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Wheres APT Smartcarb ?

stock

Yours probably works good because its a stock CR500 engine without porting?
Ultimately I had a bad carb from APT and a bad programmable CDI from Roosty that I found myself after a 2 years of tinkering so I avoid modifications anymore.
Even after a brand new Honda ignition the PWK started in a single kick cold every day but the updated 38mm smartcarb (which should start better because of more signal) would fire but die and then not start at all.
Its documented here. I would avoid porting cylinders and cases like I had in my CR500 if I ever tried one again.
https://youtu.be/H9d7U1acTzk
https://youtu.be/C_cAjkaE_YA
 
Not sure, but they did a really good job. I usually do all of my porting and case matching, but when I pulled it apart to do it, I discovered it had already been done. I was a tech for a long time as well as a mx racer. One of my sponsors did all of my porting back in the day and taught me how to do it. I have done my own ever since. I usually don't mess with the port height though. Most of the time that is not needed. My bike runs super crisp and smooth throughout both with the keihin carb and the smart carb. Will idle all day long with the smart carb but not with the Keihin. I also use about a third less fuel with the Smart carb and it runs the same at 2000 ft at the snow park as it does at 6500 feet. I can't say that my seat of the pants Dyno could agree with the more horsepower claim, but that's not why I wanted the carb. Metering for elevation, idle, less fuel consumption, ability to install the KTM style screw in heater, and ease of starting were the reasons I purchased. Everything but the ease of starting was delivered until I sent it off for the modifications. Now it starts with ease and I'm happy :-)
 
Oh, I forgot to mention. It starts with one kick in shoes :-) also, I have the stock ignition with the addition of a lighting coil from Ricky Stator and a 13 ounce flywheel weight. Tried the service Honda ignition and it was great, but not $600 great. Was lucky enough to be able to borrow my buddies ignition to try it out before dropping $600. Decided to go this route and am super happy I did
 
post a video of it working

Oh, I forgot to mention. It starts with one kick in shoes :-) also, I have the stock ignition with the addition of a lighting coil from Ricky Stator and a 13 ounce flywheel weight. Tried the service Honda ignition and it was great, but not $600 great. Was lucky enough to be able to borrow my buddies ignition to try it out before dropping $600. Decided to go this route and am super happy I did
If you have one, please post a video of the SC and while riding the bike :). There is a shortage of videos showing a working SC on 500's on bikes other than technicians like Roosty and Randy's.
 
I saw the 25 watt lightning coil on his sight for 53 bucks. Wonder how it works and what it takes to get it running. And yeah, if it even works.

edit: read it won't work running it through a rectifier, just not enough power.
 
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I think elevation has something to do with performance of the smartcarb and porting of cylinder heads.
Most of you guys are riding at 2000 ft or lower elevations = higher air pressure.
For most of you in the mountains above 4000 ft, well the air pressure is going to be low anywhere in north america.
I have a 2015 KTM XC-W and its been challenging to get running sharply as the CR500 I had.
2015 300XC-W storey:
The stock bike had a 165 main jet, I now have a 157 main and it still too rich.
The stock bike had a NECG needle, the third I am trying is the leanest NECJ.
The stock bike had a 38 pilot jet, i have a 35 pilot at 3.5 turns out on Air Screw.
The stock bike had a 7.0 slide, I have an 8.0 slide in it now.
This bike is still not crisp enough but getting better.
What these huge jetting adjustments on the new 300 XC-W tell me is that with Roostius Maximus's porting on my CR500 I had may have been too much volume (low compression) for the 6000 ft mountains with dry air I ride in. Roosty's at 700 ft elevation. Roosty's smartcarbs would also start in a couple kicks.
Now the CR500 ran pretty damn good with a 38mm PWK but I don't think it had enough compression with Roosty's head mods.
Now with a 38mm Smartcarb on it, the CR500 never started once in less than 40 kicks ;). Would more cylinder head compression have helped? Who knows.
All I know is KTM SX heads are higher compression for higher elevations.
Seems to be the consistent storey I am finding over 6000 ft in dry air conditions. That might possibly apply to most of the riders Chris is familar with having SC not working.
My thoughts,
Patch


As far as my Smartcarb goes I right with wheels 3000 to 11000 on the 300 which is ported and high compression from gore. Once my used smarty was rebuilt 0 issues... Using q9

Cr500 winter only ported high compression only can run 100 octane... Idles without issue and runs good with the q5 and will be running a q3 with an egt in a second.. Once set last year never touched for the rest of the season... Don't know I would go wth any solution that I did not have to change jetting all the time... If I would have known about the pulse would have tried but went with the smarty and the heater and seems to be good... As I go richer it gets better... It would not idle with the q11 but would run... Then the q7 it would idle and everything was better... Then q5 again a huge upgrade in the top end... So hoping the q3 is perfect .... As far as starting when cold I added a primer from the start... 1st to 5th kick no matter the temp..


