Which clutch weights for the Valemount, BC area?

[dirk_d]

Hey guys. I bought a 2012 Pro RMK 800 155" and I'm about to hit up the mountains for the first time on the 26th. I was looking at the elevation of the Valemount area and there is quite a variance from place to place. Obviously it's going to be like that in the mountains.

My question is, how do you determine which clutch weights to run based on the span of elevation in the area you are riding in. ie: 2000 to 6000 ft.

My guess is to pick a weight set for the highest elevation you expect to reach, and try not to over rev it at lower elevations?

Valemount itself is 2667 ft and some of the peaks around it are 6000 ft, maybe higher. I don't have any intentions of doing any crazy high-marking stuff my first time out. Mostly just looking for some deep powder to ride around in.

Here are the options:
10-62 = 6000 to 8000 ft (stock ones which I have)
10-64 = 4000 to 6000 ft
10-66 = 2000 to 4000 ft
10-68 = 0 to 2000 ft (what I use at home)

If you know of any websites with tips for noobie mountain rides, I'm interested in that as well.

Thanks

 

[shell_guy]

You wan to pick weights depending on how the machine is running, rider weight and snow conditions also play a role in picking the right weight. I would ride the sled and put atleast 12 hours on it first to break in since it will gain a few hp when broken in. After its broke in then go for a ride and see what the tach is doing, if your consistantly running more then 8000rpm then add weight, 1g per arm is about 100rpm. Load it up till it starts under revving. Also remeber that if you do any mods (PA head or SLP pipe) you will have to add weight so I would look at your plans for the sled before buying any weights. If you plan on adding a few mods here and there then wait to buy clutching stuff till after you buy the goodies.

 

[dirk_d]

I've got 300 miles on it now with the 10-68 weights. It stays at 8000 under WOT so I think I'm going to have to run the 10-66 ones at home just to bump up the RPM a bit. I'm not a real big guy. Around 185 maybe, haven't weighed myself in a while....lol. So I might as well buy both the 66s and 64s and I'll be ready for anything.

I'm not planning on modding this sled. Maybe some vent upgrades if anything. But that might change once I try it in the mountains a few times.

Thanks

 

[dschwindt]

Weight

When my 2011 pro assault 155" was not turbod I was running 10-64 weights at home 3000' and the same in Valemount. I am 190 lbs and rest of the sled was stock. Clemina creek starts at 2500' and up to 7500' in the bowls near the cabin these are the weights I was running but obviously running heavier now with more hp.

 

[shell_guy]

I've got 300 miles on it now with the 10-68 weights. It stays at 8000 under WOT so I think I'm going to have to run the 10-66 ones at home just to bump up the RPM a bit. I'm not a real big guy. Around 185 maybe, haven't weighed myself in a while....lol. So I might as well buy both the 66s and 64s and I'll be ready for anything.

I'm not planning on modding this sled. Maybe some vent upgrades if anything. But that might change once I try it in the mountains a few times.

Thanks

If you are pulling 8000RPM then don't change anything.

 

[F-Bomb]

He's pulling 8 at home with 68 grams. Unless you are pulling 8300 under no load on the trail and then have a dramatic fade to 8000 in deep or loaded conditions (doesn't have to be a hill just pulling down deep snow) leave it alone. Most likely you are a experiencing really good setup.

REMEMBER: disregard what you hear read or think on this stock sled application concerning RPM other than THE FACT THAT you absolutely make the most HP/TORQUE between 7950-8050. The ultimate clutch kit pulls hard to that RPM and sets there in stone...no matter if you are in deep snow on a hill or on a trail. It's super difficult to find with this sled and so far we have found only ONE WAY to get there. Trust me it is FAR AND AWAY SUPERIOR TO STOCK. That will be down the road for you if you want.

Based on your comments I'd buy all of the weight combo's for your special trip and leave the rest as your dealer set it up initially. They are simple to change right where you are riding. Who knows exactly what altitude you will end up spending your time in or the exact conditions. Obviously a few hundred in clutch components isn't effecting your financial world so GO BOY SCOUT on this one. The other tipster also was correct in that this system must be LOADED. It is the magical secret of the PRO for clutching. THROW AS MUCH WEIGHT AS SHE WILL TAKE! All that said on a hill if you sled will not pull full out at to 7900 it's a total dog. There is quick and immediate fall off when you can't pull the top end R's on a climb. This is why so many people are fooled into thinking you need more R's on this application. It happens so quickly between 8100 minimum and dropping below 7900 and killing performance that shops and tuners simply cheat the system by over revving and settling because they can't find correct clutch balance. For those sleds more is definitely better than less. (unless of course you are racing me for your MONEY)

Report back how you did on your trip and what you thought about your sled. If it rips and holds 8000 without smoking belts you've found happiness. Then think in terms that I can make your sled go 10 lengths faster with $650 more bucks and some stones on your part to take the dive! IT'S A WHOLE NEW WORLD OF COOL ON A PRO!