Does the 9R gain rpm when it comes out of break-in? My Boost didn't gain rpm, but my 800 gained like 250 once out of break-in. My should be done with break-in on the next ride and I'm revving 8600rpm @ 6500ft. Trying to decide between just swapping in a 120/320 primary spring, buying Polaris 74g or 76g weights, or going with the Bikeman stage 1 kit...
9R clutching
- Thread starter mk818
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Spring is the cheapest route.
It also helps that I have a new spring lying around. Might go that route for now, since we are leaving for BC again in a few days.
120/320
140/330
I wonder if the 120-320 spring will lower the engagement rpm too much? I see SLP sells a 140-320 spring. A tech I spoke with has had really good results with the Bikeman stage 1 kit on his personal 9R after 2000km. Ibexx makes a nice kit, but expensive and includes a helix, which I'm not sure why, unless it's intended to replace the low elevation helix. I was under the impression the Polaris high elevation helix is good. I'm a little hesitant now with Ibexx since my Boost helix was incorrectly cut. Ibexx warrantied a new helix, but it doesn't inspire confidence for me to run out and buy another kit.
I'll throw in here for what it's worth, running a 9r 146, ran stock high elevation clutching last year. Decided to go with only changing to boondocker talon weights. Pretyy happy with resutls. Seems zippier and holds rpm better. Not sure they would make a difference on backshifting but that was better this year too.
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Reddragon800
Well-known member
Anyone looking for 9R clutching for 5-7000' and a 7-9000' kit. I have what your looking for. I use EPI weights, venom springs and venom cuts my angles. Loads the sled like a big bore should be. Have been testing all over Revelstoke. Check out my instagram and facebook accounts. SRP.
I have found that the 56-42.36 is too much helix and gone to shallower angles and more primary weight. Makes more tracks speed, backshifts way better and holds rpm at 8400.
I have found that the 56-42.36 is too much helix and gone to shallower angles and more primary weight. Makes more tracks speed, backshifts way better and holds rpm at 8400.
I just seen Bryce's video with the tune and clutching you did on his Boost. He definitely looks happy with it.
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Reddragon800
Well-known member
Ya. Those 14 series weights just dont work for the boost. Check out, gmanfreeman300 on instgram. His 9R flies.
To add to what Bryce was saying, You get a ton of value with this set up. Some competitors are charging almost $2000 Canadian or more for a clutch kit, tune and programmer. I charge under $1200... installed. Sled works so much better, makes more power, better bottom end and response.
What is the proper float spec? I had my clutches off to have balanced. When I put the secondary back on I have 0.015” float and I’m looking everywhere in the garage thinking I lost one of the washers that goes on the bolt…lol.
Re-measured and my 9R secondary has 0.018” float and wife’s 850 has 0.027”.
On my last trip to the mountains I picked up some 14-74 weights from a dealer. Riding with the stock 140/330 spring at 6500ft in above freezing temps I was revving 8500 on my 165. So next day very similar conditions went to a 120-320 spring and was seeing 8450. However the new 74g weights made the sled nearly unrideable to me due to excess vibration in the bars between 5000-6000rpm. Polaris must balance the clutch fully assembled because the 74g’s weighed similar to each other, but it turns out one of the original 72g weights weighed a gram more than the other two, and the sled was pretty smooth with those weights in there.
Ibexx kits were on for 15% off so I decided to go that route, since I’ve been hearing pretty good things the last couple years about Ibexx on the 9R. The Ibexx weights loaded for my altitude weigh dead on 59.30 grams. I guess they use a different weight profile and helix angle to load the sled, so I’m really curious to see what lightening up the primary clutch that much does for the response. I ran the sled up on the stand and engagement is around 3750 rpm. I installed the kit and then had the primary rebalanced fully assembled at an engine shop. I doubt I’ll get a chance to ride it this year, unless snow conditions change in BC.
Trying out this bearing under the gold cup that is supposed to make shifts smoother. Also put two slip washers behind the primary spring.
On my last trip to the mountains I picked up some 14-74 weights from a dealer. Riding with the stock 140/330 spring at 6500ft in above freezing temps I was revving 8500 on my 165. So next day very similar conditions went to a 120-320 spring and was seeing 8450. However the new 74g weights made the sled nearly unrideable to me due to excess vibration in the bars between 5000-6000rpm. Polaris must balance the clutch fully assembled because the 74g’s weighed similar to each other, but it turns out one of the original 72g weights weighed a gram more than the other two, and the sled was pretty smooth with those weights in there.
Ibexx kits were on for 15% off so I decided to go that route, since I’ve been hearing pretty good things the last couple years about Ibexx on the 9R. The Ibexx weights loaded for my altitude weigh dead on 59.30 grams. I guess they use a different weight profile and helix angle to load the sled, so I’m really curious to see what lightening up the primary clutch that much does for the response. I ran the sled up on the stand and engagement is around 3750 rpm. I installed the kit and then had the primary rebalanced fully assembled at an engine shop. I doubt I’ll get a chance to ride it this year, unless snow conditions change in BC.
Trying out this bearing under the gold cup that is supposed to make shifts smoother. Also put two slip washers behind the primary spring.
I think you have mounted the secondary clutch slightly in the wrong order. Washer in the bottom, bearing and gold cup on top. The bearing is much harder than aluminium so that's the reason you should put the washer in the bottom.
There is a washer under the bearing. The kit came with two washers and recommended to install a washer on each side of the bearing.
I think you have mounted the secondary clutch slightly in the wrong order. Washer in the bottom, bearing and gold cup on top. The bearing is much harder than aluminium so that's the reason you should put the washer in the bottom.
There is a washer under the bearing. The kit came with two washers and recommended to install a washer on each side of the bearing.
What is everyone seeing for clutching in the 2025 9Rs? I have the high elevation clutching with left over 78 gram boost weights and it seems to be pulling good RPM at 4-6K'.
^^^ what rpm are you seeing at that elevation, and how is the back shift with them weights
