Anyone have a pic of a header wrapped with a resonator , I'm not sure how I'm going to go over it??? also anyone with a Ti exhaust have any premature wear or thining metal after a season of having there ti head pipe wrapped? I live where it usually very cold and Wana keep the heat In and save my pants , also trips for mountains ect
Wrapping header with resonator
- Thread starter kevin_417
- Start date
Better of getting some P3 guards or something like that. Wrapping can absorb moisture and give you the opposite effect you are looking for.
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Isn't it worse to have the hot pipe hit a pile of powder the. To have it wrapped. ?
Wrapping headers works great and helps keep your pants from burning as easily. Most wraps will have a spray adhesive to keep the wrapping from fraying and it also helps hold it together. On a four stroke there is no worry about moisture. If any gets into the wrap it will get cooked out a few seconds after you start the bike. DEI makes some really good stuff.
pipe wrapping
wrapping will cut down on chances of burning your pants for sure, what we have noticed one big advantage, rather than have cold dry snow hitting the pipe and turning into water freezing on the side of the bike, so a wrapped 4 stroke on the right side will usualy carry way way less blue ice and snow, no wrapping in many conditions makes a watery mess on the right foot peg area.
On our older carb bikes the wrapped pipe minimized slush forming on the right side of the carb and making freeze up a problem. After pipe wrap and shield for the carb, we operated several KTM 450 carb bikes for3 years with out carb freezing in condtions where other bikes in the group were almost grounded and had to operate only in a poached track to get home.
wrapping will cut down on chances of burning your pants for sure, what we have noticed one big advantage, rather than have cold dry snow hitting the pipe and turning into water freezing on the side of the bike, so a wrapped 4 stroke on the right side will usualy carry way way less blue ice and snow, no wrapping in many conditions makes a watery mess on the right foot peg area.
On our older carb bikes the wrapped pipe minimized slush forming on the right side of the carb and making freeze up a problem. After pipe wrap and shield for the carb, we operated several KTM 450 carb bikes for3 years with out carb freezing in condtions where other bikes in the group were almost grounded and had to operate only in a poached track to get home.
A
AKdragon700
Well-known member
Exhaust Wrap FMF TI Pipe with DEI wrap
To do a proper exhaust wrap, this is what you will need:
https://www.designengineering.com//category/catalog/dei-cycle/motorcycle-exhaust-pipe-wrap-kits/titanium-exhaust-wrap-lr-technology
- DEI Titanium Exhaust Wrap (2" wrap, I believe I got at least 25 + ft)
--- 4" might be very helpful in the resonator wrap section, it was definitely the trickiest section of the whole wrap to get covered.
http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/design-engineering-inc/exhaust-wraps-accessories/ht-silicone-coating
- DEI High Temp Silicone Coating X 2 Cans (Color of Choice)
(FYI, you cannot order online, you will have to order from a local auto store)
- Pack of Stainless Steel Metal Zip Ties
- Large and Small Pliers
- Flat Head Screw Driver
- Small metal hammer
- 2 sets of hands to tighten metal zip ties
Step One
Take your time, be patient.
Step Two
Clean Exhaust with a alcohol based product, wash hands, trim the edges of the exhaust wrap flat, fold the exhaust wrap in half for the first wrap to create a clean edge that cannot unravel.
Once you like how it looks and leave ample room for the header connection, metal zip tie it as tight as physically possible.
Step Three
Master the metal zip tie tightening. Having another set of hands for this is crucial. Have said friend hold the pipe, then with a pair of pliers holding the back of the zip tie and a flathead screw driver pushing on the main section of the zip tie where the teeth are, push the zip tie in and pull the excess out. Once you have it slightly tight, use a small set of needle nose pliers to curl the metal zip tie right up against the main section of the zip tie. Leave enough excess on the zip tie to cut, curl over, and flatten for a clean non threatening finish.
Step Four
Wet the wrap in water and wring it out so its just damp. Now find a comfortable stool with a towel on a table. Start spinning the header and practicing your wrap. Overlap by about a half inch or so each pass and make sure to pullllll it tight. Once you reach the resonator you will have to do a multitude of passes to get the desired coverage. Weave from front to back with the most minimal amount of passes possible until the resonator is covered.
Step Five
If you have a exhaust bung on the exhaust, cover the hole up with a really tight wrap right across the middle. Then make two more passes on either side of the exhaust bung to make a clean finish. Put a metal zip tie on either side of the bung, and *very important* one zip tie right around the top edge of the exhaust bung you will cut this off later once its siliconed)
Step Six
Finish the wrap to the end. You'll have to do some extra wrapping around the rear bolt mount. Tuck the edges on the last fold and do a double zip tie for security reasons.
Step Six
Tape all the exposed metal of the pipe with painters tape and hang up with a hanger in your garage. Soak the S out of the Pipe with the HT Silicone Spray until it absorbs all the way through the wrap. Let it dry overnight then start putting light layers on to build up the outside protective coat.
Step 7
Cut the piece of wrap that went over the exhaust bung port with a exacto-knife right along the edge of the metal zip tie. Pull off all the tape and your all set to ride the deep powder without burns on your pants and melting mist coating your air filter.
I have ridden side by side on multiple occasions with bikes that did not have a wrap. The evidence for ice build up and air filter build up is very very clear. My buddy on a KTM 450 actually had to pull his air intake plenum off so that he could break the ice out of the middle.
