Why lower handlebars???

[Dogmeat]

I'm 6'3" with a 34" inseam, and the stock mid-height bars put them just below my waistline with my knees slightly bent. I've had no complaints at all about the bar height on the Axys RMK. Works well for general purpose all-day riding mixed back country / tree /t trail riding.

I tried a 2" riser and wound up taking it back off .... If you're on the fence, order the low bars, then adjust with whatever height riser you want to try.

 

[Colbymh]

Stock in season models come with 7's. 6" are meds and 5" are low.

Polaris offers all 3 as kits.

https://snowmobiles.polaris.com/en-us/shop/accessories/handlebars-accessories/2881235/

https://snowmobiles.polaris.com/en-us/shop/accessories/handlebars-accessories/2881236/

Thanks man.. even an inch narrower than stock. I called dealer back to let them know they lacked some knowledge.

 

[snowracer21]

I only read the original post, so I'm sure someone else has mentioned it in this thread already...

The #1 reason and advantage of lower bars: it forces the rider to have a more aggressive/forward stance.

The taller the bars, the further back on the sled it pushes the rider, which is no bueno. Think about pro motocross (and snocross) riders, their head, shoulders, and sometimes chest are in front of the bars at almost all times. This is the proper riding style.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

I only read the original post, so I'm sure someone else has mentioned it in this thread already...

The #1 reason and advantage of lower bars: it forces the rider to have a more aggressive/forward stance.

The taller the bars, the further back on the sled it pushes the rider, which is no bueno. Think about pro motocross (and snocross) riders, their head, shoulders, and sometimes chest are in front of the bars at almost all times. This is the proper riding style.

^^^^
Like he said.

I don’t know anything about “proper” but low bars are much more effective in steep terrain.

 

[Perk]

What I have come to realize (recently) is that for guys that ride straddled all the time, the bars can be up. I run the high bars + 1" riser (I am 6'0"). It is very comfortable to me and works perfect if you are always straddling. After riding with a guy in our group that does a lot of low speed, wrong foot forward creeping in the technical stuff, I realized that my higher bars do not work at all in that situation. The problem I am having is that I don't want to re-learn to ride! I can maneuver through about anything straddled, but you have to carry some speed doing that. Watching my riding buddy walk his through the really tight spots, I know that this is something I have got to learn. There are situations where you just cant straddle and throttle through.

Sat in the garage for over 2 hours Sunday staring at that 1" riser thinking, its gotta come off.....and somewhere deep inside of my neanderthal brain, I kept saying no. I spent forever getting my setup right where I wanted it. Changing this will be a huge transition and I will put me back in the learning curve.

Old dog new tricks... I am getting to be an old dog and don't really want to learn the new tricks hahaha

--Chris

PS I can wrong foot forward when I am moving, its trying to creep or start from a dead stop with wrong foot forward that I struggle with. I swear, every time I hit the throttle in that position, I either hit a bump or have to let off real quick and it damn near puts me over the bars

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

What I have come to realize (recently) is that for guys that ride straddled all the time, the bars can be up. I run the high bars + 1" riser (I am 6'0"). It is very comfortable to me and works perfect if you are always straddling. After riding with a guy in our group that does a lot of low speed, wrong foot forward creeping in the technical stuff, I realized that my higher bars do not work at all in that situation. The problem I am having is that I don't want to re-learn to ride! I can maneuver through about anything straddled, but you have to carry some speed doing that. Watching my riding buddy walk his through the really tight spots, I know that this is something I have got to learn. There are situations where you just cant straddle and throttle through.

Sat in the garage for over 2 hours Sunday staring at that 1" riser thinking, its gotta come off.....and somewhere deep inside of my neanderthal brain, I kept saying no. I spent forever getting my setup right where I wanted it. Changing this will be a huge transition and I will put me back in the learning curve.

Old dog new tricks... I am getting to be an old dog and don't really want to learn the new tricks hahaha

--Chris

PS I can wrong foot forward when I am moving, its trying to creep or start from a dead stop with wrong foot forward that I struggle with. I swear, every time I hit the throttle in that position, I either hit a bump or have to let off real quick and it damn near puts me over the bars

I think you would be surprised at how good that “new trick” works in the real steep stuff. ��
Think smooth thoughts..............

Even while straddling. (I’m 6’2” and run the mid bars)

You don’t have to go slow to find the benefits.

 

[Kguild19]

Hi guys,

I am looking deeper into this. The Polaris low bars have the 5" rise. Skinz makes ones that go lower. I am thinking maybe a 2" rise handlebar. At what point does lowering the handlebars negatively effect your riding? My main focus is mountain, technical, tree riding.

Thanks

 

[pauly815]

I found a Pro Tapper bar at my local mx shop, 1'' lower than the polaris bars. About 4'' of rise, I'm 5'7'' now every ones sled I've rode feels to tall and awkward. Also cut them 1'' narrower.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

Hi guys,

I am looking deeper into this. The Polaris low bars have the 5" rise. Skinz makes ones that go lower. I am thinking maybe a 2" rise handlebar. At what point does lowering the handlebars negatively effect your riding? My main focus is mountain, technical, tree riding.

Thanks

Unless you are like 5' 5" or shorter I don't think going lower then the OEM low bars will get you too much. If you start going stupidly low and end up super hunched over you begin to start standing in an akward position and are unable to ride practically in anything but an uphill climb/sidehill.

 

[Norway]

I found the sweet spot on my Pro with narrower and lower bars, but I cheat and use an adjustable riser. Bar is pretty much flat IQ rr bars.

When leaning into a sidehill, your arm needs to reach that outside end of the bars. Here is where the narrow helps.

And like mentioned, a big trick is having power and endurance to bend your knees while riding technical.. I find myself Challenged there, LOL.

Cheers

Sent fra min S60 via Tapatalk

 

[Colbymh]

I went with the low bars (5” rise) and it was a massive difference in how easy I could sidehill and get it over in comparison to the stock 7” rise.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

I found a good option from the MTN bike community.

Surly Sunrise handlebars (3.25” rise)

Fly 2” “tech” riser.

Cut the stock mtn bar and inserted into the crossbar.

My main goal was chromoly steel bars for extra hot hand warmers.

Built spacers to make the stock handlebar hooks work with the thinner wall tubing.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[BrapBirk]

Low bars for life!