Who has replaced their DD Bearing on 2010 with 5203 Bearing?

[Shift_Fast]

That's not correct.

There may be tunnel width issues, but the 2009 and 2010 gear sets are not the same. The 6203 bearing and spacer is wider on the 2009 and previous models than it is on the 2010 models. The stock bearing and spacer on the 2010s are ~15.9 mm and the 5203 is ~17.5 mm. You will be putting a side load on the bearings on both end of the gear set if you put the 5203 bearing in the 2010 case.

There are a few threads on this already. There is a 4203 bearing that is 16 mm wide. I would suggest you go that route instead of the 5203 for 2010s. For some reason, the 4203 are tricky to find in the US. If anyone is interested, I will have a few extra of these that I will sell at my cost. If anyone has a source in the US, please let us know.

Hey newtrout, any idea when those 4203's will be in? Let me know as I would like the 2 asap.

 

[Stack]

Ok, the 4203 bearings are VERY difficult to get, but through a variety of sources I was able to track down a Domestic company that carries these bearings.

Please look at the attachment, the company is Consolidated Bearings and they offer a sealed 4203 Euro Spec'd Bearing. They have stocking locations throughout the United States, and the attachment shows a few distributers in the Chicagoland area.

Under further research this looks to actually be a Chinese Made Bearing, but it is at least rated as an ABEC-1 which qaulifies it as a precision bearing (Scale is 1,3,5,7,9). There are many bearings out there that are not even ABEC rated, and I wonder if the OEM bearing CAT used has an ABEC rating?

Here is what my contact at Consolidated sent me via email:

John,

Nobody makes that anymore. We tried to get from other sources. We are stuck with the Chinese on this. We deal with a high quality factory. I suggest that you give it a shot. We have been selling them without any complaints or problems. We are the only company that I know that sells this series in the USA.

Regards,

Tom

I Hope this provides some help for those looking for a 4203 bearing on their 2010 M8

John

 

[newtrout]

Just got my first order of 4203s in this morning from the UK. I'll install one this afternoon and report back.

For comparison, looks like I should be able to have these to your door for ~$33 each in the US.

Good job on tracking some down in the states, UPJohn. Someone let us know what their prices are.

 

[Kid Rock]

i think alot of "experts" overanalyzed this thread and used it as a pulpit to take pictures of the tools they have in their garage.

replace it before it scatters, pin the flipper and spend your time worrying about face shots. (put oil in the case first)

sorry i dont have some fancy pics pointing to face shots or the oil fill plug

I have over 500 miles on mine and no garage sale yet. My 2007 made alot more noise than this one

 

[TalkAK]

Just got my first order of 4203s in this morning from the UK. I'll install one this afternoon and report back.

For comparison, looks like I should be able to have these to your door for ~$33 each in the US.

Good job on tracking some down in the states, UPJohn. Someone let us know what their prices are.

Newt... Are your 4203's angular contact. I have a order coming from the UK as well, should be in next week. They did not have the "A" designation in the part number but neither did some of the 6203's.

 

[Stack]

The only thing that concerns me is that I am being told from several in the industry that all of the sealed 4203 beaings are coming out of China and Taiwan right now. Although I was assured the 4203 bearing from China was from a reputable company in which consolidated bearing has not had an issue with; In my line of work I try to steer clear of Chinese and Taiwanese bearings if at all possible due to their quality record.

John

 

[TalkAK]

I hear you... curious to see these ones I ordered. I ran into one of the distributors for the 4203 on the web, in China. They had a picture of the "factory". Pretty funny, its was just a bit bigger than my garage, with all these lathes, and bearings sitting around on the floor.

 

[newtrout]

Yes. These are angular contact bearings.

Just got done with the install. I'm very satisfied. Like I found with the 5203 bearing, it's a little tougher to get the cover aligned on the case (did the install with the DD in the sled). The wider bearing doesn't allow the transfer gear to 'wobble'. Once I got both bearings aligned with the cover, it slid on and slapped tight against the case. With the 5203, it would not do this, and I had to snug the cover into place with the bolts.

 

[bgreen776]

I have been taught correct application for this style bearings would in a electric motor, something that sees no axial load (correct terminology?)

The correct application for a fan or pump would require what I call a thrust bearing, correct terminology would be angular contact ball bearing

Most electric motors, up to probably around 300 hp, have axial thrust loads because they don't necessarily run at Mag center. The bigger ones often don't have thrust bearings because they run at their magnetic center and don't need them. Most centrifugal pumps have thrust bearings because they generally thrust toward suction. The 4203, 5203, and 6203 bearings are capable of handling thrust loads in varrying degrees, but none of them should be used to locat our driveshafts, thats what the big bearings behind the brake should be used for.

 

[bgreen776]

i think alot of "experts" overanalyzed this thread and used it as a pulpit to take pictures of the tools they have in their garage.

replace it before it scatters, pin the flipper and spend your time worrying about face shots. (put oil in the case first)

sorry i dont have some fancy pics pointing to face shots or the oil fill plug

I have over 500 miles on mine and no garage sale yet. My 2007 made alot more noise than this one

Wow dude, thanks for letting me to never go out of my way to help you. Unreal.

 

[Stack]

i think alot of "experts" overanalyzed this thread and used it as a pulpit to take pictures of the tools they have in their garage.

replace it before it scatters, pin the flipper and spend your time worrying about face shots. (put oil in the case first)

sorry i dont have some fancy pics pointing to face shots or the oil fill plug

I have over 500 miles on mine and no garage sale yet. My 2007 made alot more noise than this one

Thank goodness there are some people that obsess over this stuff and are kind enough to post about it. Although anything you read about a potential problem will make you worry, at least you have the comfort to know that people are posting about how to fix that problem if anything ever happens to your sled.

I am really glad that there are people out there with the same passion in sleds as me, I am even more happy for those that take pics to show me how to fix things on my own!

John

 

[TalkAK]

Its just garage envy. I very much appreciate the time some put into helping and educating.

 

[CRJPilot]

Finally got sick of worrying and pulled out the trackshaft and brought it down to BDX last night and had him take off .050 from the trackshaft shoulder on the brake side. No worries anymore, case mounted flush to the chassis too now.

Anyone else melt the plastic washer/rubber boot on the trackshaft. Ray at BDX told me they dont even put them on cuz all they do is keep moisture trapped in, instead of keeping moisture out like it supposed to.

Anyone else also have B*tch of a time getting trackshaft out of the brake side bearing? I had to beat the piss out of it with a piece of solid round stock and 2lb hammer. Was splitting 2x4's left and right and not even budging it. I had BDX polish it up while on the lathe so it went back in nice with lots of grease.

 

[bgreen776]

Yes and yes.

I think the rubber boot is there to keep twigs and grass from wrapping around the shaft and taking out the lip seal. I've been packing them with grease to keep them from melting or just simply wearing away.