Which belt is everyone running?
- Thread starter Empire087
- Start date
Thanks for the pics; for some reason I was picturing trimming the cogs across the top of the belt (which, of course, didn't make much sense). I remember reading that one of the more expensive Poo belts had a machined finish – or something like that. Guessing that means they do something similar to this. I'll try trimming the top cogs on my Gates belts, hopefully that'll eliminate the off-idle squeal and creeping without having to run a looser deflection. One question though: looks like you trim it flat to the plane of the belt, not trying to match the side angle, is that correct?
Thanks for the question, basically 90* to the top.
Last edited:
Do we have a simplified chart that shows the correct part numbers for 800’s 08-15, 16-20, and 850’s?
08-15 44C4553
16-20 45C4553
850. 45C4553
You can use a 47C4572 on all models, it’s a longer belt for those long center to center measured sleds.
In reality you can run any of these Gates belts. Sheave angles on the Polaris clutch’s vary widely. So do the belt to sheave measurements from the factory. Check yours to verify it’s within spec.
16-20 45C4553
850. 45C4553
You can use a 47C4572 on all models, it’s a longer belt for those long center to center measured sleds.
In reality you can run any of these Gates belts. Sheave angles on the Polaris clutch’s vary widely. So do the belt to sheave measurements from the factory. Check yours to verify it’s within spec.
Gates Carbon, broken in per the manufacturer process. We will spend an early season morning on the trail breaking in some spare belts so they are ready for the deep days. If you don't break these belts in properly, they won't perform to their potential.
Gates New Belt Break In Process:
Gates New Belt Break In Process:
- New belts require a break-in period of a minimum 30 miles and two heat cycles to maximize belt life and performance. The goal of the break-in period is to properly wear in the belt to match the sheaves before applying maximum engine torque. By conservatively running through the entire shift range, proper belt contact over the entire sheave/belt contact path is optimized to eliminate belt slippage and drastically increase the belt’s lifespan.
- Blow out the clutches with compressed air if possible. This removes dust, dirt and debris and allows the clutch system to operate correctly. If the previous belt broke, remove all the debris and cord if any is left in the Primary or Secondary clutches.
- Clean the clutch sheaves with maroon Scotch Brite pads and wipe them clean with alcohol or acetone poured or sprayed on a rag – do not spray into the clutches. This removes the old belt residue and oils which causes the new belt to slip and glaze. It also provides the new belt a clean surface to transfer power.
- Install new belt so it can be read right side up. Do Not roll or pry in the new belt. You may need to adjust your deflection. See the owner’s manual for proper alignment and Center to Center distances of the clutch system.
- Perform 2 Heat Cycles.
- HEAT CYCLE 1: Drive the unit for 20 minutes avoiding hard accelerations and hills - conservatively running through the entire shift range, without exceeding ¾ throttle. Flat terrain works best.
- After 20 minutes of driving, let the unit cool down for 30 minutes with the motor off.
- Repeat the HEAT CYCLE: for a second time. Let the belt cool down again for 30 minutes and you have a well broken in belt.
Well i did try a continental belt(because my local autozone is supposed to start stocking them), was very tight to begin with, but i adjusted the deflection so it was good, was taking it a relative easy on for breaking literal trail through 2 feet of fresh, and after about 25 miles it popped both cords and delaminated. Wasnt shocked, judging by construction. Will end up buying a gates here pretty quick.
I've heard many are having good luck with the 3211216 from the 850, with no heat fade like is seen with the 1183. I haven't tried one yet myself, but might lean that way when the time comes.