Friend rode his xp for the first time since driveshaft bannana-peeled. We rode Calispell yesterday and his sled had no brakes. Dealer said give them a few miles and they will come back. Not so. No brakes after 25miles, At rest 20 pumps would build-up lever, but as soon as the sled would move 10 feet, no brakes! Way to unsafe, so our very short ride ended at another dealer, Roundy's, who solved the problem, bent rotor. It's wobble pushed the pucks too far back for the lever to squeeze the disk properly. If your shaft broke, and your brakes have not been the same since, check your rotor. This rotor had a quarter inch wobble, and was not immediately obvious with shield in place.
When your XP driveshaft broke....
- Thread starter Perry B
- Start date
Good to know but hope never to have either issues!!
S
SilverGriz
Well-known member
I noticed this also. Mine were soft for a the first ride and are now back in good working order. Thanks for the info on the rotor.
We had a guy break his drive shaft also. Should of left it there for the Dealer to get out but we had a older Ski-doo that pulled him out. Problem is now the older ski-doo guy wants a replacment belt for ruining his pulling this (Lightweight) sled out and the XP owner isn't worried about it because he's out now....I wonder about these guys that pay dang near 10000 for a sled and then when it breaks and they get pulled out they are your best friend untill you reach the truck. What does your group do as our group doesn't want to ruin there xp's by pulling the dead one out. Are they built that light??
Think you should change the title to IF and not WHEN. 3 in our group all original driveshaft and 2 have them have been rode harder than most sleds should, although i do not expect that to last long
F
fassteddie
Well-known member
they are built as lite a tison sled of a few yrs back and those guys not only would not tow they would barley ride. lets see if when cat,pol and yam finally build a lite weight sled if they are willing to be the tow sled. if the guy needs a new belt for pulling a guy out get it for him it's better then calling in the heli that graveler always talks about.
Avid's Dual Path Drive Shaft
We are working on this and will have it soon.
Skidoo has had a problem with their hollow drive shaft. The welds on the power side are breaking and stranding many snowmobiliers, including the owner of Avid Products.
Our local dealer sold 130 sleds last year. They had 25-30 shafts break. Skidoo replaces the shafts under warrantee, but they are the same design. We have come up with a fix that will give some redundancy and reduce the loads on the power side of the shaft.
Drive shafts are under tremendous loads when a sled is working hard. Not only in torsion, but the shaft also has to flex forward and backward as the suspension goes up and down. There is only about .375” overlap between the outer piece that is splined and the center assembly. There is a lot of load going thru that one spot.
We have designed a reinforcing tube to go inside the stock axle. It is machined for a Zero/zero fit. This tube goes inside the outer pieces much farther than stock. This makes the shaft more rigid. Both ends are welded to the stock shaft. The power now can flow from the chaincase side and be transferred to the clutch side. The weld on the power end of the stock shaft can be compromised and the sled will still work.
We now feel better about driving into a hole and not worrying about our drive shaft breaking.
We are working on this and will have it soon.
Skidoo has had a problem with their hollow drive shaft. The welds on the power side are breaking and stranding many snowmobiliers, including the owner of Avid Products.
Our local dealer sold 130 sleds last year. They had 25-30 shafts break. Skidoo replaces the shafts under warrantee, but they are the same design. We have come up with a fix that will give some redundancy and reduce the loads on the power side of the shaft.
Drive shafts are under tremendous loads when a sled is working hard. Not only in torsion, but the shaft also has to flex forward and backward as the suspension goes up and down. There is only about .375” overlap between the outer piece that is splined and the center assembly. There is a lot of load going thru that one spot.
We have designed a reinforcing tube to go inside the stock axle. It is machined for a Zero/zero fit. This tube goes inside the outer pieces much farther than stock. This makes the shaft more rigid. Both ends are welded to the stock shaft. The power now can flow from the chaincase side and be transferred to the clutch side. The weld on the power end of the stock shaft can be compromised and the sled will still work.
We now feel better about driving into a hole and not worrying about our drive shaft breaking.
I have to chime in here ,,
I have 8 snocross teams all using the same driveshaft all with same issue as the trail sled and NOT ONE PERIOD has had an issue with a shaft..!!
NOT ONE !!!!
I have solved the issue of the so called weak weld"" or inproper assembly theory as per BRP suggested welding BUT !!!!!!!!!!!!
The reason the failures are more pronounced in the consumer segment is the front shocks and total suspension spring and vavling choice,,BY BRP!!!
