Which track??

[kevinm7]

I am putting a Trygstad 872 in the REV for this season. I am also going to be changing the track. I am stuck between 2 tracks. I can't seem to find anyone with any definitive advice on which to go with. The 2 tracks I am looking at are the Peak 2.5 or the Challenger Extreme 2.5. I will be going up to a 154" track. The sled is a 2007 REV. I do probably 90% off trail riding with a mixture of boondocking and climbing. So I am looking for some opinions/advice on which track AND why. I would like some real world experience, not just "this track is better cuz I say so" haha. Thanks guys!!

 

[backcountryislife]

just curious, but have you thought about the 156 3"? It's pricey, but if you're looking at a new track anyhow, it's not much more.

Just between those two though, the 2.5 CE is an amazing track, probably the best I've run. IMO it's a better track than the peak, but I've only ridden that one twice, so can't claim to know it well. The 2.5 does well in fluff and stiffer snow very well imo, tends to bite in on a harder sidehill nicely, and just seems to be a great all around track. I'd still go for a 3" though if I were going to get a new track in that length. We extend cats to 156 without using anything pretty often, I'd GUESS that the 154 rails could hold a 156 easily, worst case a little dremeling.

 

[kevinm7]

The only reason I haven't given any thought to a 3" is because I don't want to do the drop and roll. I can get away with a 2.5" track with 8 tooth 2.86 drivers without the drop and roll. If I am wrong, then someone please correct me. I would love to run a 3" track. I have 151" rails right now and I was going to take up the slack of the 154 by going with bigger wheels in the rear. Am I dreaming or will I need rail extensions?

 

[winter brew]

I would take the Peak off your list, no comparison betwen those 2 tracks. The Challenger 2.5 is the best all-around track there is IMO.
We found the Peak tended to trench more, which I have also heard from several customers, also saw some durability issues.

 

[wjl]

I had a 2.5 camo extreme on my 08 XP worked awesome. I got my advise from members here and bought from winterbrew.
Miss that sled. My even put one on my pro Rmk.

 

[backcountryislife]

So you can't toss the 3" on with 7 tooth drivers like you can on other sleds? Bummer, that's a very cool track, don't hear much negative about them.

 

[kevinm7]

So you can't toss the 3" on with 7 tooth drivers like you can on other sleds? Bummer, that's a very cool track, don't hear much negative about them.

I'm not sure if I would be able to or not. I will have to look into that. I think the issue becomes the clearance at the top of the track where it apexes under the tunnel. I would have to drop my rear suspension quite a bit and that would drastically change the ski pressure up front. Right? haha

 

[backcountryislife]

Well, if you change the front, you can mimic that to maintain a parallel plane from the rear, or rather than a parallel plane, maintain a plane that creates a line that leaves the skis the same distance offset from that line as stock.

The skid itself isn't the worry I wouldn't think, but drivers.


Btw, interesting thread on the 3" here:

http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/550546-3-inch-track-a-fad/

 

[kevinm7]

Yea, that's true. I guess I will just need to do some research on it. My engine is 6 weeks out so I have some time haha

 

[sledsrock]

You are correct about the 3 inch in the Rev. You need a D&R and 7 tooths to get it in. I just did one and it's some work but I know the benefits will be all smiles.

 

[kevinm7]

That's what I thought. I am trying to say away from the drop and roll. But.... If the benefits are really that great then I may have to throw caution to the wind and do it. @sledsrock, how many hours do you think it took you to do the drop and roll? Any specialty tools I should purchase if I go that route?

 

[kevinm7]

I guess another good question is, will I be able to take up the slack in a 156" track with the addition of 8" or 9" wheels both in the back and up top? My skid now is a 151". I would prefer not to do extensions, but I can look into it if I have to.

Really not even sure I want to go with a 3" track, but all of this information out there on that track is pretty convincing.