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As far as my Smartcarb goes I right with wheels 3000 to 11000 on the 300 which is ported and high compression from gore. Once my used smarty was rebuilt 0 issues... Using q9

Cr500 winter only ported high compression only can run 100 octane... Idles without issue and runs good with the q5 and will be running a q3 with an egt in a second.. Once set last year never touched for the rest of the season... Don't know I would go wth any solution that I did not have to change jetting all the time... If I would have known about the pulse would have tried but went with the smarty and the heater and seems to be good... As I go richer it gets better... It would not idle with the q11 but would run... Then the q7 it would idle and everything was better... Then q5 again a huge upgrade in the top end... So hoping the q3 is perfect .... As far as starting when cold I added a primer from the start... 1st to 5th kick no matter the temp..


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I was running the 0.080 rod here at 62 clicks which theoretically should be the perfect rod in terms of the clicker setting...Ran worse the richer the needle 0.078 0.076 0.074
https://youtu.be/LyUQ_EvOZ8M
 
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I was running the 0.080 rod here at 62 clicks which theoretically should be the perfect rod in terms of the clicker setting...Ran worse the richer the needle 0.78 0.76 0.74
https://youtu.be/LyUQ_EvOZ8M


I seem to be one of the few as I go richer it gets better... I have a pretty radical porting job with the exhaust bridge delete... I will report the egt's once I get everything buttoned up... All the rods my bike will run but with the leaner ones it will not idle... And run warm as I go richer it idles better and then pulls higher Rpms... But I found the same thing happened on my 300 the q11 ran but had issues idling then moved to the q9 idled great and has a much better top end pull..

Now for a while on the 300 I could never get it to start right or would always have dead spots in the rpm range... Sent it to be rebuilt all issues went away...


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If you have one, please post a video of the SC and while riding the bike :). There is a shortage of videos showing a working SC on 500's on bikes other than technicians like Roosty and Randy's.


I will dig some up. I have some on dirt and snow :) won't be able to do it for a week or so though. Leave for a week long hunting trip tomorrow.
 
I think it's clear now why all the bashing...

Unfortunately, what's not clear is if the SC works well for 500's with various configurations (porting, compression, etc). Wish things were more consistent but hard to tell if people with issues had all the correct updates?
 
Unfortunately, what's not clear is if the SC works well for 500's with various configurations (porting, compression, etc). Wish things were more consistent but hard to tell if people with issues had all the correct updates?


I would agree... I know even smart carb will say it's hit or miss and they are making a step richer than the q3 because of various issues... Like I have said before I have ran the metered carb on a few machines so maybe I have had more time to know how to tune but I am far from a mechanic


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I would agree... I know even smart carb will say it's hit or miss and they are making a step richer than the q3 because of various issues... Like I have said before I have ran the metered carb on a few machines so maybe I have had more time to know how to tune but I am far from a mechanic

Good point. There are many factors that a lot of folks don't realize. The detonation issue that has haunted some bikes is likely due to a tight squish. "Back in the day", 20 year old thinking, we modded the heck out of the cylinders and added tons of compression and squish to make the most of what we had. We had gobs of wet, raw fuel and it worked well. We have kept those old engine ideas but our fuel/Air charges have changed significantly. Now with super atomization we have increased the surface area of the fuel charge so much that our burn speed has increased about triple. Tight squish will create a deto monster for sure. I have excellent success with the Smart Carb and super atomization but do not run a tight squish. The reason going back to an old carb solves their problem is because the engine is then being fed raw, wet fuel. Detonation goes away.
KTM has verified this in an indirect way. They released their new head last year. It is an open dome style with little squish. That is a preparation step for EFI. Going to a super atomized fuel charge requires a more modern head design, not the old way we did it with tight squish and raw, wet fuel from a traditional carb.

I feel the inconsistencies are from every engine and every head being different. We will never see a consistency between so many different engines. All of the after market heads available. Some with optional dome inserts. Engine builders all mill and mod heads slightly different. With that major inconsistency in the vitally important subject of heads, combustion, and burn speeds, the public will never see any consistency. I personally have had consistent, excellent results. The common denominator is the consistency of my builds and the understanding of how our super atomized fuel charge behaves. I run open dome heads with little squish and consistent fuels. Something to think about. We all have immediately "blamed" a carburetor. I don't think the carb is the inconsistent factor at all. The engines, mod's and tunes are what is inconsistent. With correct, consistent engines, I get the same consistent excellent results.
 
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So what we are hearing is if the engine isnt perfectly modified for smartcarbs needs it wont work. Is that what your saying ? So it doesnt work on all engines in different states of tune. That more or less nixes a lot of motors imo. So buy a Smartcarb and hope it works ? 700 for a shot in the dark. How do u suppose people who really have little for eng build/mechanical know how, make their engines consistent ?