Photos coming soon
To do a proper exhaust wrap, this is what you will need:
https://www.designengineering.com//category/catalog/dei-cycle/motorcycle-exhaust-pipe-wrap-kits/titanium-exhaust-wrap-lr-technology
- DEI Titanium Exhaust Wrap (2" wrap, I believe I got at least 25 + ft)
--- 4" might be very helpful in the resonator wrap section, it was definitely the trickiest section of the whole wrap to get covered.
http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/design-engineering-inc/exhaust-wraps-accessories/ht-silicone-coating
- DEI High Temp Silicone Coating X 2 Cans (Color of Choice)
(FYI, you cannot order online, you will have to order from a local auto store)
- Pack of Stainless Steel Metal Zip Ties
- Large and Small Pliers
- Flat Head Screw Driver
- Small metal hammer
- 2 sets of hands to tighten metal zip ties
Step One
Take your time, be patient.
Step Two
Clean Exhaust with a alcohol based product, wash hands, trim the edges of the exhaust wrap flat, fold the exhaust wrap in half for the first wrap to create a clean edge that cannot unravel.
Once you like how it looks and leave ample room for the header connection, metal zip tie it as tight as physically possible.
Step Three
Master the metal zip tie tightening. Having another set of hands for this is crucial. Have said friend hold the pipe, then with a pair of pliers holding the back of the zip tie and a flathead screw driver pushing on the main section of the zip tie where the teeth are, push the zip tie in and pull the excess out. Once you have it slightly tight, use a small set of needle nose pliers to curl the metal zip tie right up against the main section of the zip tie. Leave enough excess on the zip tie to cut, curl over, and flatten for a clean non threatening finish.
Step Four
Wet the wrap in water and wring it out so its just damp. Now find a comfortable stool with a towel on a table. Start spinning the header and practicing your wrap. Overlap by about a half inch or so each pass and make sure to pullllll it tight. Once you reach the resonator you will have to do a multitude of passes to get the desired coverage. Weave from front to back with the most minimal amount of passes possible until the resonator is covered.
Step Five
If you have a exhaust bung on the exhaust, cover the hole up with a really tight wrap right across the middle. Then make two more passes on either side of the exhaust bung to make a clean finish. Put a metal zip tie on either side of the bung, and *very important* one zip tie right around the top edge of the exhaust bung you will cut this off later once its siliconed)
Step Six
Finish the wrap to the end. You'll have to do some extra wrapping around the rear bolt mount. Tuck the edges on the last fold and do a double zip tie for security reasons.
Step Six
Tape all the exposed metal of the pipe with painters tape and hang up with a hanger in your garage. Soak the S out of the Pipe with the HT Silicone Spray until it absorbs all the way through the wrap. Let it dry overnight then start putting light layers on to build up the outside protective coat.
Step 7
Cut the piece of wrap that went over the exhaust bung port with a exacto-knife right along the edge of the metal zip tie. Pull off all the tape and your all set to ride the deep powder without burns on your pants and melting mist coating your air filter.
I have ridden side by side on multiple occasions with bikes that did not have a wrap. The evidence for ice build up and air filter build up is very very clear. My buddy on a KTM 450 actually had to pull his air intake plenum off so that he could break the ice out of the middle.
Photos coming soon
A
AKdragon700
Well-known member
Pictures
Wrap Job KTM 500 XC-W with FMF TI Exhaust + Exhaust Sensor Bung
Wrap Job KTM 500 XC-W with FMF TI Exhaust + Exhaust Sensor Bung
Wrapping your pipe does help you not burn your pants and keep your pipe at a more consistent temp in the snow. The bad part is it doesn't last blasting through timber, brush, and who knows what else. I think my wrap lasted about 2 rides...
I'm a little more optimistic running it on my new YZ where the pipe is a little more protected - since it doesn't poke out so much.
In reality, I'll be running and engine cover most the time anyways so the pipe shouldn't be exposed to all the brush, so maybe it'll last afterall....
I'm a little more optimistic running it on my new YZ where the pipe is a little more protected - since it doesn't poke out so much.
In reality, I'll be running and engine cover most the time anyways so the pipe shouldn't be exposed to all the brush, so maybe it'll last afterall....
A
AKdragon700
Well-known member
Skid Plate + P3 pipe guard
Mine barely has the silicone spray rubbed off the front of the pipe. My skid plate is pretty aggressive. That combined with the P3 guard is what seems to keep it protected
Mine barely has the silicone spray rubbed off the front of the pipe. My skid plate is pretty aggressive. That combined with the P3 guard is what seems to keep it protected
Akdragon you are the man , that is perfect 100 % what I needed to read , I'm on the process of building my first timber sled on my KTM and want it to be perfect.
A
AKdragon700
Well-known member
Gauge Cluster
No problem Kevin, I was very very meticulous with my bike build as well.
Not sure what model you have but check out this location I carved out for the temp gauge on my KTM handlebar pad and the footpeg extensions I got from Zipty Racing. Also did some cool stuff with velcro and frogzskin on my radiator guards to keep ice build up off.
No problem Kevin, I was very very meticulous with my bike build as well.
Not sure what model you have but check out this location I carved out for the temp gauge on my KTM handlebar pad and the footpeg extensions I got from Zipty Racing. Also did some cool stuff with velcro and frogzskin on my radiator guards to keep ice build up off.
