X3 Removal

[goridedoo]

Anyone have any advice on pulling an X3 out... I have the center punched/driven version and the drivers are so tight to the track that I can't get the drive shaft to move enough to get it pulled out. Any simple way to do this?

Thanks

 

[Davajn]

Yeah that's definitely a nightmare. I gave up on removing it so now I'm gonna try trim the edges down abit to see if it gets more "flickable". Wanted to try the 2.5" version but I might just trash this one first

 

[goridedoo]

Well that's reassuring.

 

[Robbie]

Get some zip ties and bend a couple of rows of paddles. Rotate the track so these paddles are at the closest part of the bulk head. That should make it a little easier. At least you won't be fighting all the paddles.

 

[goridedoo]

Well the zip tie trick didn't work, zip ties all broke when the track had to wrap around the shaft, maybe would have worked with heavier duty ties. I ended up tipping the sled on its side and doing a whole lot of prying and manipulating and got it to come out.

 

[LoudHandle]

I have not done this on a PRO yet, but on some of the older sleds, I've run some cardboard between the driver and the track. That way at least you are not fighting the drive lug to track interface. With the belt drive it should be far less of an issue, as you have no seal to worry about. The other thing that gains you some room is to pull the lower snap ring and remove the bearing on the QD side. That will gain you almost an extra inch of room. You can also pull the whole case / bearing plate and re-glue it after reassembly.

Glad to hear you got it, wish I had seen the post earlier. Could have saved you uttering a string expletives.

 

[tinkerjohnson]

Track removal

Guys last year were saying to take the snap ring out and drive your belt drive side bearing out then your drive shaft will move farther away and gain the clearance you need

 

[jerrydecoy]

What year pro? I know it sounds like a lot more work but on my 11' it's a lot easier to remove the chain case. Gives a pile more room for maneuvering the drivers. I just put my x3 back in and I got the drive shaft in and then GENTLY slide the case on


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[goridedoo]

Its a 13. And I did pull the snap ring, but then had no idea how to get that bearing to come out when the shaft is there?

 

[tinkerjohnson]

Its a 13. And I did pull the snap ring, but then had no idea how to get that bearing to come out when the shaft is there?

I have not done it myself but in my mind you should be able to knock it part way out by using the shaft carefully smack the shaft from the opposite side, then pull the shaft back towards the clutch side and maybe get a punch and drive it the rest of the way out from underneath you may damage the bearing but I would replace it anyways. I would use a block of wood or something soft to put between the shaft and your hammer so you don't damage the shaft

 

[geo]

I have not done this on a PRO yet, but on some of the older sleds, I've run some cardboard between the driver and the track. That way at least you are not fighting the drive lug to track interface. With the belt drive it should be far less of an issue, as you have no seal to worry about. The other thing that gains you some room is to pull the lower snap ring and remove the bearing on the QD side. That will gain you almost an extra inch of room. You can also pull the whole case / bearing plate and re-glue it after reassembly.

Glad to hear you got it, wish I had seen the post earlier. Could have saved you uttering a string expletives.

Good method for oversize involute drivers. Makes it too easy for normal clearances. I use a piece about 14" wide and long enough for the OD of the drivers or more of "super slider" (kids rollup toboggan thingy). Roll it on and zap strap it for installation and roll it in and zap strap it for removal. Works well with the Poo center driver too.

Also use the track rigidity to pressure up into the tunnel front. Raise the sled high with a track stand. Drag the track under (for installation, for removal remove suspension then start)), grab the track with 2 tie-downs on the top about the correct point to make a 2' loop and pull the track towards the spindles, attach tie -downs to spindles and tighten the fold until the track end of the tie-downs is past the driveshaft holes in the tunnel.
Drop sled down (track actually supports the sled usually, sometimes it helps to put in more fuel, 4 strokes may force you to still use the track stand to support lol).

Do the two things and it's one man operation that goes like buddar.

 

[mtncat1]

I've installed them before I had to pull the chaincase , which is no big deal , just order some glue to put it back together with. there just isn't much room with that track . good luck.