PWK carbs pulsed or not work well on these other motors. Some would argue they run no different. The fuel economy is neglible. So whats the real benefit ? Alt comp ? Dont blame the carb when it really doesnt do what it overall really should do ? Ran into two other guys having issues with the billet on the CR500. Maybe they should rebuild their motors to Smartys specs so the carb will work........ Please
 
........ Please


That is not what’s being said. According to wwillf01 and Rolling 20’s both are on this very thread claiming they have good working SmartCarb’s with different CR500 configurations, as do others on other forums. Currently the main discussion on this completely derailed thread is in regard to CR500s and the mixed bag of results people are having. So what’s really going on here?

Antagonism clearly. But the real issue is what is being done or can be done to take advantage of high atomization fuel systems on CR500’s. CR500 people know that Honda systematically detuned the liquid cooled CR500 during it’s nearly 20 year run from the glory days of 1988 and the anemic end result is what led to a fairly thriving aftermarket of modifications and improvements. I don’t have all the facts or all the known nuances about that but I can say that they were the first anomaly we ran across as we started getting a sizeable amount of carburetors in the field. What I mean is the first set of bikes that needed progressively richer metering rods than the standard metering rod covering the majority of products we were putting carbs on, including snowmobiles, Karts and primarily the Enduro market we had targeted. They were all over the map, some responded well to the standard Q11/.080” metering rod, others would try to spit the piston out on the floor regardless of what metering rod/click you tried.

I believe one if not the most widely misunderstood part of a well-built/tuned two stroke is the head, or perhaps the head of the tuner, I don’t know.

A two stroke combustion chamber appears pretty straight forward but plays a major role in how the engine turns heat into good clean roost. There are actually quite a few components that interrelate to how well the head can do its job but I’ll keep it simple.

The three main things to look at are squish, quench and surface area to volume ratio. Inside the combustion chamber, the squish band and quench area comprise the same features, are closely related, but do two totally different things.

1. The squish band acts to create turbulence, or a mixing of the air/fuel charge as the piston is compressing it (hence the term squish). This makes a more homogenous mixture that requires less ignition advance. Faster combustion means we can run later ignition timing, which results in higher combustion pressures and thus more power. Think of it as fanning the flame.

2. This same area is also designed to trap significant amounts of raw fuel to cool (quench) the air/fuel charge and thereby prevent detonation and or pre-ignition. (As a side note this is a really important aspect of quench combustion control because it relates to excessive unburned hydrocarbon emissions in hi-po two strokes, and is one reason KTM and others are starting to show up with new larger “open chamber” minimal squish band combustion chambers.) Anyway we're learning new ways to do it but the idea is to deliberately concentrate and trap excess fuel between the piston crown and cylinder head and hold it there during the combustion process. This boundary layer effectively cools the outer edge of the piston crown and combustion chamber with raw fuel. The evaporative cooling effects provided by the more or less liquid fuel, quickly stabilize the atomized end gases that surround the combustion chamber thereby preventing detonation and/or pre-ignition. (A typical squish/quench band in a modern two-cycle engine comprises 50% of the bore diameter and is on the average of .055” thick.)

3. Surface to volume ratio is the relationship between the total CC’s of combustion chamber volume, relative to the compression sweep of the cylinder after exhaust port closing. The importance of keeping this area to a minimum is to limit the size of the area so as to not allow too much time for the combusted mixture to reach the ends of the chamber. This is especially critical in a large bore, over square engine, such as a CR500. 84.5mm X 89mm I believe. Contrastingly, Kawasaki’s KX 500 is 86mm X 86mm.

Again, I personally do not know enough about CR500’s to know how much they changed the head over the years or all the varieties of stroker kits, port jobs or aftermarket or modified combustion chambers but it’s clear this is still one of the most prolific and emulated engines around and that some of the better ones are over 25 years old.

To Mtn-Doo’s point there have been strides made in combustion chamber design over the last 25 years and a majority of manufacturers have made changes for no other reason than to just deal with fuel quality and differing seasonal blends that continue to evolve, others, like KTM are clearly beginning work with DFI as evidenced by their latest combustion chamber designs that will allow for very high speed plume injection and the faster burn rate that a highly vaporized mix creates.

So what have they done? They’ve minimized the squish/quench area to both slow down the flame front (less fanning and turbulence) and opened up the surface area to take advantage (someday) of high speed DFI injection and move power up because of the faster, cleaner burn provided by the finely atomized fuel. While worrying less about detonation as the fire is already out by the time the flame front reaches the edges of the combustion chamber and the piston begins to move away from the head.

An additional benefit of a highly vaporizing carburetor is that a fine fuel vapor pulls more heat out the engine especially if aspirated through the crankcase, than a wet mixture, further atomizing the fuel in the process.

To get the best resullts out of a SmartCarb on your CR500, or any bike for that matter, then the short answer for most is this:

Pick a fuel and stick with it.
Pick an oil and stick with it.
Make sure the intake is free of obstruction that can cheat the venting/float bowl pressurization circuit.
Tune your carb.

If modified:

Loosen up the squish a little from what you would normally consider running (this will vary of course) and/or be prepared to run race fuel or additives. If you have a way to calculate your squish velocity and modify your heads then shoot for 25m/s max when running highly atomized fuel/oil mixtures.
 
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