Who as stiffened up a gen two steering post by inserting a steel rod into the post?

[600xc4me]

I've got a 2000 gen two with a total of about 11.5" rise on the bars. I ran it last year with 5.25" rise no problem. But now that I added the RSI backcountry bars I can flex the steering post a lot, with little effort. And I don't expect it to hold up another winter now that it's got so much rise, it's like a lever on an already weak part. I have read on here about guys inserting a solid steel rod into the steering post to help keep it from bending with a riser. I'm wondering how many of you have done this with success? I'm wondering what size rod you are using, and how long? Do you just slide it in? Or should a guy tack it on from the top so it can't move up and down? My last resort will be wildchilds post, but I really don't want to dish out another $200. I already have $5000 into this sled, and it's my last winter riding it, so I would like to keep it cheap this winter.

Thanks

 

[AZ800]

Yeah, it works. Had one that bent, I bent it back, so it was extra weak then. Epoxied in a piece of round stock, full length ('cause I coudln't weld a shorter piece near the top) and rode it a whole season. It did flex more and this was with only a 2" riser...so it'll work, probably quite well it the post hasn't been bent yet.

 

[600xc4me]

Ok, thanks, yeah it's still straight, but I'm afraid it wont be for long if I don't do something about it.

 

[Ollie]

Don't do it. You will just transfer the weak point.
Trust me. I have 800 dollars worth of experience in that department.

I went the cheap route.
Sheered off the steering post, took out an 8" full throttle. Wiped out the right side of my 01 800. I did all the work myself which is why I got by with only 800 dollars.

Just buy the Chromoly post and be done with it.

 

[600xc4me]

Ouch, where did it break after you but the rod in there? Any other thoughts, good or bad idea?

 

[DusterB]

try getting a Edge steering post for cheep. They are alot better than the stock GenII ones. Also there are some aftermarket ones sold on here made from Chomoly (expensive though) But they'd worth it so you don't end up breaking off your bars! NOT FUN!!!

 

[Alberta Boy]

DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!!!!!
Spend the money and talk to wildchild on snowest. He can build you a chromoly steering post that is WAY stronger than stock. I am 6'3" and 240 lb and an agressive rider and that post didn't even think of budging with a 7" rise on it!

Get the greasable bearing with it as well... snugs it up nicely versus the stock support. You can get the post taller than stock or tilted up as well.

Best thing to do and will be the last post that you ever purchase!!!

 

[600xc4me]

Ok sounds like this isn't a good idea. Buts that's alright, that's why I asked. I emailed Kurt, (wildchild) See what kind of a price I can get on one.

 

[Ollie]

Ouch, where did it break after you but the rod in there? Any other thoughts, good or bad idea?

It actually snapped off right where the top plate was welded to the steering post.

I went with a Wildchild post (just like I had been told to to begin with). Never had a problem after that and I had a 6" riser with a 2" rise built into the bars.

 

[Dan]

I also recommend a chromoly steering post and fgreasable bearing

 

[600xc4me]

I havent heard back from him yet, does he also sell the greasable bearing kits?

 

[Ollie]

if he doesn't, these guys do (scroll to the bottom of the page)

http://www.hiperf.com/cgi-bin/sh000...nce_Accessories_70.html#a900_2d558#a900_2d558

 

[Squeal]

DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!!!!!
Spend the money and talk to wildchild on snowest. He can build you a chromoly steering post that is WAY stronger than stock. I am 6'3" and 240 lb and an agressive rider and that post didn't even think of budging with a 7" rise on it!

Get the greasable bearing with it as well... snugs it up nicely versus the stock support. You can get the post taller than stock or tilted up as well.

Best thing to do and will be the last post that you ever purchase!!!

Agreed, talk to WildChild, he built me one that has a 3" riser that has lasted for years. He also has a stronger column bushing/brace ( I dont know what you call it ) that helps alot.

 

[600xc4me]

Cool thanks, does anyone have a pic of that one for hiperf.com? I can't view it on their site. I'm wondering what it looks like.

 

[Alberta Boy]

Kurt does sell the greasable bearing. It is essentially a piece of billet aluminum that is 3/4" thick that attaches to the steering loop and bolts around the steering post. there is a plastic liner on the inside that has a grease nipple that injects grease into the liner. Works very well!

Spend the bucks... you won't regret it... ask the guys that did regret it and what it cost them in damage... or a lost day of riding!

 

[600xc4me]

Looks like if I send him my stock post, he'll sell me one for $145. I emailed him back asking on a price for the greasable bushing. We'll see, sounds pretty cheap if I send him my post.

 

[Alberta Boy]

Looks like if I send him my stock post, he'll sell me one for $145. I emailed him back asking on a price for the greasable bushing. We'll see, sounds pretty cheap if I send him my post.

I think that greasable bushing is $65 if you get it after the fact... it might be cheaper if you do it all at once!

Money well spent!

 

[2001rmk700]

i have a 2001 with 8 inch riser and am thinking getting on from wildchild but my question is do you have to pull the motor to chang it or are you able to sneak it around
thanks

 

[Ollie]

I removed the belt.
Remove the airbox.
Remove the carbs (and just move aside)
Remove the motor mount nuts.
"rock" the motor forward.
This will give you enough room to get to the nuts on the steering post to remove them.
it is tight, but I have done it on 4 sleds that way.
You don't have to remove anything, you do have to get the clutches realigned and it would be a good time to check the carb boots.

 

[Scott]

I remember people on this forum doing this about 6 years ago on the GenII RMKs.
Everyone that did it said it worked fine.
If you can get the rebar down past the steeing hoop bearing then you'll be FINE!!!!!!!!!
Just stuff a rag down there and use the rebar to push it down as far as you can...then dump your epoxy down there. It shouldn't leak down past the rag.