 

[sledsrock]

That's what I thought. I am trying to say away from the drop and roll. But.... If the benefits are really that great then I may have to throw caution to the wind and do it. @sledsrock, how many hours do you think it took you to do the drop and roll? Any specialty tools I should purchase if I go that route?

They don't call the 3" track the poor mans Turbo for nothing....lol. Like I said in my PM to you, I have way more hours in mine due to being an anal sob. No special tools needed. Just take your time and measure it all out accurately, remember - measure once cut twice, I mean......measure twice cut three times....well you get my drift....lol.

 

[kevinm7]

Man that SPI case is a thing of beauty. I wish I could get my hands on one. Too bad they don't make them anymore!!

 

[sledsrock]

I guess another good question is, will I be able to take up the slack in a 156" track with the addition of 8" or 9" wheels both in the back and up top? My skid now is a 151". I would prefer not to do extensions, but I can look into it if I have to.

Really not even sure I want to go with a 3" track, but all of this information out there on that track is pretty convincing.

You will need either drop brackets or smaller upper wheels for clearance reasons up top. Actually, you will to drop the skid a tad anyway for the D&R. Also, like I mentioned in the PM, you could always slide the skid back a tad more when you slide it back anyway for the D&R. An offset axle and big wheels will get you close, but i don't think enough. You will be going down in driver size too, so that doesn't help you in taking up the extra slack.

 

[kevinm7]

You will need either drop brackets or smaller upper wheels for clearance reasons up top. Actually, you will to drop the skid a tad anyway for the D&R. Also, like I mentioned in the PM, you could always slide the skid back a tad more when you slide it back anyway for the D&R. An offset axle and big wheels will get you close, but i don't think enough. You will be going down in driver size too, so that doesn't help you in taking up the extra slack.

I was planning on doing the drop bracket for the rear anyway. I need to find someone who has done this conversion and has it working correctly.

 

[Reeb]

I went to a 150x2.5 CE on my Rev. Best thing going is that CE track. The Peak, much like the Lite needs the front arm relocated about an inch UP to reduce attack angle and then it works better. But it will never be a CE track.

I've seen it time and time again that a D&R is the ultimate win-win for the Summit Rev's. I didn't get that far, and probably won't get that far on the old girl. But the CE is a good addition regardless of a D&R.

 

[bohrer54]

On my 04 rev I have an extended chaincase that drops it about 3/4" down and back and when I put on my 163" 2.5 camo extreme I used 8 tooth drivers and still have about 1/2" clearance around the drivers. The skid is dropped a little in the front and the back so clearance there is not a problem, but I think the 3" would require more clearance around the drivers then what I have.

On to the track, the 2.5" camo extreme is an excellent track, I changed from a 2.3" 159" powder max track and the difference was crazy. It changed the whole sled 10x. I would recommend that track to anyone.

Good luck

 

[kevinm7]

So, I ordered the CE in 154x2.5. Should be here Monday. Next question. I talked to Jason at TEAM and he has me setup on my clutching needs. He made some recommendations for my gearing as well, changing it to a 20/49 per his advice. What specs am I looking at? I know that the 20 and 49 are the external teeth, but what internal teeth numbers do I need for the top and bottom both? And are the top and bottom both 15 wide? And lastly, what size chain will I need for this change? Thanks for all your help guys!!!

 

[Vailguy]

So, I ordered the CE in 154x2.5. Should be here Monday. Next question. I talked to Jason at TEAM and he has me setup on my clutching needs. He made some recommendations for my gearing as well, changing it to a 20/49 per his advice. What specs am I looking at? I know that the 20 and 49 are the external teeth, but what internal teeth numbers do I need for the top and bottom both? And are the top and bottom both 15 wide? And lastly, what size chain will I need for this change? Thanks for all your help guys!!!

Answer to your gear and clutching questions...https://www.ibackshift.com/article/top-speed-calculation-133.asp


answer to your extension needs. My MM offset axle and fabcraft 8" -$130, PM if interested.

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