The drivers are hitting the ground, or other objects and seeing them as an IMPACT to the shaft rahter than the SKID seeing it.!!!
Making the driveshaft strong enough to take a HIT longitudally is NOT the solution its a band aid.
True the shaft will not fail you,, the rest of the chassis, mounts bearings and bulkhead will!!!
FIX YOUR SHOCKS !! END YOUR SO CALLED SHAFT ISSUE !!!!!!
Not ONE snocorss sled broke a shaft period,,thats NOT ONE !!
They take much more abuse than any trail sled will,,That is IF the trail sled is not set up as a HARLEY RIGID CHOPPER !!!!
Gus
I have 8 snocross teams all using the same driveshaft all with same issue as the trail sled and NOT ONE PERIOD has had an issue with a shaft..!!
NOT ONE !!!!
I have solved the issue of the so called weak weld"" or inproper assembly theory as per BRP suggested welding BUT !!!!!!!!!!!!
The reason the failures are more pronounced in the consumer segment is the front shocks and total suspension spring and vavling choice,,BY BRP!!!
The drivers are hitting the ground, or other objects and seeing them as an IMPACT to the shaft rahter than the SKID seeing it.!!!
Making the driveshaft strong enough to take a HIT longitudally is NOT the solution its a band aid.
True the shaft will not fail you,, the rest of the chassis, mounts bearings and bulkhead will!!!
FIX YOUR SHOCKS !! END YOUR SO CALLED SHAFT ISSUE !!!!!!
Not ONE snocorss sled broke a shaft period,,thats NOT ONE !!
They take much more abuse than any trail sled will,,That is IF the trail sled is not set up as a HARLEY RIGID CHOPPER !!!!
Gus
From what I read you guys have handling issues to begine with, heres my take on it..
The fron ski springs are off by 50% on rate. I would suggest the 85/55 to start on fornt springs. Some that take the sway bar out will love 110-115's.
If you have the oem clicker on the rod "" shocks you need to have them valved stiffer from mid stroke to bottom out.
Center skid shock is in the same boat, go up to the Doo 135 for guys under 180lbs, 155 for the big boys..
As far as vavling goes on this arm I'd let it fly as is till you get a feel for the new found BALANCE the sled now has.
On the rear arm witha the long tracks I'd just slow the rebound and rearange the comp. stack a bit....and again springs of at least 1.5's if not the 1.78s'.
If any of you guys wanna try me I'd love to take a Whack'' at working with a couple DOO's rev or XP for a full season..See what we come up with..
At this time I valve and spring 60% of the racers on the Eastcoast for snocross. If this saesons results and the interest pan out I'll have 90% or more for next season..!
I'm trying to make these perform as close to our MX bikes as is possible.I still see even more room for improvment, Of the dozen trail set up I did last season for XP owners struggling with decelleration front end wallow, exxcessive lift on launch and just plain to much weight on the front that lifts the rear of the track and effectively shortens the wheelbase of the sled down to just the track sprockets to the spindles..LOL!!!! Thats when your not on the rear axle when on the gas..!!!LOL
Gus
gus.bohne@comcast.net
The fron ski springs are off by 50% on rate. I would suggest the 85/55 to start on fornt springs. Some that take the sway bar out will love 110-115's.
If you have the oem clicker on the rod "" shocks you need to have them valved stiffer from mid stroke to bottom out.
Center skid shock is in the same boat, go up to the Doo 135 for guys under 180lbs, 155 for the big boys..
As far as vavling goes on this arm I'd let it fly as is till you get a feel for the new found BALANCE the sled now has.
On the rear arm witha the long tracks I'd just slow the rebound and rearange the comp. stack a bit....and again springs of at least 1.5's if not the 1.78s'.
If any of you guys wanna try me I'd love to take a Whack'' at working with a couple DOO's rev or XP for a full season..See what we come up with..
At this time I valve and spring 60% of the racers on the Eastcoast for snocross. If this saesons results and the interest pan out I'll have 90% or more for next season..!
I'm trying to make these perform as close to our MX bikes as is possible.I still see even more room for improvment, Of the dozen trail set up I did last season for XP owners struggling with decelleration front end wallow, exxcessive lift on launch and just plain to much weight on the front that lifts the rear of the track and effectively shortens the wheelbase of the sled down to just the track sprockets to the spindles..LOL!!!! Thats when your not on the rear axle when on the gas..!!!LOL
Gus
gus.bohne@comcast.net
