. It can be done with no special tools but the QRS compressor will make it much easier and less risk of bushing damage. Clutch can be pulled with the water/teflon tape method if no puller available. If you live close we will do the helix swap for free or possibly loan out a compressor to a customer that goes with our clutching and doesnt want to pay for a complete install.
Even if a guy keeps stock clutching, the right tools will pay for themselves by not relying on the dealer at $100/hr to do an annual inspection, cleaning and staying on top of any wear issues.
I want to put together a set of detailed instructions and torques but have not found the time to do this yet.

As for break in first, not a big deal either way...but I do like guys to experience the stock setup so they can be confident they are getting gains for the $$ spent.
 
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